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Post by whitworth on Nov 1, 2015 10:26:22 GMT -5
I think it would be a bit of a waste. These two revolvers come from the factory in large calibers (relatively speaking) -- from the factory is the key here. By all means they can be improved upon with grips, sight, tuning, etc. but they represent a pretty serious effort by Ruger. That said, do what you want, but there is a real "cool factor" (for lack of a better more coherent term) to these revolvers. I would personally choose any other model.....JMHO
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Post by CraigC on Nov 1, 2015 10:27:22 GMT -5
I agree. I'll probably have work done on both of mine but it will be limited to action tuning, sights and maybe a barrel chop. I see no valid reason to do a caliber conversion on one.
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Post by Encore64 on Nov 1, 2015 11:08:31 GMT -5
I think it would be a bit of a waste. These two revolvers come from the factory in large calibers (relatively speaking) -- from the factory is the key here. By all means they can be improved upon with grips, sight, tuning, etc. but they represent a pretty serious effort by Ruger. That said, do what you want, but there is a real "cool factor" (for lack of a better more coherent term) to these revolvers. I would personally choose any other model.....JMHO Agree completely. Cosmetic and Action enhancing to personal preference sounds great. But, as Ruger's first 5 Shot SA, along with the Carpenter (brand) steel cylinders and barrels, mine stay in factory calibers.
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aciera
.375 Atomic
Posts: 2,194
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Post by aciera on Nov 1, 2015 15:27:22 GMT -5
Sanity and rational decisions are everything in this hobby...... Absolutely..... The charts on dimensions is a target. Get a chamber large,OD small, hope pattern off.........together it's the perfect storm. Custom gun work is the elimination of variables......
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Post by whiterabbit on Nov 2, 2015 16:17:43 GMT -5
If it were my money, There is exactly one thing that would make the extra $2-300 worth it, and I don;t know the answer ot the question:
What is the frame material? If it is the same frame material as a standard blackhawk, my vote is not worth re-chambering a factory 454-480 ruger. if it's a stronger alloy (much like the barrels compared to standard) then I say (opinion) handily worth it. Might be overkill, but the added safety factor is nice peace of mind for a gun that one plans on shooting a lot.
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Post by CraigC on Nov 2, 2015 18:41:57 GMT -5
415 stainless, just like the rest.
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Post by whiterabbit on Nov 2, 2015 18:44:31 GMT -5
My vote is "not worth it"
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Post by whitworth on Nov 2, 2015 21:28:13 GMT -5
415 stainless, just like the rest. Yep.
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Post by Woodrow F Call on Nov 3, 2015 22:13:15 GMT -5
I don't see any reason to send a more expensive gun to get turned into a full blown custom. Nearly everything gets replaced except the frame for the full blown custom.... and you'd need to do the same for the Ruger 5 shots.
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Post by Alaskan454 on Nov 14, 2015 20:37:30 GMT -5
The 480/454 would make a great starting point IF you want a bit finer fit and finish without the cost of a new barrel and cylinder and still want gun chambered in 480 or 454. The full custom guns will only retain frame and grip for the most part and you won't save any money unless you retain the factory chambering from your donor. My question after reading the OPs post is how much improvement can be done to a factory 5 shot? I bet one of the top names could make it pretty nice with most of the factory parts retained.
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Post by whiterabbit on Nov 15, 2015 19:25:06 GMT -5
I dunno about finer fit and finish. Take a regular ruger, stretch the cylinder and turn to eliminate endplay, set barrel back and recut forcing cone to set BC gap, and finish is up to the builder. You now have fit and finisher second to none. At least after the new base pin, re-fitting an oversized cylinder latch, and fitting a new pawl. The lockwork should be like a vault at that point.
Only thing with "fit" you would be missing is the gap between the cylinder and frame.
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