best boolit to learn to cast on???

[magnumwheelman]

So I've been collecting molds & casting stuff for years, also inherited all FIL's casting stuff, including about a ton of ingots cast from reclaimed lead & wheel weights... always thought I'd start when things slowed down a bit... but alas I'm not seeing life slow down any... so I'm thinking I'm just going to have to take the plunge this spring & summer... I have a couple new 480 molds coming, & really want to cast for those...

I understand there is a bit of a learning curve with casting... can you guys recommend a "best" size & cavity count to 1st cast??? I have molds from 22 caliber to probably .510 if I remember correctly, & various molds from single or double cavity to a few that are 6 cavity...

thoughts on the best place to start???

I'm assuming somewhere around 357 ( though I need those bullets the least right now ) & maybe a 2 cavity non hollow point bullet... but bow to your guys expertise...

[jsh]

Alloy, pot temp, clean pot, clean alloy, clean mold, mold temp, tempo or rythem.

Some alloys will have a temp preference. Molds will be the same way.

I keep notes on molds the same way I do on load work.

You darn sure aren't going to learn any younger ;-)

Don't cull while you are casting! Get in a rythem, pour, cut sprue, drop bullet, repeat. You can cull when you get done. The recycle very easy.

A PID is not a must. I don't have one but it is on my list. Programmable temp that is repeatable. A thermometer has done me well, for years, but I think a PID would make life a bit easier.

Flow. Some molds will like a fast or heavy flow, others won't. Some time tipping the mold to get the flow to hit the side of the sprue plate and swirl will help fill. Started playing with some 224 molds. One likes a swirl the other likes a heavy flow.

I won't say one mold is better than another to learn on. Heck I am still learning after 20 years.
I am not a perfectionist. I do strive for excellence. I cull mine pretty hard. If it does not look exactly like the inside of the mold,nit is a cull. Rounded anything or any visible flaws. I know others that have good luck with about what ever drops out. I expect no less in the accuracy department from a CB than I would a jacketed.

I can contribute enough on issues with accuracy, why would I want to put another issue in with a questionable bullet.
I used to weigh each and every one. I saw no difference in accuracy. This was with 30 cal and larger. Since I have started on smaller I may have to revisit this on 6.5 and under.

Wear gloves. Have good cross ventilation. No flying insects, a June bug can cause a lot of grief. So be careful if your in the garage/shop after dark with lights on and doors open. Wear long sleeves, long pants and good shoes. No flip flops and shorts. No nylon clothing or gloves, I prefer cotton.

Some food for thought. I imagine others will be along in short order.
Jeff

[magnumwheelman]

I think FIL used to put a little bees wax on the top to help pull the crud together or help it separate it from the lead??? I'll have to re-read the chapter on casting in my Lyman manual just to freshen up... goal here is to get to making some good 475 hp bullets when the new molds get here, but willing to practice the 1st pot on another caliber or flat nose .475's if those would be easier to learn on...

[boatswainsmate]

Here's allot of information I found useful when learning how the whole process work's. Happy Casting!
www.lasc.us/ArticlesFryxell.htm

[fanofthefortyone]

My first casting was with the MP molds for the 480, was easier than I thought. One thing to remember is, a hot bullet looks just like a cool one so be careful what you pick up with out gloves.
Ronnie

[bula]

Th ebest place to start is with a two cavity round ball mold for the Hawkin.

[Markbo]

May 9, 2017 5:47:16 GMT -5 magnumwheelman said:

...I'm assuming somewhere around 357 ( though I need those bullets the least right now ) & maybe a 2 cavity non hollow point bullet... but bow to your guys expertise...

I think you are on the right track. Definitely spend some time readng Fryxell's stuff. A YUGE amount of experience and expertise in one place. It's funny... when you make some beautiful cast bullets it is very rewarding. But there are a dozen things that can make them less than perfect...figuring out what's not right so you can change it is the hard part.

The more you read before you start, the quicker you will be able to do that and the less you will be throwing mediocre bullets back in the pot. It is a deteriorating skill, i.e. it take practice.

[frankenfab]

Don't start with the 22.

35 to 50 caliber wfn would be a good one.

Lots of good advice above.

[clintsfolly]

Find a caster near to you and befriend, pay or beg them to mentor you! Will move you up the curve way faster and easier then by yourself? I am in central Michigan and would do it if your close!

[magnumwheelman]

Thanks for the offer... I've got a retired machinist buddy that's been casting for 50 years... he's really started to slow down the last couple years... which is part of what has got me motivated to get going on it this spring / summer, before he & his wife get to where they can't get out to the farm any more...

[sixshot]

Get a Lyman or some other manual that talks about bullet casting from the beginning. Read everything you can about the subject, then read it again. Get with someone who is an experienced caster & watch closely & trade off casting with him, cast for a while then watch for a while, then back to casting. The switching back & forth really helps. Do not start with casting 22's or Hp's, that comes later. If you are getting good flat bases you are on your way. Some people over think temperature, nothing wrong with a frosted bullet.
Glasses, gloves & no liquids anywhere near your alloy is important, it usually takes about 3 laps around the house before it stops hurting if you get burned! Glen's online manual in superb, read it several times, also get a copy of Verl Smith's book on casting, it's the "Bible" of bullet casting. You won't need to lubrisize if you powder coat, just buy the Lee sizer dies & lube with them.

Dick

[wdr2]

Here's some tips I have learned along the way;

1 - start with an easy mold, 1 or 2 cavity. Every LBT, RCBS and Accurate Mold qualifies. Lee or current Lyman molds don't.
2 - clean all traces of oil off the completely disassembled mold (carburetor cleaner, boiling soapy water, toothbrush)
3- use a lead pot thermometer, start at 750F for wheel weights or 1:20 mix, almost always works.
4 - preheat the mold on a hot plate, about 400F
5 - flux once, just once, per session at the start using bees wax (light with match to reduce smoke, stir, remove crud)
6 - cast in one session, no interruptions, no culling (except - look at bases, if not flat and full, reject)
7 - do not put any lead back in pot during session
8 - use a fan, hold mold in air stream for count of 5 or so while you watch metal solidify
9 - use a nice steady cadence, cast with just one mold, again no interruptions, and stop when tired (60-90 mins for me)
10 - sometimes, the casting Gods are not with you. I have no idea why this happens, I just stop and go have a beer planning to cast another day.

I use an RCBS bottom pour pot for handgun bullets up to 375 gr and an RCBS dipper for rifle bullets or my 480 Ruger molds.
I generally have 90% keepers. When I started, more like 10% but I didn't know anything back then.
The above is certainly not the only "Way" but works for me.

Enjoy this fine hobby,
Bill

[frankenfab]

I agree with all of that, but I do think an Lee mold of a design that doesn't have a lot of sharp corners, like a classic 45 colt rnfp is still a great place to start. Part of the learning curve of casting is also how to use and care for your molds properly. If you trash a Lee mold, it's not as big of a deal.

[Deleted]

May 18, 2017 19:31:41 GMT -5 frankenfab said:

I agree with all of that, but I do think an Lee mold of a design that doesn't have a lot of sharp corners, like a classic 45 colt rnfp is still a great place to start. Part of the learning curve of casting is also how to use and care for your molds properly. If you trash a Lee mold, it's not as big of a deal.

I especially like Franks suggestion of a design that doesn't have a lot of sharp edges. These can be the dickens to get properly filled out. For a first 38/357 design I'd suggest one of the simpler "round flatnose" designs like LEEs 38-158 RFN, RCBS 35-158CM, or Lyman 358665. Look those designs over and see what you think. I was originally going to suggest a basic wadcutter design, but they have limited utility once you start to stretch the distances a bit. These basic designs should get you started on a straight path, and they shouldn't cause you too much grief as you learn to make them yourself.