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Post by Quick Draw McGraw on Jan 12, 2020 2:22:27 GMT -5
I appreciate the help, cas and Zeus. Had a friend who used to repair aircraft in the Navy suggest using that white tape they use on plumbing pipes on the screw threads. Thoughts? I mean, it worked on aircraft. It seems a long shot, but it would be cheap and easy to try.
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Post by zeus on Jan 12, 2020 6:46:00 GMT -5
It will help some for vibration on the screws but will still come loose. I tried it one time on a FA gripframe. Iād check your screw lengths first and see how they measure compared to your screw holes but a call to SSK could help you a lot. Even with only 4 screws the TSOB may hold up better than current set up just due to weight and inertia issues.
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edk
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,105
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Post by edk on Jan 12, 2020 8:51:19 GMT -5
6 screws for most anything 30 cal and up for me. The additional cost is almost of no consequence if done at time of original build. With the 6 even steel bases seem to stay put.
With a lot of these heavy hitters being built on 1" straight tubes (unlike with a tapered barrel), the forward cantilevered base is not needed. If the base was constructed that way it could even be fitted with 8 screws.
With only 4 you can visualize using Zeus' photo there is no attachment from the scope turret forward. That's a lot of leverage if you imagine grabbing the forward bell and giving a yank.
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Post by Quick Draw McGraw on Jan 12, 2020 18:05:26 GMT -5
It will help some for vibration on the screws but will still come loose. I tried it one time on a FA gripframe. Iād check your screw lengths first and see how they measure compared to your screw holes but a call to SSK could help you a lot. Even with only 4 screws the TSOB may hold up better than current set up just due to weight and inertia issues. Dang, I was hoping that would work. Oh well. Still mulling over my options. Never hurts to listen, ask questions, and take your time in a decision when it isn't time sensitive.
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Post by whitworth on Jan 14, 2020 12:54:17 GMT -5
I'm a firm believer in red Loctite. I use it rather liberally and sometimes put it between the base and the gun itself. I too think you should contact SSK.
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Post by zeus on Jan 14, 2020 12:57:25 GMT -5
I'm a firm believer in red Loctite. I use it rather liberally and sometimes put it between the base and the gun itself. I too think you should contact SSK. I can say with confidence that your gunsmith grimaces a little when a gun of yours come in for repair if he has to fool with that šššš
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Post by whitworth on Jan 14, 2020 13:02:59 GMT -5
I'm a firm believer in red Loctite. I use it rather liberally and sometimes put it between the base and the gun itself. I too think you should contact SSK. I can say with confidence that your gunsmith grimaces a little when a gun of yours come in for repair if he has to fool with that šššš It's worth the extra insurance! Hahahaha!
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Post by jfs on Jan 14, 2020 14:12:25 GMT -5
So is a steel base and six properly drilled and tapped screw holes and screws....Had a base on heavy recoiling TC with four holes. Had six holes added and no more problem..
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Post by Sawfish on Mar 6, 2020 16:36:23 GMT -5
So is a steel base and six properly drilled and tapped screw holes and screws....Had a base on heavy recoiling TC with four holes. Had six holes added and no more problem.. I agree 100%. My standard mounting formula is a steel 6 screw base with four steel rings. Warne preferred for base and rings. Have yet to have one come loose.
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Post by flyingzebra on Mar 6, 2020 22:11:46 GMT -5
Whatever you choose to do, I suggest that you replace those screws with new screws. The impact from shooting the base loose twice has definitely done *something* to those screws.
Nothing wrong or difficult with new screws.
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