Leather question

[Robster]

So my leather belt that I wear daily. I do nothing to care for it. It has lasted years and still looks great. It's a Hanks belt no frills so wasn't expensive therefore I don't even think about treating it. Even though it gets wet in the rain and sweat soaked in the summer.

I use Kennetrek waterproofing boot wax on my boots. I use extra virgin olive oil on my saddle.

BUT, my gunbelts and holsters are a little more expensive. I don't wear them every day, but they cost quite a bit more. Any recommendations on what to use on the gunbelt and holsters, if anything?

[magnumwheelman]

I also never put anything on my belts, & they are exposed to the same... I didn't think that you were supposed to condition them, or they stretch

if you were wanting to put anything on them... I'd think the same as the bridles & other horse related strapping

[Squatch]

I use Obenaufs LP on my EPS ranger belt and holster. Works great on any leather items.

[45MAN]

PECARD ANTIQUE LEATHER DRESSING WORKS GREAT ON GUN LEATHER. PECARD CHEMICAL COMPANY INC. IS IN GREEN BAY, WI, www.pecard.com WHEN I ACQUIRE GUN LEATHER, WHETHER NEW OR USED, I TREAT IT WITH PECARD's. I THINK JOHN TAFFIN PUT ME ON TO PECARD IN A GUN MAGAZINE ARTICLE.

[clintsfolly]

My belts get a coat of shoe polish about one a year.

[bradshaw]

Good leather deserves conservation. A good hide which is "over-brined"----my term for leather cooked to death in chemicals----will never have the character of the same hide properly tanned. Leather dries over time, making the fiber brittle. Numerous oils help preserve holster & belt leather. Over-brined leather cannot be water-molded to hold a resilient shape. The best holster makers are picky about their hides. Large commercial holster makers incorporate more of a hide, and faster tanning, than our best hand-makers.

Preparation
Leather exposed to mildew, mold, or seat should be washed in water, scrubbed in nooks & crannies with toothbrush and lambswool or soft cloth. In extreme cases wash in one part vinegar to 6-10 parts warm water. Hang to dry in direct sunlight to help kill mold, air, and dry. Treatment follows once leather is thoroughly dry.

A few leather treatments used by this shooter over the years
* NEATSFOOT OIL----rendered from cattle. Other animal products have been used, from heated deer fat to “bear grease.” I’ve used most of em. Sno-Seal is said to contain beeswax; don’t know which oil base. Neatsfoot oil darkens leather and makes it supple. Neatsfoot oil comes in PURE and PRIME; my preference is a for pure. I avoid neatsfoot on water molded holsters, as it softens.

* SNO-SEAL----said to be made with beeswax. Don’t know oil base.

* MINK OIL----said to be made from mink fat.

* PECARD LEATHER DRESSING----don’t know ingredients. Texture similar to but thicker than Vaseline, a petroleum product. Whatever its base, Pecard’s shares with the above animal products a low resistance to mildew in the Deep South.

More mildew resistant
* BEESWAX & MINERAL OIL----a mixture made by shaving pure beeswax into heated, clear mineral oil. Applied to holsters and belts with lambswool or cotton flannel. Proportion of beeswax adjusted to type of leather, with a thicker mix for water-molded scabbards, thinner for latigo, boots & shoes. This was done as an experiment to fine a treatment better resistant to rapacious mold and mildew of hot, humid environments. Beeswax & mineral oil has basically replaced my use of other treatments, so far with excellent results.
David Bradshaw

[Robster]

Thanks for all the replies!!

I wasn't sure if anyone even did anything for their belts and holsters. I appreciate all the input

[Frank V]

I am very careful about putting anything on my holsters I don't want them to stretch. I usually wipe them with a damp cloth & I mean just damp. Belts, I've never treated with anything.

[junebug]

Something to replace the moisture they lose, don't want the leather drying out to much and cracking. Been known to wax them with Johnsons paste wax, or snow seal, museums use Renaissance Wax to preserve leather and other things. Never had one stretch yet.

[bula]

I've used Sno-Seal for 45 yrs on boots, sheaths, holsters. They get a good coating when new but very seldom after that. When the need is perceived ? When I know I'm gonna be in rain or wet snow for a few days, etc.. Sno-Seal a wax based item, not oil. I don't see that it softens or loosens the leather. We need Doc's input here, though I don't think he'll agree with me. Our holster makers, please weigh in.