Bagby
.30 Stingray
Posts: 168
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Post by Bagby on Jun 18, 2020 14:28:48 GMT -5
I went to start fitting my Wells No.5 brass grip frame today. And realized I don’t have any of the hex head screws For the back of the grip frame in my parts stash.
I looked at Midway and Brownells and both are out of stock. And Numrich only has one in stock.
Anyone have a lead on where I can get a pair of these screws?
Thanks, Jonathan.
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Post by leadhound on Jun 18, 2020 14:37:55 GMT -5
Call Ruger, hell they might send em for free, just need a serial number for a bisley model.
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rkrcpa
.30 Stingray
Posts: 259
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Post by rkrcpa on Jun 18, 2020 15:24:04 GMT -5
For what it's worth, my Bisley came with regular slotted screws when I purchased it NIB in 1987. Use whatever you can get, you won't see them when the grips are installed.
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Post by bradshaw on Jun 18, 2020 22:09:13 GMT -5
Jonathan.... the five mounting holes of a Ronnie Wells Grip Frame line up so correctly, just drop the screw(s) into the countersunk holes, rotate counter-clockwise until the “click” of indexing threads and turn clockwise. According to Ronnie, Ruger has always been precise in locating grip-frame holes. The mount holes in a Wells grip-frame are precisely located to index the Ruger hole pattern.
Screws holding a steel grip-frame loosen much faster than screws holding a brass grip-frame.
Slotted screws should work with a proper screwdriver. David Bradshaw
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weiler
.30 Stingray
Posts: 423
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Post by weiler on Jun 19, 2020 7:51:40 GMT -5
last month i needed to replace a broken transfer bar on my flattop 44 special, i had slightly buggered a hex screw on the first tear down. Ruger very kindly sent me two replacements free of charge
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Post by leftysixgun on Jun 19, 2020 12:27:52 GMT -5
I think ordered a box from McMaster Carr. Id have to look to be sure. Off the top of my head I cant remember the pitch and length. If I have them, I can send some to you.
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Bagby
.30 Stingray
Posts: 168
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Post by Bagby on Jun 19, 2020 19:51:43 GMT -5
Thanks for all the reply’s folks.
rkrcpa and Mr. Bradshaw. Thanks for the suggestion. It was so obvious but it never occurred to me To try the slotted screws. I tried them this morning and they fit well. However, None of the screwdrivers I was able to scrounge up around here can get a good Enough angle of attack to tighten them.
leftysixgun. Thank you for the Offer. PM sent.
Thanks, Jonathan.
Edit to fix typo.
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Post by RDW on Jun 21, 2020 10:57:32 GMT -5
Hey Jonathon. The standard screws work well. Just get the right screwdriver. The holes are machined to give just enough clearance to get it in there buddy! Brass and aluminum give a little, and act as a spring washer always holding tension on the screw. I have had many a screw loosen up on steel to steel. But never on brass! Gentlemen like Bradshaw have pounded lead on targets to the point of non stop testing of the integrity of these single actions and i bounce theory off of him on a continual basis. He is a walking library of experience and knowledge with these firearms and their history. We have come to the conclusion that if the steel frame, and grip frame dont squeese or compress under the tightened screw, Then the screw has to be so tight due to the harmonics involved, it will eventually back out and they do. We have both noticed that the brass frames never do. Aluminum as well. I believe the angle of attack on the Ruger Bisley frame screws as well as the fact that the screws loosen is the reason that they (Ruger) went with a socket head screw. Its easier to get a good bite on a small allen head at the angle you have to get to it with! The screws dont give on the softer materials. Snugem up real good and you wont have any trouble. R
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Post by bradshaw on Jun 21, 2020 13:59:17 GMT -5
Hey Jonathon. The standard screws work well. Just get the right screwdriver. The holes are machined to give just enough clearance to get it in there buddy! Brass and aluminum give a little, and act as a spring washer always holding tension on the screw. I have had many a screw loosen up on steel to steel. But never on brass! Gentlemen like Bradshaw have pounded lead on targets to the point of non stop testing of the integrity of these single actions and i bounce theory off of him on a continual basis. He is a walking library of experience and knowledge with these firearms and their history. We have come to the conclusion that if the steel frame, and grip frame dont squeese or compress under the tightened screw, Then the screw has to be so tight due to the harmonics involved, it will eventually back out and they do. We have both noticed that the brass frames never do. Aluminum as well. I believe the angle of attack on the Ruger Bisley frame screws as well as the fact that the screws loosen is the reason that they (Ruger) went with a socket head screw. Its easier to get a good bite on a small allen head at the angle you have to get to it with! The screws dont give on the softer materials. Snugem up real good and you wont have any trouble. R ***** I’ve tried slot-heads for the concealed backstop screws on the RWGF Bison Hunter without problem, as Ronnie states. Nevertheless, my preference runs to the socket head for the backstrap screws, as tactile alignment is easier. And the socket head allows firm torque without jump. As Ronnie stated some while back, let me confirm the RW Grip Frame holes index brilliantly. Which confirms Ronnies observation Bill Ruger made consistent placement of the 5 grip frame holes in Ruger frames. The vibration saga surrounding high intensity cartridges is long, and at time tortured. Suffice to say, some of it must be experienced to be believed. David Bradshaw
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