I need help disassembling a s&w cylinder

[hounddogman]

Howdy Gentleman,  I am striping a S&W 69 cylinder to send it to 2Dogs and am having difficulty.  I'm familiar with the usual method for s&w's and the lefthand treads , but the 69 is a little different.  Instead of the common 1/4 inch or so knurled hollow ejecter rod the 69 is  a smaller diameter solid rod with a small knurled end cap with left hand treads. When I remove the knurled end of ejecter rod the crane slides off and I'm left with a small very smooth rod . I've put the rod in a padded vice and tried turning the cylinder clockwise ( to loosen a left hand tread ) and also very lightly tried counterclockwise but all that happens is the ejecter rod spinning in the padded vice.  Before I get all ham fisted with it, do these newer s&w rods disassemble differential ? Thanks 

[bradshaw]

Mar 5, 2024 0:29:49 GMT -5 hounddogman said:

Howdy Gentleman,  I am striping a S&W 69 cylinder to send it to 2Dogs and am having difficulty.  I'm familiar with the usual method for s&w's and the lefthand treads , but the 69 is a little different.  Instead of the common 1/4 inch or so knurled hollow ejecter rod the 69 is  a smaller diameter solid rod with a small knurled end cap with left hand treads. When I remove the knurled end of ejecter rod the crane slides off and I'm left with a small very smooth rod . I've put the rod in a padded vice and tried turning the cylinder clockwise ( to loosen a left hand tread ) and also very lightly tried counterclockwise but all that happens is the ejecter rod spinning in the padded vice.  Before I get all ham fisted with it, do these newer s&w rods disassemble differential ? Thanks View AttachmentView Attachment

*****

Perhaps it’s time to distinguish between “old model” and new production S&W revolvers! Better yet, to distinguish the earlier S&W’s, call em “traditional model,” or “traditional S&W."

Unfamiliar with mechanism you describe. It’s possible a “new,” cheaper assembly method is employed... Newer does not imply easier disassembly/reassembly. It’s especially annoying if new-design parts are are more susceptible to damage. Or, cannot be disassembled without damage.

From photo provided, it appears M-69 GAS RING is on the YOKE. Traditional S&W puts gas ring in cylinder.

Any modern design should be more easily serviced, not less.

The thin rod in the center is called the CYLINDER PIN. In the traditional design, the center pin pops into a hole in the STANDING BREECH to lock the YOKE from swinging out. A spring-loaded centering stud under the barrel steadies the ejector rod at the front----until the THUMB PIECE is pressed forward.

There is a technique to proper disassembly of a traditional S&W. When loosening or tightening the EJECTOR ROD, keep the cylinder on the yoke. Chamber at least two shells to support the EXTRACTOR before turning ejector rod. This is the way to prevent bending or damage.

Sounds like a different technique applies to the M-69. I’d call S&W service. Whatever you find out, please report back.
David Bradshaw

[jeffh]

I am not familiar with that vintage, and agree 100% with Mr. Bradshaw regarding cheaper-to-make. Many (most?) cool, new design features on guns tend toward that origin. Not a new trend by any means either. It usually equates to being more frustrating to tend to.

One thing I'd like to mention, and forgive me if you know this, is to have some spent cases in the chambers before applying any amount of torque to anything related to the ejector system, especially one which is not familiar to you. It's easy to bend the locator pins which align the ejector "star" with the chamber and can cause a major headache on your first reload when the elector star won't line up or return to its rest position.

Good luck, and I'd be interested to know what you find out.

Oddly, Rossi recently started doing DA revolvers again and they went backwards in time and reinstituted several older Smith design features we've lost in the past few years. This is not just a throwback due to using old equipment - it's not the same machinery that Rossi used on their previous models. Taurus makes them for Rossi now - to Rossi specs and they are different from the most recent Taurus revolvers, which incorporate many of the new changes to Smith revolvers.

It gets difficult o keep up when you're not buying several each year.

[paul105]

With the gun pointed away from you the "center pin" loosens by turning counter clockwise.

I chuck the center pin up in a cordless drill, put empties in charge holes and with the cyl pointing away from me (empty case heads toward you) I turn the cyl clock wise to loosen.

Here's a picture of the cylinder/yoke parts of my M69. Notice the "center pin" is still in the yoke (I didn't remove the knurled nut).




Paul

[hounddogman]

Thank you gentlemen. Mr. Bradshaw, you are a walking S&W dictionary, I am always learning from you. Jeff, thanks for the reminder about placing cases in the chambers. I did know that but it never hurts to be reminded. The 69 actually does not have those pins on the back of the extractor. Paul, thank you very much for the detailed description. So far this rod is not moving. I'll apply some penetration oil and try again tomorrow.
I believe this small diameter one piece ejecter rod/ cylinder pin is something s&w engineered special for the 69 and also applied to the newer k frame 357s .