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Post by ezekiel38 on Nov 29, 2019 20:43:15 GMT -5
A friend of mine showed me a early 586 6" that is nickel plated. The revolver has had the snot shot out of it, and the nickel is cloudy on the barrel rib. The cylinder has all kinds of powder residue on it, baked on.
What is a good polish/cleaner for a nickel gun? Something that won't hurt the surface.
Action is in excellent condition and the sideplate has never been removed.
Appreciate your help on this.
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Post by bradshaw on Nov 30, 2019 10:27:12 GMT -5
A friend of mine showed me a early 586 6" that is nickel plated. The revolver has had the snot shot out of it, and the nickel is cloudy on the barrel rib. The cylinder has all kinds of powder residue on it, baked on. What is a good polish/cleaner for a nickel gun? Something that won't hurt the surface. Action is in excellent condition and the sideplate has never been removed. Appreciate your help on this. ***** An antique car restorer might be of help. If the Ruger’s were around, we could ask the two Bill’s, both intimate in the history and conservation of old cars. Former fireman Andy Swift in Maine became a master of firetruck restoration, doing six trucks for Bill Ruger, Jr., including a 1924 American LaFrance Bill bought cheap at age 15. There resides at Owl’s Head Museum in Maine one of the great fire trucks, a transition piece, the trailer/boiler built for horse pull, the tractor with gasoline motor, owned by Bill Ruger, Jr., immaculately restored by Andy Swift. This truck gleams nickel and chrome. You might call the Owl’s Head Transportation Museum, Owl’s Head, Maine (tel. 207-592-4418), and ask to speak with the curator. As with many things mechanical, nickel plating starts with thorough preparation. I grew up under the caution to not use ammonia dope bore cleaner on nickel plate, as it would peel the plating. Didn’t stop me from using Hoppe’s #9 on a nickel plated Colt or Smith & Wesson. Never left it to sit, wiping the gun within minutes, following with the old Garcia Silicote Gun & Reel Cloth, or oil wipedown. Metal polishes, some of which contain ammonia, probably would clean off powder fowling and oxidation, although they may scratch polished nickel. Not a recommendation, as I haven’t tried it and would not without research. I wipe nickel with cotton flannel, the same natural fiber used on bluing. I don’t use synthetic fabrics on a firearm finish, nor in the bore. Out of the old superstition I may be more careful cleaning a nickel plated firearm than a blue. Proper nickel is much more weather and sweat resistant than bluing, easy to demonstrate in the humid South David Bradshaw |
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Post by ezekiel38 on Nov 30, 2019 15:07:04 GMT -5
Thank you David, my farmer friend also purchased an American LaFrance Firetruck, built in the 50s. Hauls his grandkids in the local town celebration parades. I will mention the info gleaned from your post to my friend. BTW Happy Holiday Season to you.
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bamagreg
.327 Meteor
Woodstock, GA
Posts: 859
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Post by bamagreg on Dec 1, 2019 6:12:23 GMT -5
It sounds like some of the nickel plating is already missing. Nickel plating is fairly delicate. The first step in the nickel plating process is to plate the surface in copper. This gives a good conductive surface for the nickel to bond to (thus the reason you don’t use copper solvent on a nickel gun)
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Post by bradshaw on Dec 1, 2019 11:26:28 GMT -5
It sounds like some of the nickel plating is already missing. Nickel plating is fairly delicate. The first step in the nickel plating process is to plate the surface in copper. This gives a good conductive surface for the nickel to bond to (thus the reason you don’t use copper solvent on a nickel gun) ***** Good explaination way to avoid ammonia dope. I’ve cleaned nickel Pythons and nickel 29’s with Hoppes, but never let the stuff soak long. As ammonia dopes go, Hoppe’s #9 is mild. Haven’t experienced peeling from cylinder face of a Python or M-29, I’m sure it could happen. Mil spec hard chrome didn’t last at all in the forcing cone of an SRM .357 Maximum, flecking within the first six shots. A review of car restoration reveals the expertise required to do proper nickel plating. Before & after photos are welcome. David Bradshaw |
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Post by ezekiel38 on Dec 3, 2019 12:24:17 GMT -5
I'll have to take a pic, I used Jeweler's rouge and it buffed out beautifully. Doesn't look like the same 357 and no nickel lift. Thanks for all the leads.
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Post by bradshaw on Dec 3, 2019 16:35:01 GMT -5
I'll have to take a pic, I used Jeweler's rouge and it buffed out beautifully. Doesn't look like the same 357 and no nickel lift. Thanks for all the leads. ***** Good news. Used a brass rod with wood handle as a gimlet for priming dynamite in years gone by. Similar to the old Marbles cleaning rods, but pointed. Nitroglycerine dynamite, variously called ditching dynamite, was made with nitric acid and sulphuric acid, exceedingly corrosive. A knife used to cut the dynamite rusts in no time. Brass gimlets quickly tarnish if not wiped off. Nitro dynamite instantly polishes brass. Non-nitro dynamites made with ammonia isn’t far behind. (This is not a recommendation to use nitroglycerine as a stain remover or to polish your silver.) I bought a nickel M-29 8-3/8” to scope to keep a blued 8-3/8” company. Deer have fallen to that revolver scoped with Leupold LER 4x28mm, also the factory red ramp/white outline irons; it currently shoots the irons. Proper S&E nickel is a elegant, classy finish, and far better against a hot rain than bluing. David Bradshaw |
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