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Post by Mark Terry on Aug 20, 2009 15:45:50 GMT -5
Ballistol contains medicinal grade mineral oil, alkaline salts of oleic acid, several alcohols, Benzyl Acetate and an oil from
vegetal seeds. The mineral oil is unchlorinated and conforms to the specifications of US Pharmacopeia XX.
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Post by boxhead on Aug 21, 2009 0:50:07 GMT -5
Beware Breakfree.... I have it from a good source that on a stored gun it will dry like a varnish... Is there any concern about grease on the front and rear of the cylinder trapping grit? Does oil in the lockwork trap trash? How about stainless and carbon steel guns? There was a time that we were careful to use nothing but synthetic lubes on stainless 1911s... I have been doing what I wrote above for years with no issues on stainleses or blued guns. I have read somewhere that John Linebaugh also recommends grease for and aft on the cylinder. |
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Post by J Miller on Aug 21, 2009 9:15:27 GMT -5
I have so many different oils it's pathetic. There are times I've been tempted to pour them all into the recycle jug and dispose of them. Then go buy one good oil. So far I haven't done that.
"Mostly" I use Marvel Mystery Oil on the internals, with a dab of white Lythium grease at the front and back of the cylinders. And a dab of grease on the hammer's bolt cam. ( Gunsmith suggested that. )
I don't know if that's too much, not enough, or just right.
Joe
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Post by sixshot on Aug 21, 2009 10:42:35 GMT -5
Tetra Gun grease for me, fore & aft on the cylinder & just a small drop on the base pin, then its just a wipe down. I very seldom every clean a barrel, they don't need it & this includes my competition revolvers. I do wipe out the cylinders & under the ejector star. Also, I never shoot jacketed bullets, ever.
Dick
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Madbo
.30 Stingray
Barranti Leather Co HS
Posts: 339
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Post by Madbo on Aug 21, 2009 18:05:47 GMT -5
FOR REVOLVER ACTIONS AND INTERNALS OF ANY SORT, THERE IS NOTHING BETTER THAN I'VE EVER FOUND THAN TRI-FLOW.
I DO NOT USE IT ON THE OUTSIDE OF MY GUNS.
I USE BARRICADE FOR OUTSIDE LUBRICATION AND SHORT TERM RUST PROTECTION.
MB
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Post by wickerbill on Aug 21, 2009 20:44:38 GMT -5
Hopies #9 Dry Lube with teflon. Spray it on and let it dry. It's slick as owl crap and would grab durt and grit.
Bill
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Shakey
.327 Meteor
Central Arkansas
Posts: 548
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Post by Shakey on Aug 22, 2009 1:05:17 GMT -5
I use a light coating of lithium grease (sometimes thinned with a little oil) on surfaces that operate with enough force that they do not need to be super slick, light oil on those that need to move freely, and Break Free to protect the outside. For light oil I have tried a number of products ...even automatic transmission fluid and motor oil... and they have all worked fine.
If I hunted where it was cold enough that the grease could be a problem, I'd use just light oil and not much of it.
I tend to over lube my guns but clean them often enough that the lube trapping debris has not been a problem. If they were getting gummed up with debris I'd again use just light oil and not much of it.
I used to use Break Free for everything but only use it for cleaning and surface protection now ... not lubricating. Like Axe said, it WILL gum up if you leave it too long.
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Post by hyvltge on Aug 23, 2009 23:07:24 GMT -5
Snake oil.
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Post by Mark Terry on Aug 24, 2009 21:20:41 GMT -5
Wished I'd thought of that......  |
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Post by Markbo on Aug 25, 2009 15:01:20 GMT -5
I bought a small can of red 'brake grease' many years back and realizing I would never use it all started to use it anywhere grease was needed on my guns. It works great. Stays where you put it and provides outstanding lubricity. I use it on the slides of pistols and the front and rear of the cylinder of revolvers. A tiny bit goes a long way.
FWIW I never lube trigger parts. My experience is that the oil (or even dry lube) eventually wears off and it changes the feeling of the trigger. I just keep them clean and like everything, protected against rust which is an entirely different isue from lubrication
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bigkahunasix
.30 Stingray
Life is too short to use plastic guns.
Posts: 101
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Post by bigkahunasix on Aug 26, 2009 8:11:59 GMT -5
Good old ATF (automatic transmission fluid) for general cleaning and lube, Hoppes or Butches for hard core cleaning, US Gov't. issue high-temp/high pressure grease (got a 5 lb. can while in and still have probably 4.75lb. left after 12 years) for the spots that need grease.
Hammer and trigger go dry for consistency.
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Post by dale53 on Aug 28, 2009 0:46:17 GMT -5
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Shakey
.327 Meteor
Central Arkansas
Posts: 548
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Post by Shakey on Aug 28, 2009 1:51:38 GMT -5
Dale,
Good info there. I don't think I'll be buying 35# of grease for gun lubing no matter how good it is ;D. But, I will try out one of the cartriges if I can find it.
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