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Post by isaactc on Feb 21, 2017 8:19:18 GMT -5
I have ordered a S&W 4" barrel from Brownell's to replace the 8 3/8" on my S&W 629. Other than have my local gunsmith replace it, what should I ask the cylinder gap to be set at- for cast bullets? Should I have the forcing cone cut to 11 degrees. etc.? Thanks, gentlemen. I could use some advise. This will be a trail gun, I will shoot equal numbers of .44 special and .44 mag handloads.
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Post by bradshaw on Feb 21, 2017 8:33:14 GMT -5
I have ordered a S&W 4" barrel from Brownell's to replace the 8 3/8" on my S&W 629. Other than have my local gunsmith replace it, what should I ask the cylinder gap to be set at- for cast bullets? Should I have the forcing cone cut to 11 degrees. etc.? Thanks, gentlemen. I could use some advise. This will be a trail gun, I will shoot equal numbers of .44 special and .44 mag handloads.
***** "Have the forcing cone cut to 11-degrees?” The 11-degree forcing cone has been industry standard for generations. If the forcing cone is CONCENTRIC, SHORT and SMOOTH, do not mess with it! Replacement barrel should hand-tighten to 10 or 12-degrees BTDC. Facing the muzzle, the front sight will stop at about 11:30. (11 o’clock=30-degrees Before Top Dead Center.) Do not use a torque wrench and do not force a barrel with over-advanced THREAD TIMING. Barrel/cylinder gap must be greater than cylinder ENDSHAKE. Providing the cylinder face has no runout, and endshake measures ZERO, the N-frame Smith should work with .003-inch gap. I have dead-reliable M-29s----which operate anywhere----with .004-inch gap. Note that an excessive gap reduces velocity but does not degrade accuracy. David Bradshaw |
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Post by isaactc on Feb 23, 2017 5:52:20 GMT -5
Thank you. That is exactly what I need to know.
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Post by ezekiel38 on Feb 23, 2017 11:23:37 GMT -5
FWIW 4 to 5.5" barrels are optimum barrel lengths for packing pistols. Always have a 4" 44 close by.
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