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Post by matt56 on Jun 11, 2021 21:40:02 GMT -5
I use the Redding BR-30 with pistol chamber
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jgt
.327 Meteor
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Posts: 782
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Post by jgt on Jun 12, 2021 10:25:36 GMT -5
I use a Redding myself. I like the Lyman 55 and B & M. I also have a little Hornady that uses bushings that is good.
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jonjon
.240 Incinerator
Posts: 59
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Post by jonjon on Jun 30, 2021 17:58:56 GMT -5
I use a Redding and a Lyman55 both work well for me.
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Post by starmetal47 on Jun 30, 2021 18:01:07 GMT -5
I use Belding & Mull. Been using them for over 50 years.
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jonjon
.240 Incinerator
Posts: 59
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Post by jonjon on Jul 6, 2021 9:19:59 GMT -5
Got a Lyman 55 and a Redding (not sure which)
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Post by Quick Draw McGraw on Jul 29, 2021 12:40:51 GMT -5
I found an RCBS Uniflow at my LGS. Haven't used it yet, but I am eager to test it out.
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jeffh
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,606
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Post by jeffh on Jul 29, 2021 13:17:10 GMT -5
I found an RCBS Uniflow at my LGS. Haven't used it yet, but I am eager to test it out. I think you'll like it. I cut my teeth on a pair of Reddings, growing up and they are great. When I had to get my own stuff, I went with the Uniflow in '82, on a GI salary and am still using it. I don't know if I've ever had the larger-bored drum in it, because the largest case Ive loaded for is the '06 family, and few of those.
I grabbed a "vintage" Lyman measure in the mid-eighties and tried to use it, but I was happier staying with previously acquired habits using the RCBS, so I sold it. Nothing wrong with the Lyman, I just liked using the RCBS more. I've thrown charges as low as 1.2 grains of 231/HP38 very consistently, and it doesn't leak really fine powders, like H110 or 300MP. Log/stick powders may occasionally cause a "hitch," but if you rotate the drum with intent, it just chops one off and throws the next charge right on. If you stop and force it, then the next charge can be a very, very slightly bit heavier. I don't mean WHACK the handle when I say "with intent," and not like you may want to rack a balky lever-gun - more like "with confidence" - "click, click" - not "WAM,BAM." I know that sounds stupid, but you'll get a feel quickly.
One thing, which may be unique to Unique (bad pun intended), is that sometimes, when you first start throwing charges, the charge will keep getting heavier each throw for the first ten or so charges, and you have to keep playing with the volume. Once it settles in, it's fine - consistent.
I don't look at the graduations on the threaded stem - the "piston," so to speak. I use so few new charge weights these days that I know about where to put it. Here's a tip which will help you "walk it in" without a bunch of frustration: BE METHODICAL about this and it will work - if the charge is heavy, turn the piston back in a turn or two, based on your best guess. If the next charge is LIGHT, (which is what I'm shooting for with the first adjustment) then turn the piston the opposite way HALF of what you turned it the last time - even if you know it will be too much. Just go back and forth HALF in the opposite direction until you've "walked it in." I throw three charges after each adjustment, tossing the first two back into the hopper and the third goes onto the scale - a 505 that I got at the same time in '82 and am still using.
If you already have a preferred method, my apologies for being redundant, but maybe someone who hasn't done much of this could benefit.
That method works reasonably well with mortar rounds too, if you don't have time to wait for fire direction control. Still need a forward observer though.
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bamagreg
.327 Meteor
Woodstock, GA
Posts: 855
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Post by bamagreg on Jul 29, 2021 14:55:06 GMT -5
RCBS Uniflow with no close second... Second that. I bought a used one in 1981 and have been using it ever since.
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Post by Quick Draw McGraw on Jul 29, 2021 15:06:53 GMT -5
I found an RCBS Uniflow at my LGS. Haven't used it yet, but I am eager to test it out. I think you'll like it. I cut my teeth on a pair of Reddings, growing up and they are great. When I had to get my own stuff, I went with the Uniflow in '82, on a GI salary and am still using it. I don't know if I've ever had the larger-bored drum in it, because the largest case Ive loaded for is the '06 family, and few of those.
I grabbed a "vintage" Lyman measure in the mid-eighties and tried to use it, but I was happier staying with previously acquired habits using the RCBS, so I sold it. Nothing wrong with the Lyman, I just liked using the RCBS more. I've thrown charges as low as 1.2 grains of 231/HP38 very consistently, and it doesn't leak really fine powders, like H110 or 300MP. Log/stick powders may occasionally cause a "hitch," but if you rotate the drum with intent, it just chops one off and throws the next charge right on. If you stop and force it, then the next charge can be a very, very slightly bit heavier. I don't mean WHACK the handle when I say "with intent," and not like you may want to rack a balky lever-gun - more like "with confidence" - "click, click" - not "WAM,BAM." I know that sounds stupid, but you'll get a feel quickly.
One thing, which may be unique to Unique (bad pun intended), is that sometimes, when you first start throwing charges, the charge will keep getting heavier each throw for the first ten or so charges, and you have to keep playing with the volume. Once it settles in, it's fine - consistent.
I don't look at the graduations on the threaded stem - the "piston," so to speak. I use so few new charge weights these days that I know about where to put it. Here's a tip which will help you "walk it in" without a bunch of frustration: BE METHODICAL about this and it will work - if the charge is heavy, turn the piston back in a turn or two, based on your best guess. If the next charge is LIGHT, (which is what I'm shooting for with the first adjustment) then turn the piston the opposite way HALF of what you turned it the last time - even if you know it will be too much. Just go back and forth HALF in the opposite direction until you've "walked it in." I throw three charges after each adjustment, tossing the first two back into the hopper and the third goes onto the scale - a 505 that I got at the same time in '82 and am still using.
If you already have a preferred method, my apologies for being redundant, but maybe someone who hasn't done much of this could benefit.
That method works reasonably well with mortar rounds too, if you don't have time to wait for fire direction control. Still need a forward observer though. I really appreciate all of the advice. I will make note of it for my future use!
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Post by x101airborne on Jul 30, 2021 6:41:08 GMT -5
Go to a CVS or Wal-Mart or something. Get a 15 dollar beard trimmer and tape it to the powder measurer. Settles the powder between charges for large flake powder. Works like a charm.
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