JM
.375 Atomic
Posts: 2,423
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Post by JM on Sept 15, 2020 19:20:02 GMT -5
Seeking sites/links with G1 Contender tech. I had a few on my old computer, but lost them in the data transfer.
Specifically, what causes/prevents the hammer from latching up/remaining cocked? After I open & close the action, the hammer will not remain cocked after thumbing rear-ward. The trigger will reset & does release with a click.
Thank you.
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Post by seminolewind on Sept 15, 2020 19:39:51 GMT -5
First thing I would check is the sear adjustment screw on the trigger. It may be adjusted in too much.
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Post by gemihur on Sept 15, 2020 20:11:04 GMT -5
1. Try a washer on your grip pillar bolt. Sometimes they invade the space in the frame needed for full flight to cock and lock hammer back. 2. While holding hammer back, pull trigger while watching in front of hammer and see if the hammer block safety is sliding down. Great resource = www.encoreclassifieds.com/forum/index.php?t=i&Good Luck, Sir
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Post by Encore64 on Sept 16, 2020 3:32:56 GMT -5
Usually the barrel just not locking up correctly. Slam it shut a little harder.
I've also polished a little off the top of the locking lugs with a Dremel.
Huey
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JM
.375 Atomic
Posts: 2,423
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Post by JM on Sept 16, 2020 22:05:34 GMT -5
The plot thickens. Discovered this problem is related to my MGM (Match Grade Machine) barrel. When I swapped another barrel onto the frame, it operates correctly.
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Post by Encore64 on Sept 17, 2020 4:37:46 GMT -5
Not uncommon these days. Still generally the locking lugs not seating fully.
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Post by gemihur on Sept 17, 2020 10:28:17 GMT -5
I concur with Bobcat that dressing the upper face of the locking lug smooths the extraction of the lug from the frame's 'table' at opening But hammer not staying back?... You should be able to do that without a barrel on frame! Something is not allowing lock back at hammer cock
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Post by Encore64 on Sept 17, 2020 10:37:46 GMT -5
I concur with Bobcat that dressing the upper face of the locking lug smooths the extraction of the lug from the frame's 'table' at opening But hammer not staying back?... You should be able to do that without a barrel on frame! Something is not allowing lock back at hammer cock Not on the G1 Action...
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Post by gemihur on Sept 17, 2020 11:36:57 GMT -5
I only have original contender frames and yes the hammer may be cocked fully and locks back without a barrel in the frame Something is hinky with JM's setup, either grip bolt is too long and is inhibiting mechanism inside or something is broke in there I agree the hammer won't stay back if you've let it down after cocking without rebreaking the action but he says it won't stay back when cocking after break. technically there is only original contender and G2 frames variations exist in the contenders but not G2's P.S. If polishing the top face of the locking lugs... DO NOT USE A DREMEL OR A FILE! Use a stone as you would to sharpen a knife, the finer the better. You can't put that metal back. Replace and check lock up and opening function frequently until satisfied with fit.
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JM
.375 Atomic
Posts: 2,423
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Post by JM on Sept 17, 2020 13:39:31 GMT -5
I just spoke with MGM & they are sending out a new set of locking lugs. Hopefully this will resolve the problem.
The action operates correctly with a T/C barrel, but not with the MGM barrel. The hammer will not latch up without a barrel installed. I was told the locking lugs must extend into the frame window enough to engage some form of interlock that allows the hammer to latch up in the full cock position.
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Post by Encore64 on Sept 17, 2020 13:58:17 GMT -5
"I was told the locking lugs must extend into the frame window enough to engage some form of interlock that allows the hammer to latch up in the full cock position."
Yes and this is what I've posted above. The barrel must be in place and lugs fully back for the action to function.
Good luck with the new lugs. Please keep us posted.
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Post by gemihur on Sept 17, 2020 17:37:36 GMT -5
All my frames will cock the hammer without benefit of a barrel or even a closed action. The lugs do have to extend thru the window and detent the 'butterfly' which allows the hammer block safety to fall when the trigger is pulled that the designated firing pin can strike the case. But holding the hammer back... that's another matter.
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Post by bradshaw on Sept 17, 2020 21:41:39 GMT -5
The Contender SPLIT BOLT was developed for better contact against the bottom of the STANDING BREECH. The original bolt was one-piece. The standing breech acts as the action’s locking lug abutment----same job as the abutments in the receiver ring of a rifle. As Warren Center explained, engagement angles of bolt and abutment differ slightly. The angled surface of the bolt contacts the corner of the abutment. Otherwise----if abutment and bolt were cut at same angle----friction would cause the action to seize shut.
The WATER TABLE, as Warren Center described, is the cradle projecting from standing breech, on which the barrel rests. The term comes from tip-open shotguns. That’s the way I heard it from the gun’s inventor. David Bradshaw
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JM
.375 Atomic
Posts: 2,423
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Post by JM on Sept 17, 2020 23:07:51 GMT -5
All my frames will cock the hammer without benefit of a barrel or even a closed action. I was able to check out another Contender today. Gemihur is correct. That one will cock with the action open.
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JM
.375 Atomic
Posts: 2,423
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Post by JM on Sept 18, 2020 22:13:59 GMT -5
Called Bellm today. www.bellmtcs.comHave a spring replacement kit & over-size hinge pin on the way. I'm awaiting the parts arrival before I disassemble & clean. Sounds like the sear spring has fatigued/failed.
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