Post by danno on Apr 15, 2020 21:54:13 GMT -5
As I mentioned in my intro thread, I'm starting a field gun project using a Ruger Blackhawk. Since this is my first single-action project, and I'm going to try to do as much of the work as I can, I thought it would be fun to document the process. The plan is, in no particular order:
I'll address a few of the line items both for information and my own recollection. My plan is to have the ejector rod work well enough to get a fingernail under the cartridge rim - I figure all I need is maybe 3mm. In service of this, to get the shortest barrel possible, I'll make the "grip" of the base pin as short as possible to allow more rod travel. Since the base pin will have to be removed to remove the cylinder, I'll make an inlet on the ejector rod housing with an end mill, to turn the ejector rod so the base pin can fit out past it (not my idea, from an old gunblast article where he does the same thing to his Freedom Arms 97).
I know the combo of Bisley hammer and trigger with birds head grips is unusual, probably because people tend to choke up on birds head grips and the low Bisley hammer would bite you under heavy recoil. Due to my fairly large hands though, I tend to grip the gun fairly low, with a pinky under the grip, so a lower hammer is better for single-handed shooting. I think it won't be a problem.
If anybody has any experience with shortening the ejector rod housing I'd like to hear from you - the easy way to do it would just be to cut the muzzle end at the appropriate length and let the screw prevent the ejector rod from exiting to the fore - but there must be a more elegant solution than that.
The parts of this I anticipate needing done by a gunsmith are: drilling and tapping the hole in the barrel for the ejector rod housing screw - I don't have precise enough equipment and I don't want to overrun that hole with my drill press. The finish - I'll probably do a Cerakote type finish and I want it to look good. Perhaps soldering on the front sight - I haven't looked into how to do that yet, but surely it can't be that hard.
So without further ado, some pictures!
The donor - it's a 1980 manufactured New Blackhawk. It's not stainless, it was a blued gun, but the previous owner polished the finish off for a project that never grew legs. It works well for me since I don't have to polish the warning off the barrel, he did it for me. It's got its beauty marks, but mechanically is sound.
Grips off and cylinder out:
And initial tear-down complete:
All the little bits and bobs:
Next steps: figure out exactly how long the barrel needs to be for the ejector rod to work, heat up the solder and knock off the front sight, then cut and crown the barrel. Stay tuned!
- Cut barrel as short as possible and maintain some use of ejector rod
- Fit birds head grip frame
- Fit Bisley-style hammer and trigger
- Highly corrosion-resistant firearm finish
- Replace springs/service internals as needed
I'll address a few of the line items both for information and my own recollection. My plan is to have the ejector rod work well enough to get a fingernail under the cartridge rim - I figure all I need is maybe 3mm. In service of this, to get the shortest barrel possible, I'll make the "grip" of the base pin as short as possible to allow more rod travel. Since the base pin will have to be removed to remove the cylinder, I'll make an inlet on the ejector rod housing with an end mill, to turn the ejector rod so the base pin can fit out past it (not my idea, from an old gunblast article where he does the same thing to his Freedom Arms 97).
I know the combo of Bisley hammer and trigger with birds head grips is unusual, probably because people tend to choke up on birds head grips and the low Bisley hammer would bite you under heavy recoil. Due to my fairly large hands though, I tend to grip the gun fairly low, with a pinky under the grip, so a lower hammer is better for single-handed shooting. I think it won't be a problem.
If anybody has any experience with shortening the ejector rod housing I'd like to hear from you - the easy way to do it would just be to cut the muzzle end at the appropriate length and let the screw prevent the ejector rod from exiting to the fore - but there must be a more elegant solution than that.
The parts of this I anticipate needing done by a gunsmith are: drilling and tapping the hole in the barrel for the ejector rod housing screw - I don't have precise enough equipment and I don't want to overrun that hole with my drill press. The finish - I'll probably do a Cerakote type finish and I want it to look good. Perhaps soldering on the front sight - I haven't looked into how to do that yet, but surely it can't be that hard.
So without further ado, some pictures!
The donor - it's a 1980 manufactured New Blackhawk. It's not stainless, it was a blued gun, but the previous owner polished the finish off for a project that never grew legs. It works well for me since I don't have to polish the warning off the barrel, he did it for me. It's got its beauty marks, but mechanically is sound.
Grips off and cylinder out:
And initial tear-down complete:
All the little bits and bobs:
Next steps: figure out exactly how long the barrel needs to be for the ejector rod to work, heat up the solder and knock off the front sight, then cut and crown the barrel. Stay tuned!