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Post by bigmuddy on May 27, 2009 17:23:02 GMT -5
Ron Power has the Ruger #5 grip frames ready for orders. They are limited, and not sure if there will be more after this first run or not.
My Lipsey's 44 is there now getting the frame put on the gun. (Now I need to find a grip maker).
They are available for both NM and OM guns. The price is going to be $275.00 with $5.00 extra for an OM if you want the slot for the trigger cut for a wide trigger.
Ron is putting something together for his web site now. I can't wait to get mine done. I'll post pics then. (My gun will probably be on the web site too)
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Post by kings6 on May 27, 2009 18:26:11 GMT -5
Randall emailed me yesterday saying they were about ready. He is shipping mine directly to Hamilton so he can use it to develop any specific procedures for the shop in fitting them. This on is going on an OM 41 Special FT he is making the #5 base pin latch for as well. Once Ron and Randall announced they were to make these, we decided to make it as close to a poor man's #5 as we could. Now to check on engraving costs
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jefats
.30 Stingray
Posts: 309
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Post by jefats on May 27, 2009 19:48:41 GMT -5
Talked with Ron three times today. What a hoot!
Can't wait to see them.
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Post by bigmuddy on May 27, 2009 22:24:45 GMT -5
Talked with Ron three times today. What a hoot! Can't wait to see them. Yeah, he is that!. I got a call earlier this evening and he had mine fitted to my gun. Now I need to find grips, then re-finish and it is done. The set screw to prevent the hammer from "over cocking" is really cool. It just makes the whole thing feel like a quality piece now.(Not that it wasn't before, but you know what I mean) img10.imageshack.us/img10/3324/dsc00001edi.jpgimg505.imageshack.us/img505/8271/dsc00006k.jpg
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Post by jimmarch on May 27, 2009 22:49:13 GMT -5
Um....hate to say it, but really for that money you could start with a Ruger Bisley grip frame and have it custom-chopped short and welded to a length exactly fitting your hands. And then for grip panels, just modify standard Ruger Bisley panels. Comes out cheaper that way overall, and you get to set the length to exactly your needs. You don't even need to go dead flat underneath, you could give it an angle under there and style it to whatever you wanted.
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Post by kings6 on May 27, 2009 23:24:00 GMT -5
Ah Jim, your taking all the fun out of it when you bring common sense into the picture I thought of sending a Bisley frame to David Clements and having him do that but I really want to compare the Powers OM frame, the OM 2 piece Clements #5 and the TLA before I send it off to David. That way I can see which one fits me best and make mods from there.
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Post by jimmarch on May 28, 2009 1:09:52 GMT -5
Well what I want to do is take a standard Bisley grip frame, chop it a bit, chop the grips, fill in the bottom with modeler's clay or the like and see how it feels. Maybe chop some more. Play with angles. Get it RIGHT for ME personally.
Then have it welded up like that.
Nothing is going to match the ergonomics of something matched to your hand, and as a bonus it's at least no more money than a Powers #5 and might very well come out cheaper.
Look...the real #5 was fitted to Elmer's hand and shooting style. THAT is the breakthough, not a slavish clone of what he did. Full custom to get a similar effect as where Keith went is the proper way to pay homage to the master. Cloning his parts is missing the point.
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Post by Lee Martin on May 28, 2009 7:49:35 GMT -5
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Post by 2 Dogs on May 28, 2009 10:15:29 GMT -5
For those of you fitting up #5 style grip frames to your Old Model Rugers, be advised that the cylinder frame ears often need to be welded UP to raise thier profile to get the proper radius to blend with the gripframe. For best results send the parts to Alan Harton for proper fitting.
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caryc
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,055
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Post by caryc on May 28, 2009 10:50:56 GMT -5
Talked with Ron three times today. What a hoot! Can't wait to see them. Yeah, he is that!. I got a call earlier this evening and he had mine fitted to my gun. Now I need to find grips, then re-finish and it is done. The set screw to prevent the hammer from "over cocking" is really cool. It just makes the whole thing feel like a quality piece now.(Not that it wasn't before, but you know what I mean) img10.imageshack.us/img10/3324/dsc00001edi.jpgimg505.imageshack.us/img505/8271/dsc00006k.jpgJust where is the set screw that acts as a hammer stop? I don't see it in the pictures.
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Post by nobearsyet on May 28, 2009 11:22:21 GMT -5
Crap, one more thing that I need t opay for.
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kooz
.327 Meteor
Posts: 618
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Post by kooz on May 28, 2009 12:31:12 GMT -5
I just ordered one myself. Don't really have any specific plans for it just yet. According to Randall they should ship in a week or two.
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Post by nobearsyet on May 28, 2009 13:06:09 GMT -5
Good, gives me time to make a little money to pay for the one I ordered when they were still getting them ready.
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Post by bigmuddy on May 28, 2009 16:35:34 GMT -5
For those of you fitting up #5 style grip frames to your Old Model Rugers, be advised that the cylinder frame ears often need to be welded UP to raise thier profile to get the proper radius to blend with the gripframe. For best results send the parts to Alan Harton for proper fitting. When Ron was designing his frame, he kept telling me that his would eliminate the need to "weld it up". I was not sure what he was talking about until he put the frame on my gun yesterday. To get the right radius he filed the "ears" down on the cylinder frame to get it to blend with the grip frame. Still something I would not tackle myself, but no welding was needed.
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Post by bigmuddy on May 28, 2009 16:42:07 GMT -5
] Just where is the set screw that acts as a hammer stop? I don't see it in the pictures. Sorry the pic is not that great, but you can see the set screw in the frame.
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