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Post by 45dragoon on Aug 20, 2019 21:03:58 GMT -5
Thanks David.
Mike (the Goon)
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Post by bigshooter on Oct 26, 2019 8:47:39 GMT -5
454Blaster, Are you the same 454Blaster that recently had a Volquartsen posted on GunBroker? Your posting timed out before I had the chance to bid. I can’t provide any advice on that revolver problem, but I can help with your budget to fix it by buying your Volquartsen.
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Post by 2450paul on Feb 6, 2020 21:13:26 GMT -5
Dang Mr. Bradshaw, I swear I'm not picking on you!! Lol But, I do want to set the record straight as to "carry-up" and "timing". "Carry-up" is essentially cylinder rotation but more precisely the "carrying up" of the chamber into battery. "Timing" is the "when" of the action parts performing their jobs as a function of the hammer being rotated to full cock. You could also add to this the return of the hammer to rest as the bolt arm (or hammer plunger in Ruger type actions) "resets" near the end of travel (since this is adjustable, it would be considered part of tuning as well). Timing is primarily marked as the "bolt drop", being early or late in respect to the locking notch "approach" (the ramp section preceding the notch). If there is no approach, typically 1 - 1 1/2 bolt widths before the notch (in a traditional Colt type action ). Bolt drop can only be set after the hand length has been set. Shortening or stretching the hand will influence the spot where the bolt drop occurs. Hand length is correct when the chamber is in battery when the sear engages the full cock notch and the bolt head fully engages the locking notch. Once that is found, bolt "drop" can be set. So, just for some clarification, there is a little difference between "carry-up" and "timing". As for the diagnosis for the O.P.s question, I agree that it is definitely a timing issue or possibly a hand spring issue. If the hand spring is weak or cracked, you will most likely experience throw-by (cyl over rotation). This would more likely occur during "normal " cycling as the braking force (the second job of the hand) is deminished or non-egistant. Cycling slow will keep the cyl momentum low and function correctly as will faster thumbing of the hammer because it will get to "end of cycle" and allow lockup. You're right though, it's much easier with the revolver in hand!! Mike
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Post by 2450paul on Feb 6, 2020 21:24:58 GMT -5
Mike aka 45dragoon, after reading your post I hope you can address a couple of issues I'm having with two different Ubertis. One, my .357 New Model Sheriff bolt stop comes up and tries to engage early and is contacting the cylinder at the beginning of the approach. Can it be retarded? Two, my .38-40 Bisley is difficult to get the sear to engage the full cock hammer notch. If I hard cock it sometimes it will engage. I'm not trying to hijack this thread I just saw your post and thought I'd better ask now before I got lost. This forums format is different than others I've used. Thanks, Paul
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Post by 45dragoon on Feb 8, 2020 0:09:28 GMT -5
2450paul, To your first question, "maybe". More than likely the bolt arm is sliding off the side of the hammer cam rather than the falling off the front. If you'll bend the left arm outward slightly which will apply some extra tension, it may "ride" the cam longer and drop off the front as it should.
To your second question, it sounds like the 2nd finger (lower) on the hand is a little "long" (high). You can lightly file the top surface of that finger and check often. Make sure you maintain any angle that is present. To make it easier, you can check your progress with the back strap and trigger guard removed. Drag a finger on the cylinder as you cycle for testing. If the hand uses a "spring and plunger" for the handspring, you may have to hold it in with your thumb (you'll get what I mean when the time comes) Don't rely on just gravity (by pointing the barrel down on the bench) to keep the hand against the ratchet while testing . . . use the spring and plunger (if applicable /needed).
Mike
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Post by 2450paul on Feb 8, 2020 20:31:53 GMT -5
Thank you sir. I appreciate your reply and will let you know what happens.
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Post by 2450paul on Feb 19, 2020 0:22:02 GMT -5
The first issuse I spread the bolt stop arm like you suggested and that was that. End of problem. I started thinking about the second problem and realized I had neglected to tell you the Bisley had a 5th click when cocking. Immeadiatly following the fourth click when the hammer was pulled back with more force than should be necessary. I'm not sure why but it felt like it was the trigger not fully engaging the full cock notch of the hammer. I took a hone stone and took took a little off the top of the trigger sear. I'm glad that worked. I got lucky this time. I do appreciate your help.
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Post by 45dragoon on Feb 19, 2020 20:57:31 GMT -5
2450paul, Glad that spreading the arm worked for you! Hopefully you caught it early enough that a "bad" wear pattern hasn't developed. As for the second fix, proof(!!) there's more than one way to fix a problem! Personally, I would have done the 2nd finger "reduction" on the hand fix. That would leave the trigger length alone (you typically want to fit everything in the longest "length of cycle" you can get. Length of cycle is from hammer down to full cock). Doing it my way though would possibly have involved adjusting the bolt drop as well. Good for you!! It's a minor"deviation" but it worked (apparently!) Just pay attention to the bolt head height when in half cock, if the sear is shortened too much, you may get a Ruger "beauty ring"!!
Mike
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Post by 2450paul on Feb 20, 2020 0:52:29 GMT -5
Thanks again!
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Post by 1047marquette on Apr 9, 2020 20:50:17 GMT -5
454blaster, did you try normal cycling with 2 weighted rounds next to each other (preferably dummies) and not dragging a finger? It could definitely be the handspring. Mike
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Post by 1047marquette on Apr 9, 2020 20:57:43 GMT -5
I'm new to the forum I recently purchased a United Sporting Arms Seville in 41mag it has a T for the last digit of the serial number these guns are beautiful the bluing is like nothing else it has a 6.5 inch barrel there are no holster Mark's just a fine turn line on the cylinder it is 1 of 59 41 magnums made in tombstone Arizona 1979 anyone have any idea of value
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Post by 1047marquette on Apr 9, 2020 21:01:24 GMT -5
I'm new to the forum I recently purchased a United Sporting Arms Seville in 41mag it has a T for the last digit of the serial number these guns are beautiful the bluing is like nothing else it has a 6.5 inch barrel there are no holster Mark's just a fine turn line on the cylinder it is 1 of 59 41 magnums made in tombstone Arizona 1979 anyone have any idea of value
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Post by 1047marquette on Apr 9, 2020 21:01:50 GMT -5
I'm new to the forum I recently purchased a United Sporting Arms Seville in 41mag it has a T for the last digit of the serial number these guns are beautiful the bluing is like nothing else it has a 6.5 inch barrel there are no holster Mark's just a fine turn line on the cylinder it is 1 of 59 41 magnums made in tombstone Arizona 1979 anyone have any idea of value
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Post by potatojudge on Apr 9, 2020 21:32:42 GMT -5
I'm new to the forum I recently purchased a United Sporting Arms Seville in 41mag it has a T for the last digit of the serial number these guns are beautiful the bluing is like nothing else it has a 6.5 inch barrel there are no holster Mark's just a fine turn line on the cylinder it is 1 of 59 41 magnums made in tombstone Arizona 1979 anyone have any idea of value I have the same gun and it’s nice. Only an auction will tell you value I think.
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Post by fbengineer on Apr 10, 2020 18:13:13 GMT -5
Great find, as I understand it the .41 is one of the more rare calibers....one that I haven't been able to source yet. I have a .43 Special, and agree the fit and finish are pristine.
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