aciera
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Post by aciera on Apr 11, 2023 7:29:54 GMT -5
Tongue-in-cheek mode activated. I have this picture in my head of a truck load of SRH's with a crate of hacksaw blades being driven to Alaska. Seriously, if my hands were bigger, mine would have stayed here. I remember when John was converting a 44 SRH to 45 and broke the barrel off. Got to board my flight
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aciera
.375 Atomic
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Post by aciera on Apr 14, 2023 1:57:03 GMT -5
aciera.... thank you for explanation. My picture of the M-69 barrel still seeks clarification. The Right Hand twist on Dan Wesson Arms barrels acts through "bullet torque" to tighten Right Hand threads. However, this doesn’t guarantee the barrel stays tight, as the same “bullet torque” simultaneously acts to loosen the muzzle nut. A cartridge with substantial “bullet torque,” in this case the .44 Magnum, slowly creeps the barrel into the frame.... to where the barrel closes the cylinder gap and pinches the cylinder. This is why silhouetters used Loctite----both red & blue----to secure barrel to frame. Of the S&W M-69, though I read the “barrel is keyed to the frame.” You clarify the shroud keys to frame. Sounds like the barrel acts as a cap screw to tighten the shroud against the frame... so that the barrel is tensioned similar to DWA, without a muzzle nut. Which begs the question: how to adjust cylinder gap? If the S&W M-69 barrel acts as a cap screw, a Right Hand twist should act to tighten right hand threads to frame. Perhaps, to distinguish between BARREL SHROUD and SLEEVED BARREL: * SHROUD----barrel not permanently joined to outer cover. * SLEEVE----barrel glued, soldered or otherwise permanent joined to outer cover. David Bradshaw The internal threaded barrel can be taken out and trimmed .001 or less at a time to get a very accurate and predictable barrel/cylinder gap. I would imagine the barrel would made .010 long and be screwed in till it hit the cylinder and the barrel sleeve to barrel shroud Gap measured. Say it is .008. Unscrewed and .008 taken off. Easy. Screwed in again. Tight or just .001 or .0005 fit. Take off .002. Now it will screw in to proper torque and there will be a gap. Measure it and you can set it to .0005…….easily. And if it is not right…….measured and marked and it may fit another gun. Now if you do it with a one piece barrel with lug………hard to sneak up on it….. And the clocking problem means if you get too big. Try and take off an entire thread and still clock it correctly. Meaning the barrel is now the wrong length. The two piece is ALWAYS clocked clocked correctly. And the torque issue with the length of thread means little because the stretch can be predicted. And the shroud itself must be crushed or the barred sleeve stretched. And they stretch by torque ……with good finish threads and a known lube and tests should be very predictable. I spent years in aerospace fasteners. We vibe tested millions and millions of cycles. Questions……please ask ……I sometimes don’t explain very clearly Bob Yeager
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aciera
.375 Atomic
Posts: 2,130
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Post by aciera on Apr 14, 2023 2:01:42 GMT -5
Tongue-in-cheek mode activated. I have this picture in my head of a truck load of SRH's with a crate of hacksaw blades being driven to Alaska. Seriously, if my hands were bigger, mine would have stayed here. I remember when John was converting a 44 SRH to 45 and broke the barrel off. Got to board my flight He freaked and I said I’d bore it it out and not touch the frame. Looks like a spring when you take out the barrel part. John asked if I could do that…….it’s what I do I told him. He knew what he wanted. I knew how to do it……..but…… He knew what to do. I miss the Ol Boy
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