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Post by blueroan on May 1, 2011 22:51:35 GMT -5
Borrow/buy a standard 7/8 X 14 tap and you can clean the threads in your press. You could do the same thing with a die chaser on your reloading dies.
Hopefully you didn't damage the threads in either too badly.
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Post by tek4260 on May 2, 2011 14:10:47 GMT -5
Yea hopefully not too bad. I can still thread the dies by hand, but it takes some grip.
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Post by 2 Dogs on May 3, 2011 10:03:00 GMT -5
Good Grief.....
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Post by seancass on Apr 15, 2014 8:43:40 GMT -5
Is this thread too old to bump? Nah, it has too much info to Not bump! Fire lapping question: Beartooth's compound is about 320 grit. Some other companies go clear up fo 1200 grit to really polish the bore. Has anyone compared theae two methods? Any reason to go that far?
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diddle
.30 Stingray
Posts: 474
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Post by diddle on Apr 15, 2014 18:13:22 GMT -5
I stop at 600 grit.
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cmillard
.375 Atomic
MOLON LABE
Posts: 1,961
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Post by cmillard on Apr 15, 2014 18:36:08 GMT -5
I used Tubb's bullets for my clark custom longslide 1911 in .460 Rowland several years back. when I got that thing back from clark custom (after 16 months waiting), me being a sucker for a nice bore on my barrels, noticed that the lands were real nice shiny/smooth, but the grooves looked kind of frosted or rough. I bought the fire lapping system. only shot a few of the course bullets, and fired all of the medium and fine bullets. there was a noticeable difference when cleaning. it felt much smoother when pushing a tight patch down the bore. I also noticed that I could run more powder in my loads with the same bullets before noticing pressure signs. I am guessing this is due to less resistance. the grooves were much smoother in appearance afterwards as well. I heard that clark custom uses storm lake barrels on their builds? I don't know if all of their barrels are normally like this. that barrel has a real preference for cast lead bullets!!! I can not remember off the top of my head what the grit numbers were, if I find the box it all came in (plus the unshot coarse bullets), I will post.
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mike44
.30 Stingray
Posts: 166
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Post by mike44 on Apr 15, 2014 19:48:51 GMT -5
My buddy and I have firelapped 5 revolvers in the past 6 weeks using all Bear Tooth components. It is a bit of a project but well worth the effort. I got a couple of reamers for uniforming the .44 and .45 cylinder throats. I did need to polish the chambers out afterward. It really did make a huge difference in accuracy when completed. Not to mention how easily they clean up now. You will want to do a detailed disassembly and cleaning after the firelapping. That compound will get into places you wouldn't even think were possible on the internals!
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Post by tek4260 on Apr 15, 2014 23:26:03 GMT -5
FWIW, here is a before and after fire lapping on one of my 45's It is now part of the "tuning" that all of my revolvers get before they are considered "ready" Now granted, the left group is horrible and the right group isn't too good, but the difference is staggering. And the only difference is the fact that it was fire lapped in between the groups.
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Post by tek4260 on Apr 15, 2014 23:34:56 GMT -5
Also, looking at the groups, notice the one flyer in each group has a noticeable dark ring around the hole. I believe that was "lube purging" coming from using that junky Rooster lube. Basically the lube is not right for the application and leaves excess lube in the bore. Every couple of shots, the lube builds up in the bore and is purged by a shot causing a flyer. The dark ring is from lube in front of the driving band. There was a buildup of lube and that shot "purged" the bore. On the before fire lapping group, it was enough that some of the lube ended up on the target. On the after fire lapping target the one flyer has the dark ring. I didn't have this problem with Lyman Super Moly and I don't have it with my homemade 50/50 Lithium grease/beeswax.
Something worth looking for on your targets if you get random flyers. I'm no expert, but if you are getting the same thing, I'd recommend a softer lube.
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