Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2021 10:50:10 GMT -5
I'm wanting to strip the anodizing from a Ruger grip frame. I've read that Grease Lightning cleaner works because it has sodium hydroxide? I've never tried this, so hoping to get good suggestion. How did Skeeter do it? Thanks.
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Post by tdbarton on Feb 28, 2021 10:58:34 GMT -5
Solution of warm water and drain cleaner. A couple tablespoons of cleaner per gallon on water. Then polish.
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JM
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Post by JM on Feb 28, 2021 11:00:40 GMT -5
Brake fluid?
Sure strips paint fast, not sure about anodized parts.
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Post by bullseye on Feb 28, 2021 11:07:18 GMT -5
I tried the Greased Lightning method a couple of years ago when I was feeling too lazy to change out the media in my blast cabinet. It works great, just don't soak it too long or it'll cause some unsightly pitting. (I tried it on a scrap piece of aluminum first) A half hour to 45 minutes tops will suffice, then scrub it down with Dawn dish soap & polish.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2021 12:48:26 GMT -5
Thank you for responding. I will give the suggestions a try.
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Post by x101airborne on Feb 28, 2021 14:37:06 GMT -5
Is that the black stuff that flakes off Ruger aluminum frames? I didn't think anodizing flaked off. I thought it was just a baked on paint.
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jeffh
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Post by jeffh on Mar 3, 2021 17:52:53 GMT -5
Is that the black stuff that flakes off Ruger aluminum frames? I didn't think anodizing flaked off. I thought it was just a baked on paint. I've always though the same thing. Seems too thick to be paint too.
I'm watching this because i have one to strip also. Not sure if I'll leave it "natural" or paint it.
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Post by bullseye on Mar 3, 2021 18:04:42 GMT -5
I guess the OP took his ball & went home?
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Post by x101airborne on Mar 3, 2021 19:25:53 GMT -5
Dunno.
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Post by tdbarton on Mar 3, 2021 21:29:03 GMT -5
Is that the black stuff that flakes off Ruger aluminum frames? I didn't think anodizing flaked off. I thought it was just a baked on paint. I've always though the same thing. Seems too thick to be paint too.
I'm watching this because i have one to strip also. Not sure if I'll leave it "natural" or paint it.
Honestly, if it was mine - I’d hit it with a scotchbrite pad then polish it to 600-800ish
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Post by needsmostuff on Mar 4, 2021 9:26:53 GMT -5
Some of the confusion comes from TWO different coatings possible . Older guns are Anodized , newer guns are Cerakoted . Anodizing can be striped with chemicals , Cerakoting requires abrasives .
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jeffh
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Post by jeffh on Mar 6, 2021 13:11:12 GMT -5
Some of the confusion comes from TWO different coatings possible . Older guns are Anodized , newer guns are Cerakoted . Anodizing can be striped with chemicals , Cerakoting requires abrasives . Hmmmm.... Thanks. I'd never even thought of that.
I've had a bunch of these and never scrutinized them hard enough to ever have noticed if there were differences in appearance. The only reason I even thought about it now is that a few years ago, I bought a used XR3-RED(ish)* aluminum grip frame from Numrich for my Flat Top 44 Special and fitted it - having removed some of the finish in the process. NOW I have to do the whole thing, but have put it off - too many priorities keep jumping line on me. If I can get to it before this thread gets too old, I'll report what worked on this one.
*The grip frame is the same shape as an XR3-RED, and takes the same grip panels, but it said something other than specifically "XR3-RED."
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Post by bradshaw on Mar 6, 2021 13:49:50 GMT -5
Note on anodizing: the electro-chemical process surface hardens aluminum. Other can chime in on technical aspects. Based on its alloy and whether it is heat treated, aluminum comes in a great range of strengths and hardness. Ruger aluminum grip frames probably are all soft, as the stress of recoil is so well spread and there is no need for alloy of a proper revolver or auto pistol frame. Bare soft aluminum rubs off and will blacken one’s hand. Strong, heat treated aluminum alloy does not do this. I would be apprehensive of removing anodizing from an aluminum revolver frame, such as S&W’s so-called “scandium.” To remove the anodize might expose the frame to abrasion, with peening of standing breech from the cylinder.
Tiltall makes my favorite tripod for a spotting scope or camera. It is all-aluminum and has been in continuous manufacture since right after WW II. Mine dates to before anodizing was offered. Adjusting the tube aluminum legs is sure to blacken my hands. Oil paint applied over the years partially eliminates the rub-off. Anodizing was introduced to the Tiltall decades ago, a much neater arrangement.
Since aluminum grip frames are soft, the question arises, will the bare aluminum grip frame blacken your hand or stain clothing? David Bradshaw
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Post by needsmostuff on Mar 6, 2021 15:27:50 GMT -5
Since aluminum grip frames are soft, the question arises, will the bare aluminum grip frame blacken your hand or stain clothing? David Bradshaw[/quote Mine have never blackened hands or rubbed off on anything . When buffed to a high shine they do not seem to dull or oxidize. When doing the bodywork on them they do not feel like a soft aluminum .
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jeffh
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Post by jeffh on Mar 6, 2021 15:58:05 GMT -5
Good info, bradshaw and needsmostuff ! I get that - understand it. Anodized aluminum does not leave black residue - and a lot of stuff is anodized these days, and with a wonderful array of color. I think I might look into having my grip frame anodized, whether I leave it "natural" or black, because I"m guessing SOMEONE ha to be offering such a service these days. I have also read, over and over, that aluminum naturally oxidizes within seconds of being cut and exposed to air and leaves a surface like anodizing so that it won't further oxidize. I don't know if it surface hardens like anodizing, but if you think of aluminum oxide..... pretty hard stuff. I'll get the coloration of my grip frame by whatever means and see what I can find out regarding anodizing services. If I can do that reasonably, I'll do it, otherwise, I may just experiment with paint.
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