4 Inch P&R S&W 19

[AxeHandle]

[AxeHandle]

[AxeHandle]

[AxeHandle]

[AxeHandle]

[AxeHandle]

[AxeHandle]

[oddshooter]

One of my favorites, the model 19.

It could be cleaned and re nicheled; but I question the value and expense.
I love the balance and accuracy when shooting, and that is my mana. She still looks good to me.

I have few problems with a sixgun that has seen some cosmetic abuse. It's a good way to acquire some great sixguns without paying the full price. Collecting mint specimens has some value for fondling, but a good shooter makes my heart race and my temperature rise.

Nice acquisition.


Prescut

[x101airborne]

I have heard from others, not personal experience that Hoppes 9 will damage nickel coating. I dont know, that is what I have been told.

[bradshaw]

Apr 19, 2023 6:23:19 GMT -5 x101airborne said:

I have heard from others, not personal experience that Hoppes 9 will damage nickel coating. I dont know, that is what I have been told.

*****

Trey.... ammonia dope left too long is said to attack nickel. Hoppe’s #9 is said to contain ammonia, albeit in weak proportion. The old GI bore dope is a stronger ammonia formula for neutralizing corrosive priming while dissolving copper fouling; we never left it in more then a few minutes. I’ve left Hoppe’s #9 in chambers & bores for days and weeks, although never on a nickel plated gun. Hoppe’s #9 and Copper #9 would sit in the bore of my silhouette guns between matches, getting a fresh wipe before returning too the firing line. The beautiful nickel plate on classic Smith & Wesson and Colt revolvers offers far better protection against moisture and sweat and deep south humidity than any bluing, but it still must be cared for. Sweat can attack bluing in an afternoon, while nickel protects. Good wiping with a Silicote cloth even while water fouling salt water, yet, once ashore I clean and re-wipe at the first chance.

Unprotected nickel exposed to moisture over time will lift nickel enough to rust parent steel.

While I don’t want WD-40 in the mechanism of a firearm any more than inside a motor, I like its protective quality on the outside. WD-40 oxidizes to form a thin gum-like barrier against moisture.

Jim Stekl of the Bench Rest Hall of Fame and developer of the Remington BR cartridges made his own bore dope. Don’t remember Stekl’s ammonia percentage, but he didn’t leave it in the bore more than a few minutes, and that includes stainless steel.
David Bradshaw

[marcruger]

You are correct on Hoppe’s not being safe for nickel. That also goes for any bore cleaner that eats copper. I was advised the traditional nickel plating has a layer of copper as a bonding agent between steel and nickel. If there is any pinhole or break in the finish then Hoppe’s will wick in and destroy the copper. Then the nickel flakes off. Extensive research I did into this found Break Free CLP to be the only cleaner and protectant labeled as safe for nickel.
Yes, I know. Somebody has used Hoppe’s for years on nickel with no problem. Still it might happen tomorrow and not worth the risk.
My great uncle was an engineering professor at Dartmouth, and worked developing prototypes for Winchester during the War. He used Hoppe’s and recommended it. He had a friend come to him angry with a ruined S&W with peeling nickel. That started my great uncle’s research into the “why” of the issue.
I am not sure about later electroless nickel as I don’t know if it has copper underneath.
I did see one nickel revolver online where Hoppe’s had turned the finish into an ugly rainbow effect.
Again, not worth the risk when BreakFree CLP works and is easily found.
Hope this saves someone grief. God bless, Marc