Joe S.
.401 Bobcat
Posts: 2,517
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Post by Joe S. on Sept 29, 2019 16:50:17 GMT -5
Did a little more shooting with the 9.5” Liberty Single Six today. Yesterday i was shooting it and the bolt plunger broke on the hammer so i installed another one last night. While i had it apart i replaced the stock trigger return spring with a lighter Wolff model. That made a huge difference on this gun!! I sighted it in a couple weeks ago on steel but wanted to get it dialed in, so i started at 20. Couple clicks and had it on. Here is 6 shots at 20. We then moved back to 50 and I shot this group. Clicked left a couple clicks and tried again. Clicked a couple more clicks and got it right. Just didn’t get a pic. I believe i’ll take this one squirrel hunting this year. All shots off a Bog Pod.
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KRal
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,029
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Post by KRal on Sept 30, 2019 19:31:36 GMT -5
I had a 9.5” single six several years ago. Had it topped with a 2x tasco - it took a truck load of squirrels during its time with me. Let a guy talk me into a trade for a Winchester 9422; sometimes I still miss that single six.
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Post by 45MAN on Sept 30, 2019 19:37:34 GMT -5
Joe S.: HOW ARE YOU HOLDING THE FF ONTO THE GUN? I HAVE A 9 1/2 INCH 22MAG/22LR, IT IS A SHOOTING SON OF A B.... IN 22 MAG WITH OPEN SIGHTS (FACTORY REAR AND A 2 DOGS FRONT). MAY I SUGGEST YOU INVEST IN A BELT MOUNTAIN BASE PIN, YOU MAY JUST SHRINK THOSE GROUPS.
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Joe S.
.401 Bobcat
Posts: 2,517
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Post by Joe S. on Sept 30, 2019 20:29:24 GMT -5
I had a 9.5” single six several years ago. Had it topped with a 2x tasco - it took a truck load of squirrels during its time with me. Let a guy talk me into a trade for a Winchester 9422; sometimes I still miss that single six. I like the 9422, but that would be a tough choice. Joe S.: HOW ARE YOU HOLDING THE FF ONTO THE GUN? I HAVE A 9 1/2 INCH 22MAG/22LR, IT IS A SHOOTING SON OF A B.... IN 22 MAG WITH OPEN SIGHTS (FACTORY REAR AND A 2 DOGS FRONT). MAY I SUGGEST YOU INVEST IN A BELT MOUNTAIN BASE PIN, YOU MAY JUST SHRINK THOSE GROUPS. I am slowly replacing all my base pins with Belt My units. I really like them. The mount is made by Raptor Engineering. I like it. But I had it on a 357 Max and sheared the bolt after a few rounds. Raptor Eng says I installed it wrong. Maybe. But it cost $50 to get the screw removed, so I decided not to chance it again. I am glad I put it on the S6 now. www.raptor-eng.com
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Sept 30, 2019 23:43:54 GMT -5
I've used the RE mount for 5 separate RBH and a pair of FA 83's. They are a nice small low profile mount. That said, they tend to allow a small amount of lateral play which I wouldn't allow on a rifle and won't allow on a revolver.
First I cut fancy high quality shims from a Pepsi can (the best quality) and put the shims on either side of the "boss" that sticks into the slot for the rear sight. After getting the shims the right size, the lateral play was removed. My shooting partner is an awesome welder and said all he needed to do was add more aluminum on the front of the "boss" (my wording for the rectangle chunk of aluminum), file to fit, and drill a hole in the added aluminum for the original pin for the rear sight. What do you know, that was the ticket.
Like I believe Joe is pointing out, using just the one screw for the mount/red dot isn't too rugged. Even doing the shim trick isn't much stronger though it takes out the play. The added aluminum and pin is as strong as I could hope for and no lateral play.
We found that the Flat Top RE mount had barely enough meat to just drill a hole and use the pin the way it was delivered, but a standard RBH had to have metal added. Yeah, it's a little trouble to do and you need someone who knows aluminum, but worthwhile if you are as anal as I am.
Sorry for the long post and highjack.
BTW, the RE FA83 mount is attached with 3 screws, I seem to remember, and is strong. It is also less expensive than the one FA sells.
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Post by 45MAN on Oct 1, 2019 6:25:26 GMT -5
THE WEIGAND MINNY TINNY WORKS REAL GOOD WITH THE FAST FIRE AND SIMILAR RED DOTS, BUT IT IS TOO SHORT FOR, AND NOT RECOMMENDED FOR, SCOPES OR TUBE RED DOTS.
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Joe S.
.401 Bobcat
Posts: 2,517
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Post by Joe S. on Oct 1, 2019 6:36:06 GMT -5
I wish they would add a cross pin hole. That would be the ticket. I've used the RE mount for 5 separate RBH and a pair of FA 83's. They are a nice small low profile mount. That said, they tend to allow a small amount of lateral play which I wouldn't allow on a rifle and won't allow on a revolver. First I cut fancy high quality shims from a Pepsi can (the best quality) and put the shims on either side of the "boss" that sticks into the slot for the rear sight. After getting the shims the right size, the lateral play was removed. My shooting partner is an awesome welder and said all he needed to do was add more aluminum on the front of the "boss" (my wording for the rectangle chunk of aluminum), file to fit, and drill a hole in the added aluminum for the original pin for the rear sight. What do you know, that was the ticket. Like I believe Joe is pointing out, using just the one screw for the mount/red dot isn't too rugged. Even doing the shim trick isn't much stronger though it takes out the play. The added aluminum and pin is as strong as I could hope for and no lateral play. We found that the Flat Top RE mount had barely enough meat to just drill a hole and use the pin the way it was delivered, but a standard RBH had to have metal added. Yeah, it's a little trouble to do and you need someone who knows aluminum, but worthwhile if you are as anal as I am. Sorry for the long post and highjack. BTW, the RE FA83 mount is attached with 3 screws, I seem to remember, and is strong. It is also less expensive than the one FA sells.
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Post by bradshaw on Oct 1, 2019 18:48:43 GMT -5
dhd.... if this method hasn’t been tried for a small base to fit the Ruger rear sight trough, a base which clamped between the frame’s rear sight step and the sight pin, might provide a secure mount for small, lightweight sights. The pin on which the Ruger rear sight pivots would have to be replaced with stronger rod, such as drill steel. A drawl bolt at the rear of the base would pull against the sight pin. A replacement elevation screw would clamp the base to the frame. Lateral; play should be eliminated by hand fitting the boss in the trough. Looseness turns inertia into a slide hammer.
The countersink in a Freedom Arms topstrap acts as a great recoil shoulder, so base screws have no job but to clamp.Leupold and Redfield recognized decades ago the importance of making a base to snug against the step in the frame. Without the buttstock, handgun recoil is more vicious than rifle recoil. With a scope base with rings, barrel whip of the sixgun has the effect of pulling the rear of the topstrap down, away from the scope; while the objective tries to smack the barrel. That’s why the heavier the scope, the harder it is to hold. David Bradshaw
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Oct 4, 2019 8:06:36 GMT -5
Joe,
I emailed him asking if he could leave more material for fitting, but never recieved a reply. This was a while back when he was just sellimg them on Ruger Forum. I'm not knocking his product at all, but 2 attachment points is better than 1. I never shot any of the revolvers back to back (before and after modifying the mount), but even a small amount of play shows I think... Maybe I "think" too much.
I would have just stayed with my high quality shim modification if I didn't have access to an artist in metal that is just as anal as I am.
David, As we drilled the hole for the pin using the cylinder frame as a guide, the hole isnt exactly straight. We drilled a little on one side then finished up from the other. The relatively soft Ruger pin has a somewhat interference fit. It can be driven out easily, but cannot walk out from recoil. We didn't want to drive a hardened pin through the hole as it's not exactly straight. When he added more aluminum, it invariably made the boss fatter so we also had the advantage of fitting the mount to the slot. Seems like a lot of work, but he is fast (and good) and aluminum fly's off of a sharp file. I believe we spent more time drilling the hole than welding and filing. We didn't want to wallow out the hole for the pin is why.
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Post by leadhound on Oct 9, 2019 2:32:19 GMT -5
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Post by Big Bore on Oct 9, 2019 4:50:04 GMT -5
I had the same problem with my raptor engineering mount coming loose on my SBHH in 41. Finally gave up and ordered the smal mount from Wiegand which still only mounts technically with one screw, but has an added 'set' screw to level the sight and add a bit of security to it. Shooting it today for the first time with the Wiegand. Oh, and I switched to green loctite at the suggestion of a friend. Supposed to be stronger than blue but still removable.
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Post by bradshaw on Oct 9, 2019 6:28:44 GMT -5
dhd, randym.... a non-gunsmith option to fit a “sight screw mount” might be too glue the base to Ruger sight slot. Loctite 380 is a very strong member of the Loctite family. A 2-part epoxy should also work. Preparation is nine-tenths of the job. I would clean surfaces with acetone or lacquer thinner. Providing a close fit, Loctite 380 should hold. 2-part epoxy would be stronger if there is gap-o-sis between parts. Heat from butane lighter or small torch is necessary to soften bond for separation. Shotgun ribs have been repaired with Loctite 380. In conjunction with clamping action of elevation screw, one of these adhesives should make for a secure mount. David Bradshaw
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Joe S.
.401 Bobcat
Posts: 2,517
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Post by Joe S. on Oct 9, 2019 6:33:00 GMT -5
Depending on where that extra hole is drilled, that wouldn’t be too bad. Just wonder if being steel is too much weight. I guess if it doesn’t have ant play it would be fine.
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Post by Big Bore on Oct 9, 2019 7:34:21 GMT -5
dhd, randym.... a non-gunsmith option to fit a “sight screw mount” might be too glue the base to Ruger sight slot. Loctite 380 is a very strong member of the Loctite family. A 2-part epoxy should also work. Preparation is nine-tenths of the job. I would clean surfaces with acetone or lacquer thinner. Providing a close fit, Loctite 380 should hold. 2-part epoxy would be stronger if there is gap-sis between parts. Heat from butane lighter or small torch is necessary to soften bond for separation. Shotgun ribs have been repaired with Loctite 380. In conjunction with clamping action of elevation screw, one of these adhesives should make for a secure mount. David Bradshaw Thank you for the tip. If the Weigand doesn't hold, I will try this.
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