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Post by Quick Draw McGraw on Feb 13, 2016 15:20:17 GMT -5
Hi Everyone!
New here. I'm a Big Bore fan and have been reading some of the posts here. I am no stranger to big revolvers. I currently have a couple .44 Mags, a .454 Casull, and a .480 Ruger. I've been wanting a .50 Cal for fun, and after much consideration, I decided on the .500 JRH. I even have spoken with Jack Huntington a few times (really nice guy). He pointed me to Beartooth Bullets for Reloading Data and to Buffalo Bore for Brass. And I found another forum that had some data from Jack himself too.
I would love any input on this revolver or load you guys have. I also would love to know if I can put a hogue Super Blackhawk grip on this bad boy as I assume the recoil will be quite noticeable. Thanks for any help guys!
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Post by bigbore475 on Feb 13, 2016 23:26:41 GMT -5
I will have to suggest if you can order a 50AE cylinder while its still at the factory. A good friend suggested I do the same with my JRH BFR (he has a 50AE cylinder on his 500 JRH BFR) and he knows what he is talking about.
You scored a great revolver!
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Post by Encore64 on Feb 14, 2016 4:36:04 GMT -5
What you should know is you just made a terrific choice in truly big bore revolvers. In my opinion, the best of the 50 calibers.
The BFR has several distinct advantages. It accepts cut down 500 S&W cases without any modifications. By using .500" bullets, same as the 500 S&W and the 50 AE, the choices in both cast and jacketed bullets are greatly increased.
As pointed out in the above post, adding a 50 AE cylinder adds even more versatility. Factory brass and loaded ammo are available.
I am not saying it's better than the 475 or 500 Linebaugh, but component selection is much easier for the average shooter.
You can spend as much as you want on custom guns. There are some posted on here that can only be described as art. They are beautiful.
But the man who shoots a BFR in 500 JRH isn't likely to take a back seat to anybody.
I bought two after reading Whits first book, Big Bore Revolvers. A factory 5 1/2" and a 7 1/2" with a story of its own. Had MRI add 50 AE cylinders to both and never looked back.
Congratulations on making a great choice.
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coogs
.401 Bobcat
Posts: 2,674
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Post by coogs on Feb 14, 2016 11:17:52 GMT -5
A doctor that does a good carpal tunnel surgery? Jack
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Post by Quick Draw McGraw on Feb 14, 2016 11:24:03 GMT -5
Thanks guys! I emailed MRI about the .50AE cylinder, so I'll see what they say. I am planning on sending it to Jack Huntington to let him fine tune it, and maybe do a grip modification.
And I do have a good hand, arm, shoulder surgeon. I did Judo for years and had some minor shoulder injuries. Fortunately surgery wasn't required. I ended up "retiring" from it because of my other hobby, guitar. I didn't want to have a permanent hand injury and I came close at one point.
One more question. How do you guys cut down .500 S&W Mag brass? Chop-saw?
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Post by Encore64 on Feb 14, 2016 11:28:42 GMT -5
I have a Dremel in the drill press accessory. I just set the cut off wheel 1.4" above the plate, sit the case on the plate and rotate 360°. It's very easy and fast.
Chamfer, debur and load.
I use the same charge of Unique as called for in the 475 Linebaugh loads. Mild recoil and will still take most game with ease.
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Post by seancass on Feb 14, 2016 15:36:23 GMT -5
I use a tubing cutter and then a regular case trimmer. I'm told the tubing cutter is wearing the brass out, but I lost count of how many times I've reloaded this brass so take that for what you paid for it.
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edk
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,118
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Post by edk on Feb 14, 2016 17:11:07 GMT -5
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Post by magman on Feb 14, 2016 17:23:10 GMT -5
I bought a hb mini chopsaw to cut down 45-70 brass. After down 500 pieces needed a new blade.
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edk
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,118
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Post by edk on Feb 14, 2016 21:35:26 GMT -5
I bought a hb mini chopsaw to cut down 45-70 brass. After down 500 pieces needed a new blade. $3.33 blade to cut down 500 pieces/$200 brass. Is that bad?
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Post by Alaskan454 on Feb 14, 2016 21:39:43 GMT -5
Compared to over $1 a piece premade I'd say it's cheap.
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Post by Quick Draw McGraw on Feb 16, 2016 2:17:39 GMT -5
So I have a question on the .50 AE Cylinder. Since that is a rebated rim, how does that work? I mean, with a double action revolver you have a moon clip.
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Post by Encore64 on Feb 16, 2016 2:58:42 GMT -5
It headspaces on the case mouth, same a revolvers chambered in 30 Carbine, 9mm, or 45 acp.
Bullet slip can be a problem with heavy bullet reloads.
I've had great success with plated bullets. In jacketed bullets I put a very shallow cannelure and taper crimp just over the rear edge.
If the cannelure is cut too deep, I suppose headspace could be an issue. But, so far I have had zero problems.
I prefer Starline Brass as the ones I have measured have been about .002" thicker. This seems a small amount, but provides and extra .004" crimp while maintaining the same headspace surface.
RCBS provides a mold with a shallow groove for proper headspace which is where my idea for putting a shallow cannelure on the jacketed bullets originated.
Beartooth Bullets sells the correct bullets for this caliber.
Hope any of my ramblings have helped.
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Post by whitworth on Feb 16, 2016 10:49:01 GMT -5
Compared to over $1 a piece premade I'd say it's cheap. I know it's not cheap, but I have lost count how many reloadings I've gotten out of my first purchase of Starline .500 JRH brass.
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Post by Quick Draw McGraw on Feb 16, 2016 11:35:49 GMT -5
Encore64, thanks. That does help. Never shot a Semi-Auto cartridge in a revolver before.
Whitworth... Just got 200 cases of Starline from Buffalo Bore. Expensive, yes, but Starline is great stuff and I don't doubt I'll get tons of use from it!
Does anyone here reload .50AE? Are bullets hard to find? Can I use different bullets or is it a pretty picky round for reloading?
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