dmize
.401 Bobcat
Posts: 2,825
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Post by dmize on Jun 21, 2014 23:50:04 GMT -5
I think it is more common in low pressure rounds. I know my 44 Flattop and 38 Specials get a lot nastier than my 44 Mags and 357 Magnums. I think there isn't enough pressure to get a good case seal and the bullet lube gets splattered around and starts collecting the powder and lead residue.
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Post by ezekiel38 on Jun 22, 2014 23:21:07 GMT -5
Got to shoot the Bisley today for 15 rds. Same load as originally noted. First 12 fired without a problem started on third cylinderful of ammo and the 4th round the hammer hung up and drug into full cock with moderate pressure on spur, the loading gate was open by 3/8s of an inch.
Checked the primers. They were recessed below the casehead, the primer imprint was round and clean. No abrasion on the casehead. Checked the bbl/cyl gap, .004/.005 on the other side.
I'm going to load some Jacketed rounds at or about 1K fps, clean the cylinder and fire for effect, then mike the cases!
Aany other ideas?
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Post by jayhawker on Jun 23, 2014 9:12:59 GMT -5
Was the gate partially open when the hammer was difficult to cock? That could be the problem. I am sure you know that the hammer will not cock when gate is open.
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Post by ezekiel38 on Jun 23, 2014 15:15:05 GMT -5
Jayhawker: Thanks for your reply. Forgive my lack of mastery of the English language. I forgot to mention in the latest thread entry, that the loading gate was closed when firing the weapon. The gate popped partially open when I was shooting that 15th round.
I'm off to the range today to continue testing as I was interrupted yesterday at the 15th round. Will see how it performs. I'll also take along a second or different load and see how the Ruger shoots.
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Post by Cholla on Jun 23, 2014 15:44:52 GMT -5
I've done quite a bit of "in-house" work to my NM Blackhawk .44 Special and my NM Vaquero 45 Colt. Seems I remember the transfer bar dragging on one of them and binding the cocking action of the hammer after I;'d had the revolver apart. I just forced the thing a few times and it hasn't done it since. Have you tried dry firing it several times without the cylinder in place?
Please keep us posted.
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Post by Frank V on Jun 23, 2014 17:54:33 GMT -5
Something else to check, I've seen the transfer bar hang up on the pin in the cylinder base pin that pushes the transfer bar out if the pin gets dirty & grimy?
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Post by ezekiel38 on Jun 23, 2014 23:11:28 GMT -5
I didn't get to the range this pm as I had to retrieve my car from the shop. I will check out the transfer bar without the cylinder and check with the basepin for movement.
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Post by ezekiel38 on Jun 24, 2014 16:52:58 GMT -5
Latest in the saga of the jamming Ruger 44 Spec. Went back to the range today. Didn't clean the weapon so it had 15rounds through it previously. Loaded up my "woods" load of 14.5 grains of 2400 and a 255grain Keith SWC and a standard primer in Starline Brass.
Shot 18rounds of this load without a hitch. Went to the load that I had been having trouble with and it is a 240SWC 7.0 Unique and a standard primer. Two cylinders full of that load and the weapon functioned without a murmer.
Had 52 rounds left in a 100round box and decided to fire the two rounds that were "extra". Loaded the cylinder with the two rounds. 4 charge holes empty. Cocked the revolver and fired the first round, nary a glitch! Attempted to cock the hammer again and the hammer moved to the rear approximately 1/4 the distance of a normal travel for it, and stopped! Cylinder would not move. Put the gun on the seat of the pickup and thought through what had just happened. Picked the gun up and attempted to cock the hammer. The hammer moved to the rear full length of travel with little resistance. Cylinder moved to the right approximately 1/4 of an inch in rotation, and froze solid. Cylinder won't budge. It's going to the gunsmith!
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Post by arokcrwlr on Jun 25, 2014 8:36:02 GMT -5
Sorry to deviate from the OP thread, but this was mentioned so not too far in the weeds... I have been meaning to remove the indexing mechanism from my NM Flattops, but haven't done it yet. Can anyone tell me what size hex wrench to use for the retaining screw? I am sure that I can just try the ones that I have, but my with my luck it will be the one that I don't have or one that one of my kids used and lost.
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Post by jiminyt on Jun 25, 2014 10:28:07 GMT -5
These blackhawks should always be fired with a full cylinder. If you don't the loading gate isn't supported. This can cause the 'gate detent spring' (I believe it is called) to jump out of position and tie up the gun. If you want to only load 2 rounds, just put empties in the other chambers.
So now my question is, did the original tie up happen with all chambers loaded?
Edit: just re-read the thread, sounds like it didn't. I would test again.
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Post by zeus on Jun 25, 2014 12:47:31 GMT -5
Sorry to deviate from the OP thread, but this was mentioned so not too far in the weeds... I have been meaning to remove the indexing mechanism from my NM Flattops, but haven't done it yet. Can anyone tell me what size hex wrench to use for the retaining screw? I am sure that I can just try the ones that I have, but my with my luck it will be the one that I don't have or one that one of my kids used and lost. I don't remember but it had to be a fairly common one or I wouldn't have had it with me
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Post by ezekiel38 on Jun 25, 2014 16:38:37 GMT -5
Jiminy: Be glad to take your advice on "6 beans in the wheel" when I get the gun back from the Smithy. It either gets fixed correctly or off it goes to Ruger as it's last chance to stay in this household. I'm beginning to think a Model 69 Smith would nestle right in there between my pre 29 and my Mountian gun 44.
I rarely load less than a full cylinder, either single or double action revolver. This time I just wanted to shoot 2 rounds. I got one off.
I thought Rugers were supposed to be tough. I wish this Bisley flattop was half as tough as my Match Champion that it nestles next to in the safe.
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dmize
.401 Bobcat
Posts: 2,825
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Post by dmize on Jun 26, 2014 11:08:18 GMT -5
I would rule out any possible "smith induced" issues before getting too upset at Ruger.
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Post by Encore64 on Jun 26, 2014 12:33:20 GMT -5
Jiminy: Be glad to take your advice on "6 beans in the wheel" when I get the gun back from the Smithy. It either gets fixed correctly or off it goes to Ruger as it's last chance to stay in this household. I'm beginning to think a Model 69 Smith would nestle right in there between my pre 29 and my Mountian gun 44. I rarely load less than a full cylinder, either single or double action revolver. This time I just wanted to shoot 2 rounds. I got one off. I thought Rugers were supposed to be tough. I wish this Bisley flattop was half as tough as my Match Champion that it nestles next to in the safe. I would bet the problem is with the aftermarket gunsmith's "trigger job" more than a Ruger problem. Ruger may not even warranty it after the work done on it. I would be very careful placing blame on anyone before the facts are clear. I recently bought a Ruger that had the wrong base pin in it and they sent me the correct one in two days. But, it seems your problem started after the trigger job, so....
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Post by zeus on Jun 26, 2014 12:42:02 GMT -5
I would rule out any possible "smith induced" issues before getting too upset at Ruger. +1
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