petep
.30 Stingray
Central Alabama
Posts: 453
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Post by petep on Jan 12, 2020 12:26:47 GMT -5
When shooting coated bullets in your revolver have you noticed any performance differences in the various colors? Is one color "tougher" than others especially when fired through different throat dimensions in different revolvers?
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Post by oddshooter on Jan 12, 2020 12:56:07 GMT -5
I assume you are talking about powder coating.
You've raised an interesting question. I've noticed how the different colors do not have the same adhesion qualities. Some colors just seem to give better coverage of the bullet and look thicker when done. It's not unreasonable to assume there could be a difference in how they go down the barrel.
I have never noticed anything myself, but I've never looked. I use a dozen colors and I will begin to watch now that you've raised the question. SixShot may have more experience than most and could chime in here. His posts are certainly what got me started with PC. An excellent gentleman if there ever was one.
Prescut
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Post by x101airborne on Jan 12, 2020 13:48:02 GMT -5
Interesting. Never thought about it. Next batch I do I may have to do some sperimentin.
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petep
.30 Stingray
Central Alabama
Posts: 453
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Post by petep on Jan 12, 2020 14:09:18 GMT -5
I would like to see some actual info.The reason I ask is I have noticed red powder coating not fouling my forcing cone in one particular revolver where I do get fouling with "gold" bullets ,same size and hardness.
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Post by bradshaw on Jan 16, 2020 11:18:04 GMT -5
I would like to see some actual info.The reason I ask is I have noticed red powder coating not fouling my forcing cone in one particular revolver where I do get fouling with "gold" bullets ,same size and hardness. ***** petep.... from info presented, your red works better than the gold. Different pigments may react differently to plastic medium and the heat of cooking. Obey your experiment. David Bradshaw
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Post by sixshot on Jan 16, 2020 13:30:55 GMT -5
petep, what I've found is that different colors sometimes require different lengths of heating time in the toaster oven to get equal coverage. What works best for red might not be long enough for black, etc. I'm using red, white, blue & black & while most of them are close to the same amount of "toaster" time, they aren't the same.
You can tell not only visually but also when you run them through the sizer, some will size a bit tighter, that tells you your coating is thicker (better) with one color than another. Take note of what you feel when you size & perhaps either use more paint when you're coating or bake longer in your oven.
I have to bake my black bullets longer than I do my Harbor freight red to get an equal looking bullet. Hope this helps.
Dick
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Jan 16, 2020 23:40:55 GMT -5
Maybe not what you're asking about, but clear tends to go on thinnest even though it is fully coated.
The only metallic color I have is a translucent copper and it's about half clear. I've never looked at the SDS on the metallics and maybe they have something metallic in them to make it that tint (probably a mica like substance though). I'm most definitely not a chemical engineer!
I'm up to about 9 colors now and tend to add at least 1/3 clear to everything to add a translucent look and every color is high gloss. Mine all bake for the same time, but they are all fully cured. I use a very light spray of Hornady's One Shot so I dont feel anything but the gas check.
I've never noticed any difference in velocities, groups, or fouling that I could attribute to color. All I know is I don't care for the look of metallics and that's as scientific as I can get.
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petep
.30 Stingray
Central Alabama
Posts: 453
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Post by petep on Jan 17, 2020 5:02:09 GMT -5
Thank you much for all the help!I will try the red and see if there is any long term difference in fouling.
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Post by contender on Jan 17, 2020 10:21:02 GMT -5
Dick is right,, (again.) I use different colors for different calibers now. I started with HF red,, but have expanded into being color specific for calibers. As noted,, some colors do seem to coat differently,, and I also use different cooking times when it is necessary.
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Post by oddshooter on Jan 17, 2020 11:38:27 GMT -5
I have wandered into the 32 camp and my loads are from mouse farts to fire breathing dragons. I don't want my hot 32's intended for a new Ruger Blackhawk 8 tank (45,000psi) to wind up in an old 1900 vintage six gun (12,000cup).
Other calibers are worse, like the 45. At least the 32's have case length differences as a precaution. 45's have no such difference. Mild and wild can look exactly the same.
So I'm using PC color coding to indicate HOT and mild. It's already kept me out of trouble once. Fire red is hot and ice blue is mild.
Prescut My 2 colors bullets, one color over the other, can look like dripping flames that are quite cute. Artist stuff.
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Post by apolitical45 on Jan 17, 2020 11:42:32 GMT -5
I have wandered into the 32 camp and my loads are from mouse farts to fire breathing dragons. I don't want my hot 32's intended for a new Ruger Blackhawk 8 tank (45,000psi) to wind up in an old 1900 vintage six gun (12,000cup). Other calibers are worse, like the 45. At least the 32's have case length differences as a precaution. 45's have no such difference. Mild and wild can look exactly the same. So I'm using PC color coding to indicate HOT and mild. It's already kept me out of trouble once. Fire red is hot and ice blue is mild. Prescut I am just starting and have yet to even coat my first batch, but this sounds like a great idea. I mark my loads properly on the box, but having the PC also denote the power level adds an additional layer of safety and assurance.
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Post by oddshooter on Jan 17, 2020 11:50:12 GMT -5
I strongly recommend you find the Powder Coating thread on here where Six Shot gets into details. Dick knows his stuff. He even still has some of the unobtainable Harbor Freight red.
I've had a ball learning PC, and the benefits are clearly seen. I've even gotten into finishing one color and then using a different color on just the top of the bullet and then rebake. Drips, speckles, and psychedelic results are something different to play with.
Prescut
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Post by wheelguns on Jan 17, 2020 12:02:35 GMT -5
I used to experiment with colors. I have a 9mm mold that casts at 357 and I wanted to try some 358 in one of my carry 38spl’s. So decided that 2 coats was called for. First coat was yellow green, followed by a coat of black. These looked like zombie killers big time. Then I tried some with a coat of red followed by a coat of black, and these looked they were pre-bloodied. After the coat of black just enough of the base coat showed to make them speckled. The initial experimentation phase wore off, and now I mix equal parts black and white for kind of a speckled grey color that looks like concrete. I will use this until I am out of these colors. The sky is the limit if you are so inclined.
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Post by Rimfire69 on Jan 18, 2020 7:59:29 GMT -5
I have wandered into the 32 camp and my loads are from mouse farts to fire breathing dragons. I don't want my hot 32's intended for a new Ruger Blackhawk 8 tank (45,000psi) to wind up in an old 1900 vintage six gun (12,000cup). Other calibers are worse, like the 45. At least the 32's have case length differences as a precaution. 45's have no such difference. Mild and wild can look exactly the same. So I'm using PC color coding to indicate HOT and mild. It's already kept me out of trouble once. Fire red is hot and ice blue is mild. Prescut My 2 colors bullets, one color over the other, can look like dripping flames that are quite cute. Artist stuff. My system is about the same. Blue is good to go in everything and red is Ruger only style loads. It’s easy identification and one more way to make sure nothing gets in my colts that’s not supposed to.
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