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Post by nobearsyet on Jul 14, 2009 12:25:21 GMT -5
As I have been living in AZ for a couple months now I have gotten into sillhouette shooting several of it's many forms (BPCR, Handgun, centerfire rifle, rimfire) and am wondering, what do you guys do to your single action silhouette pistols? I picked up a 10" Super Blackhawk to use for this and have decided to pull out the stops as far as building this one goes, are you guys using any special trigger shoes, action work, sights, etc? I have decided on Hogue wood grips with finger grooves but otherwise am open to any ideas.
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Post by AxeHandle on Jul 14, 2009 13:36:25 GMT -5
Yo NBY!
When modifying your competition guns have your rule book in hand at all times... No modification on a competion gun is much good if it doesn't stay within the rules... Outside of personal modification recomendations on a Revolver for Silhouette (which is akin to buying underwear for someone you have never even seen...) the single most productive thing you can do is jack up that Ruger and run a FA in under it! Get you a 32/327 FA 97 for NRA Hunters Pistol and IHMSA Field Pistol and a 41 or 44 FA 83 Silhouette for the 200 Meter stuff.... ;D
Axe
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Post by Lee Martin on Jul 14, 2009 13:41:57 GMT -5
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Post by nobearsyet on Jul 14, 2009 14:08:28 GMT -5
I really want to stick to the Blackhawk Super Blackhawks just because I've never broke one
Other than the cracked backstrap on the 45
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Post by taffin on Jul 14, 2009 15:14:07 GMT -5
As I have been living in AZ for a couple months now I have gotten into sillhouette shooting several of it's many forms (BPCR, Handgun, centerfire rifle, rimfire) and am wondering, what do you guys do to your single action silhouette pistols? I picked up a 10" Super Blackhawk to use for this and have decided to pull out the stops as far as building this one goes, are you guys using any special trigger shoes, action work, sights, etc? I have decided on Hogue wood grips with finger grooves but otherwise am open to any ideas. DIAMOND DOT AND I BOTH HAD OUR OWN 10-1/2" SUPER BLACKHAWKS IN THE GLORY DAYS OF SILHOUETTING. I ADDED PACHMAYR GRIPS FOR THEIR NON-SLIP QUALITY AND NO BULKINESS AND POPPED OFF ONE LEG OF THE TRIGGER RETURN SPRING AND WE SHOT THEM FOR A LONG TIME. ONE IS NOW A 5-1/2" BISLEY .44 AND THE OTHER A STROH 5-SHOT.45 BISLEY. |
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Post by Ken O'Neill on Jul 14, 2009 17:51:55 GMT -5
I competed as an IHMSA International Class shooter in both the Standing and Revolver categories for years using stock 10" SBH's...and won regularly. Nevertheless, Axehandle has given you the best possible advice. I recommend re-reading his comments. In the hands of a skilled shooter, the SBH's will not compete favorably with a FA 83. Period. In the hands of a learner, the stock SBH is fine to move up through the classes with, and a good one is at least good enough to get them into AAA or even International Class. But the 83's are a superior tool, to win with.
Trigger shoes? Not legal. Aftermarket sights? Legal now, and a definite upgrade with a Bo-Mar on the rear and a hooded front...spelled $$$.
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Post by AxeHandle on Jul 14, 2009 18:02:40 GMT -5
Do I sense a photo opportunity? Here are My FA 97 in 32 mag and FA 83 in 22LR. Now take note that I NEED a FA 83 Silhouette in 357 and 41 mag just to make my life complete.. I might like a 44 Silhouette too... ;D  |
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Post by zeus on Jul 14, 2009 21:46:59 GMT -5
Along the lines of what Lee mentioned... Tucson 375 Supermag Silhouette  Or  the original sights to this one may be one of the sets that Axe has in that picture. I added the scope after the fact. Probably the most accurate 44 I've ever fired and is quickly becoming one of my favorite hunting sixguns..... |
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Post by AxeHandle on Jul 14, 2009 22:15:32 GMT -5
Here are the Silhouette sights off Zeus' 44... They ended up on a 7.5 inch FA 353  |
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carl
.327 Meteor
Posts: 546 
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Post by carl on Jul 16, 2009 7:04:00 GMT -5
Me being a serious collector in addition to being a shooter, I just had to have the rarest long barrel New Model .44 to shoot!  It was introduced in stainless at the tail end of the production of the tapered barreled 10-1/2 inch .44's. The next iteration featured the "Bull Barrel" requested by the silhouette shooters along with a narrow aperture rear sight blade and a "hawk billed" front sight assembly attached by a single screw. (My shooter sports a "homeboy" front sight blade, retained by Ruger's standard rollpin.) Carl |
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Post by Lee Martin on Jul 16, 2009 8:32:49 GMT -5
Carl....what years were the taper barrel produced and roughly how many were made? My dad bought a 10.5" when they first came out and I think he's kept in NIB. I'll have to check to see which version it is. -Lee www.singleactions.com |
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Post by nobearsyet on Jul 16, 2009 11:48:33 GMT -5
Well, I do mine is a bull barrrel gun, but ok, so far we have pop one leg off the trigger spring, and put Pachmyer grips on it, anybody do anything else to their silhouette sixguns?
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Post by AxeHandle on Jul 16, 2009 12:45:28 GMT -5
Okay... Okay... I get the point... No FA for you....  How about this...  Number 1.... Will the gun and ammo combo shoot? Shooting good up close does not equate to shooting good at 100 or 200 meters... If it is a 100 meter match will it shoot at 100 meters?... Same question for 200 meters... Now this is "will the gun and ammo combo shoot?" NOT "can you shoot it?" If the gun won't shoot your ability and everything else is moot... Tweak the throats, forcing cone, barrel crown.... Change bullets, change powder..... Make the gun shoot first! Number 2... Popped a leg of the trigger spring off is NOT a trigger job. Do a real trigger job on that gun. I'd start with quality parts like a Power Custom hammer a trigger set and a set of springs. The half cock sounds cool but doesn't put the bullet on the metal. Number 3... Within the limits of the sanctioning body's rules get some quality sights on that thing.... Nice tall and square the color depends on you and the range... You need good quality repeatable elevation and windage adjustment in the rear sight. A nice square patridge front. A covered front sight helps cut down on your group moving across the target as the sun moves across the sky.. Number 4.... Grips need to fit your hand and shooting style... Like my spidey boxers.. One size does not fit all... Number 5.... Keep your brass together. If you are shooting something that is marginal on the ram on the first loading don't expect it to do better on the second loading. Our own Curmudgeon (Lee Jurras) did extensive testing in the old Super Vel days and he says "new brass" only. The working of the brass reduces the neck tension and has a significant impact on velocity and as a result will move your long range groups enough to matter.. Tired now....  |
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carl
.327 Meteor
Posts: 546
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Post by carl on Jul 16, 2009 14:04:22 GMT -5
Lee, blued taper barrels ran from around late '78 until early '86 when the Bull Barrels appeared. The stainless taper barrels were made in late '85/early '86 with less than 2,000 produced.
Carl
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Post by nobearsyet on Jul 17, 2009 16:15:13 GMT -5
Well, I got out and did some shooting this morning, shot the 429421 over Elmer's old 2400 load, got groups running about 6"at the 100 yard mark (I slapped a scope on it for the accuracy testing, BTW Burris 3-12 job is a good scope) so I thin kI need to try a different bullet, or powder, or both, think I might try a heavier bullet, maybe on the order of 295 grns or so, and if that doesn't work maybe drop down to a 200 but I have worries about the 200 being able to actually knock over the big chunks of steel we're talking about, anyone with experience with the long barreled Ruger's want to make a load suggestion? Oh, before I forget that load was from a ransom rest, my throats measure a consistent 430 (according to my pin gauges, the 431 wouldn't go in but the 430 was tight) and according to the lead slug my bore diameters are right where they should be, but I noticed a little roughness when I pushed a patch through it while cleaning.
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