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Post by maxcactus on Apr 8, 2021 0:47:38 GMT -5
Good evening, gents,
The Cylinder Lubrication thread under the DA branch got me to thinking. I recently picked up a new Les Baer 1911 in stainless steel. The paperwork inside the box made it very clear that the pistol was not to be cleaned and lube not to be removed prior to the 300 rd break in period. I'm assuming they're trying to prevent any galling that might occur otherwise. No problem, understood. The only issue I have is that the pistol seems quite dry to begin with. Does anyone have any idea what kind of lube they apply to a tightly fitted stainless tool to ensure galling doesn't occur? Most likely, I've got something that will work in my garage, but I'm wondering if the preferred product is copper infused or....
Thanks in advance.
The other Max
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JM
.375 Atomic
Posts: 2,422
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Post by JM on Apr 8, 2021 9:35:53 GMT -5
Dan Wesson 1911 owners manual recommends FP-10.
I believe that is mostly due to the "Duty Treat" finish. Some lubes will stain the finish. I believe they also recommend clean & lube every 50 rounds to break in. Different products, different procedures.
Think I would call Les Baer tech & ask.
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Post by taffin on Apr 8, 2021 10:56:00 GMT -5
JM IS RIGHT ON--CALL LES BAER.
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Post by bradshaw on Apr 8, 2021 13:31:17 GMT -5
JM IS RIGHT ON--CALL LES BAER. ***** Yes, the question answers itself----call manufacturer.There should be no secrets in gun maintenance. As a footnote, many years ago, Les Baer told me stainless can’t be fit as tight as carbon steel without galling. This rule does not apply to revolvers. Were galling a problem with revolvers, the Freedom Arms Model 83 would be chrome-moly and blued. The composition of stainless steel hardware used in manufacture is of extreme importance. I’ve used Anti-Seize Compound on an early Colt Series 80 stainless 1911, with factory and with Bar-Sto barrels. Whatever formulation of stainless, the gun is tough, far tougher and better machined that earlier gray-market attempts at a stainless 1911. David Bradshaw |
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Post by bigbrowndog on Apr 8, 2021 18:24:01 GMT -5
The galling issue was a large stumbling block for the AuoMag. They or Lee Jurras I can’t recall exactly who, had a special lubricant made to help alleviate the issue.
In my conversations with Lee, I mentioned to him of my use of a mix of moly grease and synthetic motor oil for all my lubrication needs that required lube to stay put. He chuckled and said that is essentially what the “secret” lune was. David alludes to it as well in his lubrication post.
Trapr
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Post by bradshaw on Apr 8, 2021 21:29:59 GMT -5
Take this to the bank, stainless steel bolts on bolt action rifles crave lubrication. No stainless bolt action rifle in my hands gets stroked unlubricated. Unless desperate adversity dictates otherwise. Oh, the locking lugs of a bolt actions stand ready to gall by a thoughtless shooter. Especially the shooter who uses his bolt action as the final sizing die of his handload.
David Bradshaw
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Post by maxcactus on Apr 9, 2021 0:27:40 GMT -5
JM IS RIGHT ON--CALL LES BAER. ***** As a footnote, many years ago, Les Baer told me stainless can’t be fit as tight as carbon steel without galling. David Bradshaw Thank you all. I had emailed Baer customer service for the info and was waiting on a response. I'm sure they have bigger fish to fry. I was just hoping to take the new tool to the range this weekend for a test drive. Mr. Bradshaw, you're certainly correct about the fitting of stainless. My new 1911 is very nicely fitted, but not quite as snug and challenging to rack the slide as other Baers I've handled. No worries. I bought this as a utilitarian working tool. Range report forthcoming as time permits. |
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Post by bradshaw on Apr 9, 2021 10:01:33 GMT -5
***** As a footnote, many years ago, Les Baer told me stainless can’t be fit as tight as carbon steel without galling. David Bradshaw Thank you all. I had emailed Baer customer service for the info and was waiting on a response. I'm sure they have bigger fish to fry. I was just hoping to take the new tool to the range this weekend for a test drive. Mr. Bradshaw, you're certainly correct about the fitting of stainless. My new 1911 is very nicely fitted, but not quite as snug and challenging to rack the slide as other Baers I've handled. No worries. I bought this as a utilitarian working tool. Range report when forthcoming as time permits. ***** maxcactus.... I’d head to the range, burn powder. I would NOT fire the pistol dry. Oil or oil & moly mix applied to: * Frame----rails, disconnector area. * Slide----rails, locking lug area, bushing area, disconnector notch. * Bushing----in & out. * Barrel----locking lugs, link, muzzle. Between two things, oil or no oil, there is no choice. David Bradshaw |
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Post by cas on Apr 10, 2021 18:46:22 GMT -5
My blue/stainless Baer said the same thing about not cleaning or oiling prior to whatever amount of rounds. I think they might want it a tad "dry", mine seemed the same. Probably to continue lapping in whatever they put on it when the hammered it together. I don't think I waited the full 300 rounds, maybe half. But the gun was functioning 100% right out of the gate, so I wasn't concerned. Many people say a Baer is too tight to use grease. So I use grease.  I don't "clean" my semi autos often, but I do "change the oil" (grease actually) very regularly. After a range session or two (or after a match for the applicable guns) I wipe the frame rails clean, wipe the feed ramp off, re-grease the frame rails and put it back together. Externally they get oil of course. |
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Post by rjm52 on Apr 11, 2021 15:59:51 GMT -5
Have been using the SHOOTER CHOICE grease in the syringe since it came out...in both semis and revolvers...never a problem no matter how cold or hot it was out...
About 15 years ago a friend who is now a Lieutenant for his department of about 100 men was their Firearms Training Officer. He called one day and said their SIG pistols were having a lot of failure to cycle problems during quals. The officers qualified every 6 months and most of the guns were never shot or cleaned between quals.
I asked what they were lubing their guns with and he said oil... I told him that the oil was migrating toward the muzzle and drying out during the 6 months of unuse.. Told him to switch to grease... He did and when I next saw him hunting he said the problem with cycling disappeared...
I believe AMT was the first all stainless 1911...Saw one of the early guns in a shop that had about 1000 rounds through it..it was looser than a WWI 1911...
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dhd
.327 Meteor
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Post by dhd on Apr 12, 2021 11:45:48 GMT -5
My blue/stainless Baer said the same thing about not cleaning or oiling prior to whatever amount of rounds. I think they might want it a tad "dry", mine seemed the same. Probably to continue lapping in whatever they put on it when the hammered it together. I don't think I waited the full 300 rounds, maybe half. But the gun was functioning 100% right out of the gate, so I wasn't concerned. Many people say a Baer is too tight to use grease. So I use grease. I don't "clean" my semi autos often, but I do "change the oil" (grease actually) very regularly. After a range session or two (or after a match for the applicable guns) I wipe the frame rails clean, wipe the feed ramp off, re-grease the frame rails and put it back together. Externally they get oil of course. I laughed when I read the first paragraphs last sentence. They tend to be on the tight side don't they. |
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gregs
.30 Stingray
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Post by gregs on Apr 18, 2021 22:27:35 GMT -5
FP10 works well tightening 1911 slides during lapping and post tightening to prevent galling until surfaces are mated and worn in.
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