awp101
.401 Bobcat
TANSTAAFL
Posts: 2,660
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Post by awp101 on Apr 24, 2018 8:02:17 GMT -5
Sorry, slipped into semi-auto rifle terminology for a moment there. Fire Control Group aka hammer, trigger and sear or in this case, hammer and trigger.
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Post by bradshaw on Apr 24, 2018 8:47:29 GMT -5
FCG= Fire Control Group; in this case, the hammer and trigger, primarily. ***** Thanks for the clarification. And, awp101, noting a”slippage.” Indeed, I believe "Fire Control Group” does not belong in reference to revolvers. Certainly not to LOCKWORK which traces its ancestry to Sam Colt’s 1836 Paterson. FCG doesn’t apply to the MODULAR trigger assembly of Ruger’s double action revolvers----which hammer is not part of the “group.” Nor apply to the large frame Dan wesson, in which the hammer is part of the trigger module. It sounds like government gobbledegook. In my case, in some familiarity with revolvers, the abbreviation left me confused. “Fire Control Group” makes perfect sense for some technologies; not revolvers. Now, I have to go throw lead, David Bradshaw
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awp101
.401 Bobcat
TANSTAAFL
Posts: 2,660
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Post by awp101 on Apr 26, 2018 19:37:16 GMT -5
Shims and springs ordered. In for a penny, in for a bunch of rolls of pennies...
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gregs
.30 Stingray
Posts: 457
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Post by gregs on Apr 30, 2018 15:14:09 GMT -5
www.gunsprings.com/RUGER/GP-100/cID3/mID52/dID233www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/ruger/revolvers-ruger/gp100?page=6Hammer and trigger shims, ho-made or check power custom/b's Having performed a Kitchen Table trigger job on two of them, a few observations. I used two different spring packs, one I can't remember and the other was Wolff. The one I can't remember was also light and had problems with mag primers until i shimmed the hammer. Go with a Wolff full kit. The hammer and sear angles are fine from the factory, break edges, lightly relieve and polish with a white stone. I didn't have to reduce the hammer hook/dog on the 100 but the SRH I reduced (same trigger design). The biggest problem with the triggers is getting smooth consistant trigger reset due to the stamped trigger plunger. Be fore warned, the trigger plunger spring can evaporate at will. You might want to have an extra on hand. Popsicle sticks, 600+ sand paper, jb bore paste and polish is your friend while cleaning up burrs in the trigger housing and spring tunnel of the plunger. You may have to finesse the reset angle slightly if having problems. A quality stainless steel gun lube FP10 or TriFlo is recommended
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Paden
.375 Atomic
Lower Goldstream Creek
Posts: 1,132
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Post by Paden on May 1, 2018 0:13:37 GMT -5
It sounds like government gobbledegook. Fire Control Group: a group of Signal Corpsmen, who upon landing on a beachhead, directed fire from the offshore guns. Not bastardized to refer to mechanical trigger components until assemble-your-own ticky-tacky black plastic guns became popular and some marketing ninja needed a cooler phrase than "trigger group".
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awp101
.401 Bobcat
TANSTAAFL
Posts: 2,660
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Post by awp101 on May 6, 2018 11:06:37 GMT -5
No pics or videos but I did tear into it yesterday afternoon. I did some light polishing with some oiled 1500 grit wet/dry automotive sandpaper*, oiled the pivot points and put a very light coat of RIG on the contact points. I also installed a 10# trigger return spring, a 12# mainspring and a .003" shim on each side of the hammer.
The only measurable I have is the SA pull which dropped from 5# to a consistent 3.5#. The DA pull is still heavier than my Wheeler trigger pull gauge (8# max IIRC) but it seems to feel smoother. I know that's a very subjective thing and it may simply be a placebo effect from knowing I did something. I actually forgot the shims the first time I reassembled it but I didn't really feel any difference once I put them in several hours later. It may not have needed them anyway so if they'll work on the SP I may try them there to see if there's a difference.
I can say this wasn't a difficult task. I probably could have polished more than I did but I was concerned with going too far and Ruger won't sell the hammer and trigger to mere mortals so I went very conservative. OTOH as it wears from shooting it should only get better and last that much longer.
*The body shop was thoughtful enough to leave a sheet in the bed of my truck after they repaired the front end. Someone in a parking lot modified the bumper and grill while trying to get away from someone else they'd hit.
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