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Post by 2 Dogs on May 16, 2023 9:51:54 GMT -5
2dogs, I've got a bunch of Veral's fire-lapping compound left. Would that also work for this "new" method? Or, should I try a finer grit compound. No, it should be fine. |
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Post by bigbore5 on May 16, 2023 16:11:42 GMT -5
I've got an array of compounds from 1a Clover to white jeweler rouge. What grit should I try? Maybe 3f followed by 1000 for my stainless guns?
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Post by longoval on May 16, 2023 16:38:56 GMT -5
Pictures of Beartooth and Clover   |
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Post by bigbore5 on May 16, 2023 17:49:34 GMT -5
Okay. I'll try some 320 following up with 3f and see how it goes this weekend. I don't powder coat anymore, so I really want a smooth bore.
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Post by bigbore5 on Jun 14, 2023 13:58:24 GMT -5
Wadcutters working fine. Trying the mildest loads I can. I did stick one, so I upped to 580fps. Still watching closely though.
Next up, I have a security six that the bore looks like ripples in. Might have to send a few courser grit bullets down the barrel. Ruger stainless is hard. It's chatter marks end to end though.
Thinking about a few with Clover Grade E until it greys well, then the 320/3f/1000/5000 routine.
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Post by niederlander on Aug 25, 2024 19:38:18 GMT -5
I've been working on a frame bore contriction in a .357 Old Model Blackhawk converted to .44 Special. So far, I'm up to forty rounds with Veral's compound. There's still a constriction at the frame, although it seems to be a little better. If you're familiar with the Brownells plug gauge for the 11 degree forcing cone, it won't go in the breech end, but slips in the muzzle properly. Guess I'll just keep working on it!
Now I'm up to sixty rounds, and it seems to be getting a little better. I'll have to say, the rest of the bore looks smoother than any I've ever owned. I'll probably do this with a Smith & Wesson 629 Classic, too. It seems to have a slight constriction, but nothing like this one has.
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Post by niederlander on Aug 26, 2024 17:50:03 GMT -5
I just got some Clover valve lapping compound, and it seems to be a much thicker consistency than the LBT stuff I've been using. I'm wondering if that could be a reason it's taking so many rounds to get that constriction out. I'll have to try some and see.
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Ramar
.30 Stingray
Posts: 442
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Post by Ramar on Aug 29, 2024 9:56:08 GMT -5
longoval, Fermin,
Thanks for posting this. Been putting this off for years. You give me some impetus to get it done.
Are your bullets seated nose first? (RN, SWC, WC?)
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Post by 2 Dogs on Aug 29, 2024 18:10:24 GMT -5
longoval, Fermin, Thanks for posting this. Been putting this off for years. You give me some impetus to get it done. Are your bullets seated nose first? (RN, SWC, WC?) Art, thanks for the visit old friend! |
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Ramar
.30 Stingray
Posts: 442
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Post by Ramar on Aug 29, 2024 18:14:13 GMT -5
longoval, Fermin, Thanks for posting this. Been putting this off for years. You give me some impetus to get it done. Are your bullets seated nose first? (RN, SWC, WC?) Art, thanks for the visit old friend! Likewise, Fermin. It was great to catch up! |
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Post by messybear on Sept 2, 2024 7:25:09 GMT -5
Thinking about this lapping thing- I remember doing some with a method that JL told me about.
It was a lot less messy and simpler. He just used a q- tip or some tool to deposit a little compound in the forcing cone and then shoot the lightly loaded lapping rounds through it. I tried it and liked it. Might not be as effective on a bad one though. I don’t know but it worked for ones that didn’t need much.
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jeffh
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,746
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Post by jeffh on Sept 2, 2024 17:22:27 GMT -5
Last one I did was a BOOGER for leading, but I used Fermin's instructions from Gunblast - sorta.
I used leftover 320 valve-lapping compound I was sent by mistake when a company I'd previously ordered from started automatically generating orders from the past year and sending out compound. Had plenty.
To seat the bullets, I placed a small square of steel plate over the opening of the seating die to push the bullet in and - no mess in the die.
It took a lot more than twelve rounds, and I mean to tell ya - no matter what you think of Charter Arms' guns, the stainless in their barrels is TOUGH.
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cmillard
.375 Atomic
MOLON LABE
Posts: 1,996
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Post by cmillard on Sept 3, 2024 0:56:11 GMT -5
The best fire lapping process I ever tried was when David Tubb still made his final finish fire lapping bullets. It was a series of varying bullets (dry coated) with coarse to fine/polish. I used it to fire lap my .460 Rowland and it worked like a charm. Zero mess. Now, these kits don't seem to be offered anymore.
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Post by marlin35 on Sept 3, 2024 19:20:03 GMT -5
Makes me wonder about some of those abrasive powder coats from harbor freight I think it was. Would certainly be a convenient way to firelap.
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jgt
.327 Meteor
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Posts: 813
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Post by jgt on Sept 4, 2024 12:05:47 GMT -5
I bought some of the black powder coating from Harbor Freight to use for that. My problem is I am afraid it will be too coarse and leave scratches in the barrel. By the time I fire lap the scratches out I may be over sized and use more bullets with lapping compound that it called for to start with. What say ye that have used them before we knew they were so abrasive?
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