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Post by hounddogman on Mar 17, 2023 10:43:42 GMT -5
I guess I should be a little more specific with my questions. Both of these rifles have a gas system that is supposed to be dangerous to shoot lead though. I was wondering if powder coating could be used to prevent lead buildup in the gas system. Particularly the 44 carbine, I dislike having to use jacketed bullets exclusively because I'm cheap. Contender, thank you for the tip about quenching after powder coating. I would not have thought about that.
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Post by boolitdesigner on Mar 17, 2023 11:31:01 GMT -5
Both of these rifles have a gas system that is supposed to be dangerous to shoot lead though. Lead, specifically bare lubed cast bullets can be used in about everything up to really serious pressures provided you stick to certain rules and use them properly. I've BTDT (with these two rifles), but if you follow what most everyone does right now, you won't get there.
I dislike having to use jacketed bullets exclusively because I'm cheap. Me too! But, I learned what to do and what not to do. It's up to you what you learn... and from who plus the time it takes for you to learn it. I shoot semi-auto 308 rifles, in semi-auto mode at practically full power with lead bullets (yea, they expand and produce hunting levels of expansion and kills). You have to decide for yourself and put in the effort to do so.
I don't do powder coat, so that might be another way to do the same as I do.... provided someone works out the heat treat procedure and expansion characteristics for it. Good luck to them on that.
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Post by sixshot on Mar 17, 2023 12:18:37 GMT -5
I have since switched to Smokes4320 powders for coating, they do a little bit better job of coating & he offering lots of different colors. I still have Harbor Freight on the shelf but Red is about the only color that works very well. I have black, purple, blue & clear from Smokes4320. He advertises on Castboolitsforum.
Dick
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Post by bula on Mar 17, 2023 12:20:35 GMT -5
Something close to John Deere green ? Had to ask..
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 17, 2023 18:24:07 GMT -5
Eastwood clear has been a winner for me. After several members coached me about getting as much excess powder off as possible, my bullets look great. I just pour them on a tray lined with nonstick parchment paper. The ones that stick together a bit are easily separated. The penta hollowpoints of mp molds seem to hold excess powder more than the other pins. I think it's because of the sharp geometry of the angles.
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Post by sixshot on Mar 17, 2023 19:08:41 GMT -5
The John Deere Green just isn't worth the effort, you can see how bad they shoot for Lee Martin..... just send them up here to Ideehooee & I'll dispose of them properly! If you are coating HP's & you don't give them a few good bounces you will end up with the noses full of powder & it will just act like a solid, because it is. Bounce those babies!
Dick
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Post by contender on Mar 17, 2023 22:30:22 GMT -5
"Something close to John Deere green ? Had to ask."
Actually, I do believe he has one called JD green.
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gnappi
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,404
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Post by gnappi on Mar 18, 2023 9:39:29 GMT -5
I guess I should be a little more specific with my questions. Both of these rifles have a gas system that is supposed to be dangerous to shoot lead though. I was wondering if powder coating could be used to prevent lead buildup in the gas system. Particularly the 44 carbine, I dislike having to use jacketed bullets exclusively because I'm cheap. Contender, thank you for the tip about quenching after powder coating. I would not have thought about that. I've been powder coating going on three years now not only because I'm chea... ahem value conscious, I prefer it because my seat die stays clean, my Star sizers are clean, I do not have waxy sticky messy bullets in a bin, don't have to use the Star heater, or buy and stock wax lube and of course no bore leading. But the seat die issue is a biggie because my seat depth STAYS put, not so with wax (even the hardest) based lube. As far as leading goes, if the coated bullets survive the smash test, AND your neck expanding die is setup correctly AND it doesn't shave coating off exposing bare lead, there will not be leading of the bore. I water quench but haven't found it changes my smash test, so I do it mainly to not have to handle hot bullets around my workspace after they're coated.
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gnappi
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,404
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Post by gnappi on Mar 18, 2023 9:58:08 GMT -5
I guess I should be a little more specific with my questions. Both of these rifles have a gas system that is supposed to be dangerous to shoot lead though. I was wondering if powder coating could be used to prevent lead buildup in the gas system. Particularly the 44 carbine, I dislike having to use jacketed bullets exclusively because I'm cheap. Contender, thank you for the tip about quenching after powder coating. I would not have thought about that. PS, regarding PC'd bullet sizing. I have limited bench space, and cast several calibers and I REALLY HATED heating the sizer up to change sizing dies and punches. Over the years acquired three star sizers and rather than diddle with removing dies, it was easier to mount all three. That used up excessive bench space to mount all three, that or mount / unmount them all individually on my Star heater. Powder coating let me: A. Buy powder coating specific dies for my sizers from lathesmith on castboolits. They're shorter as they do not have lube holes and the sizing operation is far less strenuous. B. Mount the sizers in one space on a custom plate very close together not needing to purge the sizers of lube. C. Color bullets differently based on weight. This is pretty handy when I cast three or more weights of the same caliber. Sizer plate is setup for .38, .40, and .45. No more diddling around or loss of bench space. There isn't enough money to make me go back to wax based lubes.
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Post by bearskinner on Mar 18, 2023 10:05:21 GMT -5
The region I live in ( NW Rainforest) is cooler than most and a high humidity. I found I can’t create a lot of dry static to get powder to coat bullets, especially on rainy or snowy days. I use the wet method. It basically creates a paint coating of powder, that coats very evenly under my conditions. An added plus of the wet shake method, I can lightly coat hollow points, that don’t add any powder to the inside of the HP or penta point. It just coats the outside, where it’s needed for the rifling, and I Always water drop right out of the oven. My .375’s and .300’s are gas checked, but with the powder coating, I have no issues shooting them at well over 2000-2400FPS.
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gnappi
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,404
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Post by gnappi on Mar 18, 2023 10:31:26 GMT -5
The region I live in ( NW Rainforest) is cooler than most and a high humidity. I found I can’t create a lot of dry static to get powder to coat bullets, especially on rainy or snowy days. I use the wet method. It basically creates a paint coating of powder, that coats very evenly under my conditions. An added plus of the wet shake method, I can lightly coat hollow points, that don’t add any powder to the inside of the HP or penta point. It just coats the outside, where it’s needed for the rifling, and I Always water drop right out of the oven. My .375’s and .300’s are gas checked, but with the powder coating, I have no issues shooting them at well over 2000-2400FPS. Wet shake? I haven't heard that one, but I'm looking into it. Had you tried the black airsoft BB's in the dry shake container? It's really humid here in south Florida and the BB's solved the issue.
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Post by bearskinner on Mar 18, 2023 12:16:22 GMT -5
The wet method takes 20 seconds and covers well. It’s quick, easy and simple. Fill the (1 gallon bucket) bottom with bullets, 1/2 spoon of powder, whatever desired color. Add a tiny cap of acetone, pop on the lid, swirl 5 times, and shake once, swirl a couple more. Pop off the lid, ( don’t sniff, it’s strong!) blow in the bucket a couple times, you can watch the wet shiny, turn dull and dry in seconds. Pour onto non stick foil, 12 minutes in the toaster oven, water drop when they come out. That sizzle is a great sound to hear.
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Post by bearskinner on Mar 18, 2023 12:30:31 GMT -5
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gnappi
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Post by gnappi on Mar 18, 2023 13:02:23 GMT -5
The wet method takes 20 seconds and covers well. It’s quick, easy and simple. Fill the (1 gallon bucket) bottom with bullets, 1/2 spoon of powder, whatever desired color. Add a tiny cap of acetone, pop on the lid, swirl 5 times, and shake once, swirl a couple more. Pop off the lid, ( don’t sniff, it’s strong!) blow in the bucket a couple times, you can watch the wet shiny, turn dull and dry in seconds. Pour onto non stick foil, 12 minutes in the toaster oven, water drop when they come out. That sizzle is a great sound to hear. Thanks, I watched a video on it and the next lot I do I'll try wet!
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gnappi
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Post by gnappi on Mar 18, 2023 15:32:01 GMT -5
Bearskinner, what paint are you using?
OK, I couldn't wait... I needed some PC'd bullets to load for a new .357 so I gave it a try.
I took several handfuls of bullets cast in the fall last year and used a known powder (Dupont Arctic blue) that coats great the first time with the shake and bake method. I Used about a half teaspoon of powder and a cap of acetone. Then shook and the results looked very thin, but I baked them anyway @ ~450 20 minutes on my silicone PC bullet baking mat, water quenched and like the video they came out thinly coated and they definitely needed a second coat.
Maybe this Dupont or Govesan stuff isn't good for this method?
The second coat I used another known good powder in shake and bake (Govesan Cyan) and it coated thickly enough in the container that they stuck together in somewhat of a gloppy mess. I used the same bake time and temperature and the end result is not very smooth.
I did another second coat with the Dupont and they came out a lot better though I'd like a single coat solution.
Both the Arctic blue and cyan do not NEED sizing when made using shake and bake but I do it anyway in case there are rough spots. But these two formulations need sizing after wet coating as they're pretty lumpy.
Overall it's easier than handling the dry powder coated bullets so I'll try small lots varying the amount of powder and acetone measuring them out for repeatability and see what happens.
I have a lot of paint brands :-)
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