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Post by buckheart on Apr 30, 2024 21:00:45 GMT -5
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Post by potatojudge on Apr 30, 2024 21:21:49 GMT -5
I'm hardly the guy to help here, but before others more knowledgable come along it might be nice to know if you cleaned the chambers and wiped lube off the brass before shooting.
Seems some say clean and dry is the trick. Others say it's the geometry of certain rounds that make bottleneck revolvers work or fail. Chamber finish plays a role as well I believe.
Thankfully those items can generally be corrected.
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Post by bushog on Apr 30, 2024 22:37:32 GMT -5
I'm hardly the guy to help here, but before others more knowledgable come along it might be nice to know if you cleaned the chambers and wiped lube off the brass before shooting. Seems some say clean and dry is the trick. Others say it's the geometry of certain rounds that make bottleneck revolvers work or fail. Chamber finish plays a role as well I believe. Thankfully those items can generally be corrected. I'm following this closely as I just got a custom .25-20 blackhawk I'm concerned about. The clean chamber and brass is what I've read too. |
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Post by wheelnut on May 1, 2024 1:01:45 GMT -5
To slick up extraction I've had success polishing the brass with steel wool by placing the empty brass case in the chuck for the Lee case trimmer and the chuck into a hand drill and running some 0000 steel wool over it. Polishes up the brass nicely and removes and goo that may have been allowed to build up on the case (case lube, dirt etc).
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Post by squawberryman on May 1, 2024 5:55:12 GMT -5
Not the same gun but a similar story, a Reeder 22 magnum bisley with an 8 shot cylinder wouldn't rotate. The rim thickness was all over the place with Winchester ammo and was dragging badly on the recoil plate.
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Post by AxeHandle on May 1, 2024 6:09:06 GMT -5
Haven't shot them much but the pair I own have run fine so far with factory ammo.
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Post by magnumwheelman on May 1, 2024 7:12:47 GMT -5
on a tight gun, Rim fire will bulge at the rim, & often drag, after being fired... I've also seen primers bulge enough to rub on the recoil shield... I was going to suggest a harder rifle primer, but you are using what I would recommend... but perhaps try a different brand of primers if you can find any... back in the old days, I think it was Winchester, that were softer, & CCI were harder... but in changing times, I'm not sure of the materials chosen for primers any more, so maybe try a few brands...
BTW #1, that's quite a collection of vintages of R-P brass. & not sure what one is... you may try to mic the rim thicknesses... my guess looking at the cylinder, you may find quite a variance in thicknesses, & maybe your gun is tight enough, that could be part of the issue, & checking rim thicknesses might be necessary...
BTW #2, I've shot a lot of 22 Hornet Revolver... starting with my old Raging Hornet, & and the custom that gun became after a couple years... you'll find clean & dry cases & chambers will result in your best results... I physically remove the left over sizing lube off my loaded rounds, & drying clean, the chambers & I have found this is really only important in a revolver... also the issue is compounded by the fact you're trying to eject 8 rounds, instead of 6... mine is also an 8 shot, & now runs smoothly, with clean dry cases & chambers...
BTW #3, a 55 grain bullet is not a "traditional" bullet weight for the Hornet... I understand that the Ruger is a 1 in 9" twist, & stabilizing the 55 grain should be a piece of cake... coincidentally, 20 years ago, that's what went onto my custom built on the "Raging" & I've had good luck with bullets up to 68 grains in my revolver albeit with an adjustment on the powders, as these are "out of the box" loads... what manual, did you find a load for the 55 grain bullets???
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Post by northerngos on May 1, 2024 10:34:13 GMT -5
Ignorant savage here, but in the pic it looks like the primers might be flowing around the firing pin maybe? Is that a lip formed around the dimple? Maybe just a trick of the light. Following this, that revolver is on my list.
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Post by 45MAN on May 1, 2024 12:50:32 GMT -5
BASED UPON MY EXTENSIVE EXPERIENCE WITH BOTTLE NECKED SMALL CALIBER CARTRIDGES IN REVOLVERS, e.g. 22 JET, 22 HORNET, 22 K-HORNET AND 25-20, YOU NEED TO DEGREASE THE CHAMBERS AND THE CASES (I USE LIGHTER FLUID) BEFORE USE AND EVERY FEW CYLINDER FULLS OF SHOTS (SOME LESS OFTEN THAN OTHERS) TO ELIMINATE AND/OR DIMINISH THE POSSIBILITY OF SET BACK AND LOCK UP. ALSO, EVEN IF YOU DEGREASE IF YOU GO TOO HOT ON THE LOAD YOU MAY GET SET BACK AND LOCK-UP. IMHO, REVOLVERS ARE NOT THE APPROPRIATE PLATFORM FOR MAX LOADS FOR THESE CARTRIDGES. JUST A "FEELING" BUT "I THINK" 4227 MAY BE THE BEST POWDER FOR THESE LITTLE CASES IN REVOLVERS. AND, I HAVE FOUND THAT CRIMPING WITH THE LEE COLLETT CRIMP DIE HELPS TO DIMINISH THE LARGE MV SPREADS COMMON TO THESE CALIBERS IN REVOLVERS.
ONE LAST SUGGESTION: DO NOT USE LIL'GUN IN A REVOLVER YOU WILL LIVE TO REGRET IT!
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Post by 45MAN on May 1, 2024 12:56:01 GMT -5
I'm hardly the guy to help here, but before others more knowledgable come along it might be nice to know if you cleaned the chambers and wiped lube off the brass before shooting. Seems some say clean and dry is the trick. Others say it's the geometry of certain rounds that make bottleneck revolvers work or fail. Chamber finish plays a role as well I believe. Thankfully those items can generally be corrected. I'm following this closely as I just got a custom .25-20 blackhawk I'm concerned about. The clean chamber and brass is what I've read too. bushog: I GET OVER 1,500fps WITH A RANCH DOG 86gr CAST BULLET IN A 6" (MAYBE 6.5") MIDFRAME OM (CONVERTED) RUGER BLACKHAWK CUSTOM 25-20 BY BOWEN (USING H4227) AND THE DEGREASING WORKS VERY WELL, JUST DEGREASE EVERY 2-3 CYLINDER FULLS. |
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Post by revolvercranker on May 1, 2024 14:25:07 GMT -5
Round at 6 o'clock and 7 o'clock looking at the primers looks a tad on the hot side. Let me tell you my experience with Lil Gun in small capacity casess. Was shooting a 6.7 Johnson spitfire in an M1 Carbine. Short story, it blew my gas piston/cylinder up. Had my friend check loads that were out of the book with his QuickLoad and they were showing extreme pressure. Nope won't catch me using that stuff again in small cases.
Check your chambers, by looking at that one fired case looks like the chamber may be tad rough. I think I'd polish them by whatever means you use to polish up chambers. That rule for bottleneck cartridges in revolvers keep the chambers and cases dry and free of any oil or case lube. The 22 Jet use to be a bugger for that, but it ran okay following the rule above.
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Post by buckheart on May 1, 2024 20:36:37 GMT -5
So the RP cases were had off of gun broker. There are a few Sellier & Belloit peices mixed in there. I just picked up 100 pieces of Hornady brass which I will give a try next. Measured a bunch of the RP and Hornady cases for rim thickness and they pretty much average out to .062. Not much variation there. The fired primers look a little flat and there is a little flow around the firing pin dimple but I don't think either of these things are critical. I will say that the rounds I loaded with Little Gun were twice as loud as the H-110 loads. Couldn't tell any difference in recoil as that Super Redhawk is a hefty hunk of stainless. I think the advice to abandon Little Gun for the hornet is a good thing. When I got the gun I cleaned it with Hoppes and oiled the innards. I didn't degrease the chambers so there was Hoppes in there. Always wipe the lube off the brass after loading. The fired cases do look pretty scratched up compared to the virgin Hornady cases. Chambers are rough. So set back after firing is what is happening as the cylinder spins free when it's loaded before firing. The load recipes came from the Lyman and Hodgdon manuals. I will run some lower end rounds through it this weekend. I will try 4227. Wish I could find some factory rounds.   You can see the mark on the frame where she gets hung up  |
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Post by revolvercranker on May 1, 2024 22:21:40 GMT -5
Couple more old Hornet powder to try too, 4198 and 2400. It's hard to get into trouble with 4198. Now for my hot loads in my 22 Hornet rifle, and very very accurate, is using WW 296 with the Hornady A Max bullets.
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Post by longoval on May 1, 2024 23:27:14 GMT -5
Rough chambers should aid in your battle with set back. Try the starting load with 4227 and degrease, degrease, degrease chambers and cases.
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Post by mhblaw on May 2, 2024 9:08:06 GMT -5
I'm hardly the guy to help here, but before others more knowledgable come along it might be nice to know if you cleaned the chambers and wiped lube off the brass before shooting. Seems some say clean and dry is the trick. Others say it's the geometry of certain rounds that make bottleneck revolvers work or fail. Chamber finish plays a role as well I believe. Thankfully those items can generally be corrected. I'm following this closely as I just got a custom .25-20 blackhawk I'm concerned about. The clean chamber and brass is what I've read too. Don’t worry Greg, your 25-20 shoots just fine. |
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