GSSP
.30 Stingray
Posts: 109
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Post by GSSP on Apr 25, 2024 14:35:17 GMT -5
Have my eye on an older, NM"super"BH blue 44 Mag with 7-1/2" barrel and fluted cylinder in Bisley configuration. I LIKE the fluted cylinder look. All my Bisley's are shorter and SS (all Lipsey's), 3.75 to 5-1/2". What is involved in shortening the barrel? Cut from rear or front? Rethroat if from rear? New, "pinnned" front sight if from front? Refinish I assume? Reset the cylinder gap if too loose? This inquiring mind is curious...
Alan
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DutchV
.30 Stingray
Posts: 158
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Post by DutchV on Apr 25, 2024 20:57:03 GMT -5
If you're planning to do it yourself, cutting from the front and re-crowning is the easier way. Brownell's sells the tools but it might be cheaper to send it out if you're only gonna do one.
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Post by bigbore5 on Apr 25, 2024 20:59:40 GMT -5
It's easier to cut the front so you don't have to worry about indexing the front sight. That's the normal route.
I do have one that had both cut. The gap was horrible so Leonard Baity cut another thread to close it up and faced the barrel off for a .002" gap. He then cut the 7-1/2" barrel from the muzzle end to 5-1/2" when I decided after he'd already finished closing up the gap that I wanted a shorter barrel.
As if that all wasn't enough, I took the same gun back 4 months later for a 5-shot conversion.
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edk
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,114
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Post by edk on May 8, 2024 19:18:33 GMT -5
Are you satisfied with the cylinder gap and forcing cone? That might steer you one way or the other.
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Post by bradshaw on May 10, 2024 7:18:15 GMT -5
Have my eye on an older, NM"super"BH blue 44 Mag with 7-1/2" barrel and fluted cylinder in Bisley configuration. I LIKE the fluted cylinder look. All my Bisley's are shorter and SS (all Lipsey's), 3.75 to 5-1/2". What is involved in shortening the barrel? Cut from rear or front? Rethroat if from rear? New, "pinnned" front sight if from front? Refinish I assume? Reset the cylinder gap if too loose? This inquiring mind is curious... Alan ***** A checklist helps answer questions:* Target revolver via sandbag rest @ 25 yards. * Visual inspect FORCING CONE. It should be concentric to bore, smooth, short to moderate in depth. If the factory 11-degree included angle cone appears fine, do not recut it, even when setting the barrel back one thread. * Slug bore, 1) to detect any loose or tight spots, 2) to check groove diameter. A combination of loose and tight spots condemns accuracy. A compressing ring in the bore where BARREL SHOULDER meets FRAME requires fire lapping at minimum. Stainless resists fire lapping more than carbon steel. Other therapy requires barrel removal, with a minimum of setting back the barrel shoulder to hand tighten 10-12 degrees BTDC (Before Top Dead Center. * To shorten barrel, trim muzzle end. Unless the barrel is an untapered bull (silhouette) configuration, Super Blackhawk barrels are tapered. * When shortening barrel, now is the time to decide whether you want a changeable front sight, and whether the base will be screwed or soldered. * When a barrel with compression ring (from over-tightening) is removed, re-slug barrel to see if compression ring disappears. Also, hand tighten to note thread timing. David Bradshaw
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