Case Hardening vs. Bluing

[AxeHandle]

Looks like the result of the discussion is that a more appropriate term for CCH as we currently see it applied would be case color.. Can we make the assumption that the reason is just that improved metalurgy makes the hardening, while still value added for stuff hammers and sears, unecessary for the cylinder frame?

FWIW the simple wikipedia definition says "mild steel" is a carbon steel typically with a maximum of 0.25% Carbon. As I originally wrote, mild steel needs carbon added if you need to harden it...

[buck]

I had a Beretta single action that just regular CLP took the color case off of.
G96 I believe.

[CraigC]

The Beretta's are just a chemically applied finish. I'm not surprised. At least Ruger learned their lesson with the faux finishes.

[buck]

it just pealed off in a film like a snakes skin

[peacemaker]

That's because it isn't real color case hardening.

There is blue, then there is blue. I assumed you were asking with reference to hot bluing. Hot bluing is more durable than charcoal bluing.

What do you mean by "durable"? If you mean appearance-wise only, then bluing is typically more durable than color case. Many times the color case will be faded to an even brown patina while the bluing is still showing strong. However, this is mostly related to time, so it's not a good yardstick to measure durability related to wear.

If by "durable" you are referring to function, I'm pretty certain that the case hardening is still present even though the colors have all faded. In that case, case hardening is performing its intended function long after the bluing has been worn off and the gun is rusting.

[montelores]

Thank you for the responses. I have read them all.

Monty

[blueroan]

Go to the public library and find MACHINERY'S HANDBOOK. There is a section that discusses various hardening processes from a technical view point.

My SHILOH SHARPS 50/90 has the optional pack hardened finish on the frame, lever, and breech block. It is a more muted version of the color case hardening process, BUT matches the SHARPS finish on originals from the 1860s. It is appropriate for a SHARPS, but not my choice for a heavily used hand gun. SHILOH also offers a finish called "french gray," which is case hardened and then the color polished off.

[magnumwheelman]

Sorry to drag up this old thread, but hate asking the same old questions...

I'm in the process of "building" a Colt Walker into a black powder cartridge gun... my local retired machinist buddy is doing the work... he does a lot to strengthen the gun it's self...

for a starting point, I bought a new Uberti Walker "kit" from Dixie Gun Works ( fully assembled gun, with unfinished metal & wood surfaces ) while working on the gun, my buddy noted that the gun's frame material is very soft... color case hardening was always a thought as we completed, but we are both worried about the thickness of the hard surface, & at this point, would like to find someone that can case harden the frame, with more emphasis on thickness of the hard surface, than in colors obtained...

interestingly, the barrel assembly appears to be harder steel, I suppose because of the rifled barrel... the gun frame is noticeably of softer material... I'm guessing finding out the alloy from Uberti would be like pulling teeth

any suggestions as to a shop without a huge lead time, that could put a good case hardness on the frame

[CraigC]

As far as I know, Turnbull still does color case hardening, not just coloring. Back in August, his lead time was only 2-3weeks on pre-polished finish work. Might inquire of his shop to see what they can do for you.

[magnumwheelman]

in fact, the local "coloring shop" recommended I talk to them... so, I was on the phone with his shop, about an hour ago, & they said that's exactly what they do...

about 3 week lead time right now... so as it stands right now, the frame is going there

[shadow]

Renaissance Wax is endorsed and has been used exclusively by major museums, art galleries and professional conservators throughout the world for years, for the preservation of invaluable paintings and precious art objects, including valuable antique firearms. Renaissance Wax claims that their product is chemically neutral, non-abrasive, and safe to use on "any vulnerable" surfaces, and I personally would take that to include "color case hardening". It cleans, restores, polishes and protects all of my firearms, custom knives, and other valuables effectively. I basically apply a "small amount" with my fingertips to all major areas and use a new "soft" bristled tooth brush to apply into tight niches, let dry a few minutes to a chalky state, and buff with a clean micro fibre cloth. I use it on all and "any" metal finishes, stocks and grip materials, including exotic burlwoods, Ivory, bone, horn. etc. and all leather products, including exotic animal skin.

Renaissance Wax can be ordered directly through: restorationproduct.com/renwaxinfo. The 65ml size container will last a long time due to the need to only apply sparingly.

To answer the OP's question .... Monty, if the CCH finish is not physically abused or thrashed and not exposed to direct sunlight for extensive periods of time, consistent applications of Ren Wax, should preserve the integrity of your CCH over long periods of time.

Shadow

Whoa .... pardon me fella's, I didn't realize this thread was started back in April 2010

In any case the info I provided re: the preservation of CCH still applies.

[texagun]

I've used Renaissance Wax for years on CCH with good results, both real CCH like found on Turnbull guns and on the old Ruger Vaqueros with fake CCH.