Does anybody know....................?

[bobwright]

I have a Ruger New Model Flat Top .44 Special. My gun came with an awful looking stainless steel hammer. I swapped it out for a blued hammer from a New Model Blackhawk. Looked better, but the hammer nose did not seat against the frame of the gun.

Close examination shows that this model has the "thick" transfer bar. I tried to relieve the "step" to allow the hammer to fully seat against the frame, but this doesn't work. Why?

The SS hammer has a deeper concave curved section just above the rounded area around the pivot pin. Tit is this area that binds against the transfer bar.

So, my question is this: Will the thin transfer bar and older New Model hammer interchange with a Flat Top Blackhawk?

Bob Wright

[prisedefer]

Sooner or later a tweaker and a swapper will come to a place where no man has gone before. We hope you'll be able to get a message back to us. Good Luck.

[lws]

Bob
Mine has the thin transfer bar.

[junebug]

Maybe reverse engineer it . Remove the transfer bar and see if it goes all the way down and work from there. I have one of the Flattops and it has the raised portion on the tip of the transfer bar also. Also have a super hammer I want to install so waiting for an answer with you.Would like to change the grip frame also.

[wildcatter]

I have not run into this Bob but when I want something my way I dive in with baby steps, then if I go to far with things, I only have small available parts to replace.

First I would remove the transfer bar and see if the hammer now functions properly without it, with the doner hammer. 

If there is no more interference and the hammer rest properly against the frame I would try the thin transfer bar with it. If all looks good and functions smoothly,

I next would remove the cylinder and with the trigger pulled back and the hammer fully resting forward, I would take note of firing pin protrusion.

If all is good, I would force the hammer forward with the trigger still pulled, then let off the trigger while still forcing the hammer against the frame, if the transfer bar falls free with pressure against the frame, you know the cutout for the transfer bar has plenty of clearance.

I point this out about clearance because changing hammers and getting some to work has caused me to need to hone the face of the trigger that rest against the frame in order to get enough protrusion of the firing pin to get good ignition. I have no reservations honing the face of the hammer a few thousands even .100", but have never had yo go that extreme. 

This aint an exacting science but has worked for me, I would not try and machine the notch in the hammer to relieve compression of the transfer bar, but if needed to gain more travel to the firing pin have no reservations reducing the hammer face that rest against the frame to get it.

Let us know what route you took, and how it all works out, like I say, when I decide I want something I always find a way to get it, might even settle for having the stainless hamer blued, I didn't like my Stainless Finish on my DW Valor V-BOB 6 years ago so I had Dave Severns do his hard hat treatment,, even better than blued steel! Even after daily carry the past 6 years, still looks like the day I got it back. Just another option, and stays original, except you have a blued trigger that will never show wear from use or thumbing like blued steel does, and will.

[junebug]

Bob
Have you figured out anything for a fix yet? Have a super hammer I want to put in my Flat Top also.

[lws]

I put SBH hammers on both my NM flat tops as well as the thin transfer bars.

[matt56]

Interesting thread. I'd love to see pics.  My new model flat top is in my profile pic 

[Sarge]

Heat to about 700 degrees (or until the stainless turns blue) and quench in dirty oil, repeat twice and it will look like this. This hammer and trigger surface hardened to the point contact surfaces barely discolored, much less wore.