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Post by tdbarton on May 17, 2023 8:07:59 GMT -5
To be perfectly honest, the S&W Model 69 doesn’t really NEED anything. In my estimation, it’s just about as close to a perfect factory trail gun as you’re going to find. It’s a 5-shot .44 in a handy package with good sights, grips, and trigger right out of the box. Mine has proven to be very accurate, comfortable to carry, and quickly became a mainstay in my outdoor carry rotation.
A lot has been said about newer Smith and Wesson revolvers - with most of what I’ve read being negative. And while I understand both nostalgia and an appreciation for the craftsmanship and attention to detail that came with the “pre-lock” days or - to a greater extent - the pinned and recessed models of the past, I think the negativity toward modern S&W revolvers is highly unwarranted. I feel this revolver highlights that.
In talking to several folks who are deeply entrenched in double action revolvers - particularly S&W’s - far and away the largest gripe is about the internal lock. Opinions range from “it’s ugly” to “it can accidentally lock up the gun”. Fair points. I’ve heard anecdotally of these locks actuating under recoil -inadvertently rendering the gun useless. Never experienced this myself nor met anyone that has - but the internet will have you believe that there’s a 50/50 shot of your new S&W suddenly becoming a paperweight with every pull of the trigger. Those opinions are worth exactly what you paid for them. And while that’s worth considering (up to a point), the lock really shouldn’t keep anyone from enjoying these fine firearms.
As I stated up top, the Model 69 doesn’t really need anything. But if you absolutely can’t abide the lock, or just don’t want to risk the off-chance of it malfunctioning and tying up the gun - there’s a simple and fairly cheap fix: Lock delete kits. These aren’t news to most of you, but some might be concerned with cracking open a double action and rooting around inside, so I’ll post some pics below to illustrate that it’s really not that difficult.
- Tim
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Post by tdbarton on May 17, 2023 8:16:42 GMT -5
 Above illustrates the extent of disassembly required to remove the internal lock. Removed parts are on the towel above the revolver. You’ll need to remove the grips, the mainspring, the side plate, the hammer, and the cylinder release. From there, the locking mechanism (which rides under the cylinder release) can be removed by depressing a small spring and freeing the device from the c-clip holding it in place. The lock is then replaced using a ‘Lock Delete Kit’. They are made by a number of manufacturers at this point, with the original being American Precision - which is the one I’m using. A small ‘slug’ is inserted into the hole in the frame and then held in place by the same spring and clip system that held the lock in place.  |
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Post by tdbarton on May 17, 2023 8:23:06 GMT -5
As you might be able to tell from the picture above, my lock delete slug didn’t quite fit flush with the frame. I haven’t seen this be the case with other lock deletes, but nevertheless a small detail like this would drive me up the wall. Additionally, some folks don’t want to see evidence of a lock at all. Luckily, I had a second upgrade on deck that easily solves that: a Tromix extended cylinder release. This release is slightly oversized and swept upwards to completely conceal the lock hole in the frame. You do not need to remove to lock to install one of these and - if the lock is no concern but you don’t like the look of the hole - this is a great option. I’ve found that it’s an improvement to the factory cylinder release and matches the other hardware of the gun perfectly.  |
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Post by tdbarton on May 17, 2023 8:35:05 GMT -5
 All that’s left to do at this point is fully reassemble the revolver. You now have all the positive of the Model 69 and none of the potential negatives of that pesky lock. As always, it’s recommended you hang onto the lock components in case the gun ever needs to go back to S&W. I’m always pursuing the best examples of a Practical Field Pistol - and this one ranks highly. With my field guns, I always appreciate the option of attaching a lanyard. Pictured on the gun is a lanyard ring, which was part of special order for the Royal Canadian Mounted Police. These work in conjunction with Hogue Monogrips, replacing the mounting screw with this screw/lanyard loop combination. The lanyard loop has the ability to rotate 360 degrees without loosening the screw and - for six bucks - is a cool thing to have for your revolvers sporting monogrips. It should be noted that these only work with “short screw” monogrips, but there’s options for “long screw” monogrips as well, which you can see on the SP101 below. The Model 69 with some of its trail companions - all fantastic, practical field pistols:  |
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Post by Encore64 on May 17, 2023 8:39:06 GMT -5
Tim, great posts and that M69 came out great.
One of the best Trail Guns available these days too...
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Post by seminolewind on May 17, 2023 8:51:48 GMT -5
Great pictorial on modifying your Model 69. I’ve carried and shot mine for about a year now and will say it is my all time favorite S&W revolver. When I first got the gun I fully intended to do something about the lock, but now a year later, I never even think about it.
By the way, how do you clean the discoloration off your cylinder? It looks brand new. Mine has dark discoloration on the outside of the cylinder at each throat that won’t come off with any solvent I have tried.
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Post by tdbarton on May 17, 2023 8:52:46 GMT -5
It carries very comfortably in a Barranti CCR holster  |
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Post by tdbarton on May 17, 2023 8:57:39 GMT -5
Great pictorial on modifying your Model 69. I’ve carried and shot mine for about a year now and will say it is my all time favorite S&W revolver. When I first got the gun I fully intended to do something about the lock, but now a year later, I never even think about it. By the way, how do you clean the discoloration off your cylinder? It looks brand new. Mine has dark discoloration on the outside of the cylinder at each throat that won’t come off with any solvent I have tried. Mine gets a Ballistol wipe after shooting or after carrying. I’ve found that Ballistol - while not great as an internal lubricant - makes a great external protectorate. Seems to create a ‘film’ of sorts as it dries/ages. |
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Post by potatojudge on May 17, 2023 11:44:46 GMT -5
A little action work. Grips. Sights/optics. Lock delete or deactivation with Tromix cylinder release. None really mandatory, but easy enough to do at home without breaking the bank.   |
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Post by potatojudge on May 17, 2023 11:46:57 GMT -5
I didn’t take pics of the rest but this is the lock with the tab that blocks the mechanism ground off. Easy, free, and the hole remains plugged.  |
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Post by paul105 on May 17, 2023 15:46:29 GMT -5
My favorite big bore double action revolver platform. Here are a couple of upgrades I've found that improve shootability. . Bowen Rough Country Rear sight and on this gun a Dawson Precision 1/10" black front. .  . Also Dawson Precision -- this one is (obviously) a fiber optic front. .  . I've also found the small red dot's help old eyes out a lot -- this one is EGW base with trijicon RMR -- still can't get used to the looks, so currently none of my m69s are so equipped. .  . And finally, the Hogue Tamers (covered backstrap) make shooting a lot more comfortable for me. Anything hard or with exposed backstrap hammers the bone at the base of my thumb making for a pain full outing with any caliber above 22 Lr. These can be modifies with a dremel drum sander or belt sander to remove finger groves and round the butt. .  .  . Take your time for a better outcome. . FWIW, I have had the "lock" spontaeously engage on both a M329 and a 6" M629. Removed the locks on these guns. Have a number of other S&W "lock" model .44 mags that have not been a problem. . |
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Post by tdbarton on May 17, 2023 18:30:13 GMT -5
Paul, love the sight options you posted. Also looking to take the finger grooves off a set of Hogue’s. Frustratingly, they offer a finger groove-less grip that is exactly what I want, but it’s the grip with the integral laser. They don’t offer it without the laser and don’t plan on making that an option in the future - I asked.
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Post by tdbarton on May 17, 2023 18:58:21 GMT -5
A little action work. Grips. Sights/optics. Lock delete or deactivation with Tromix cylinder release. None really mandatory, but easy enough to do at home without breaking the bank. PJ, I’m curious about what kind of action work you did. Mine has been so good out of the box, I’d be hesitant to mess with it. |
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Post by potatojudge on May 17, 2023 20:20:21 GMT -5
Just a little buff or stoning of the innards.
The case hardened parts just get a little surface re-texturing otherwise they’ll be ruined, and things like the rebound slide get more properly stoned as do the main frame contact areas where needed. Some actions tolerate wolf springs without concern, others you feel a less snappy hammer drop or trigger return in which case keep the heavier springs.
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Post by crash86 on May 17, 2023 20:53:54 GMT -5
I have a 69 and will agree on the gun being pretty good as is. Bought mine for a piece of mind while baiting bears. I did change the springs in it to reduce and smooth up some the double action pull and really slicked up the single. But then again with the few Smiths in my collection they are pretty damn nice right out of the box. The aforementioned lock delete was also installed. A pair of Herrett Stocks went on mine along with a Dawson front and a fixed rear sight from D&L Sports rounded out the the revolver.
I just picked up a Blued Model 21 and installed a lock delete on that one also. The only problem I had was they only had Stainless finished in stock. While I can get used to it, I may need to look into that cylinder release, Thanks for the heads up on that one.
Crash
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