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Post by willicd on May 11, 2020 12:33:07 GMT -5
I have always wanted a nice Smith 22 and happened into a beautiful model 17 a few years ago. The problem is, I hardly ever shoot it because it's such a PITA to eject fired casings! I have read this was an issue with some model 17's and that Smith would address it. How long would you expect them to have my cylinder if I sent it back?
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Post by taffin on May 11, 2020 12:43:26 GMT -5
WHAT ANYONE HERE EXPECTS MEANS NOTHING. CALL SMITH & WESSON
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Post by bradshaw on May 11, 2020 16:21:23 GMT -5
I have always wanted a nice Smith 22 and happened into a beautiful model 17 a few years ago. The problem is, I hardly ever shoot it because it's such a PITA to eject fired casings! I have read this was an issue with some model 17's and that Smith would address it. How long would you expect them to have my cylinder if I sent it back? ***** Careful cleaning with solvent & bronze or copper .22 rifle brush would be my first order of business. A .22 rifle brush is longer than the pistol brush, works harder and lasts longer. With chambers cleaned, a dry as a cork leg, I would em the eyeball with Optivisor or other magnification. There should be no waviness to the chambers. During a session with a M-17 or M-34, I dry-brush the chambers as chambering rounds & extracting cases stiffens. It is the nature of .22 revolver chambers to foul, some more than other, and some ammunition, also. Reckon S&W or an attentive smith would want the whole gun/ David Bradshaw |
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Post by cas on May 11, 2020 19:26:29 GMT -5
Did someone dry fire it a lot?
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Post by matt56 on May 11, 2020 20:19:47 GMT -5
There were some reports that you could fix the tight chamber with a reamer. I don’t know the specifics however
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Post by paul105 on May 11, 2020 21:04:51 GMT -5
Here's the finish reamer recommended by a couple "gunsmiths" on the Smith & Wesson Forum.  .  .  I chickened out and never used it -- sent my two early 1950s K22s to Jack Huntington problem fixed. Paul |
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Post by ddixie884 on May 11, 2020 21:16:48 GMT -5
That is the word on the S&W forum........
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Post by bradshaw on May 12, 2020 7:45:40 GMT -5
Did someone dry fire it a lot? ***** Dry fire should not bother a K-22. The firing pin falls inside the rim counterbore without contact. S&W firing pins tend to be very durable. That said, it’s my preference to dry fire on fired cases, rotated around until the rim is pretty well beat. Paul105.... nor would I touch a reamer to a Smith & Wesson chamber. David Bradshaw |
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Post by cas on May 12, 2020 9:43:58 GMT -5
If things are right.  I bought my S&W 18 for what was a hell of a deal, because things weren't right. (not a firing pin protrusion issue, but the action had a hitch in the giddie-up from the factory. Dealer had it for years(?) because no one would buy it like it was. Why they didn't send it back I do not know,) |
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Post by bigmuddy on May 12, 2020 15:46:41 GMT -5
I sure wouldn’t try to talk anyone into using the finish reamer shown above, but I did it to mine as did my brother. Both guns now load and eject easily and accuracy was not affected. The amount of metal removed is quite minimal.
Dan
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Post by matt56 on May 12, 2020 19:05:46 GMT -5
First I would want to inspect hard to eject cases to make sure they’re not bulged or damaged in any way. Then I would want to try and shoot one round in each different chamber to see if all or just one or two are sticky. If only a couple chambers are sticky then I’d give the finish reamer a go. I might be inclined to let a pro handle it if it’s any more involved
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Post by willicd on May 12, 2020 20:31:50 GMT -5
I will be notified when the reamer is back in stock at Brownells. After more research, this is a very common issue on the S&W forum and that's the solution.
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Post by pattontime on Jun 12, 2020 20:51:02 GMT -5
I recently purchased the Manson 22 LR cylinder Reamer through Brownells after watching guys on S & W forum rave about it.
I have done a number of my guns, it is quite easy, use lots of proper cutting oil and NEVER turn the reamer counter clockwise as it damages/dull it.
I am no gunsmith but was very very pleased with how it went, lots of variations is what I found, some guns were better than others, found only one that was perfect as is
a stainless Model 63 4", I believe a previous owner had done the same thing, reamed the chambers.
I once bought a Model 34 on Gunbroker that was 30 or more years old, seller said unfired, they were not kidding, I could not find a brand of ammo that would enter the chambers.
On that one I did said it to S&W, they said no warranty coverage but they would take a look.
Back at my business in less than two week, perfect chambers.
this stuff is common in mass produced products, I built an AR back in Obama days, chamber was cut so poorly, I bought a reamer and fixed it.
My 22 LR revolvers are so much more fun to shoot now !!!
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nicholst55
.375 Atomic
Retired, twice.
Posts: 1,039
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Post by nicholst55 on Jun 13, 2020 8:32:10 GMT -5
I will be notified when the reamer is back in stock at Brownells. After more research, this is a very common issue on the S&W forum and that's the solution. There was a reamer for sale on the S&W forum yesterday, complete with T-Handle and cutting oil. I see it's gone (sold), now.
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Post by AxeHandle on Jun 14, 2020 13:56:46 GMT -5
On the "Dry Fire" note. The extended firing pins look very much like the original. The Cylinder and Slide extended firing pin package is marked, in small letters, "Do not dry fire without snap caps." If the gun is fired without snap caps the extended firing pin will mark the edge of the chamber ever so slightly and make extraction difficult. It is almost invisible on the cylinder. Look for evidence in the form of a drag line down the side of a fired case. Chambers are easily fixed with a light stroke with a fine rat tailed file.
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