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Post by bradshaw on Aug 12, 2015 12:10:20 GMT -5
awp101.... scroll through photos down to 7th from bottom to see hand position for holding frame & grip frame in one hand. The gap between frame & grip frame above trigger allows trigger spring to be tucked behind trigger. A small screw driver or drift works. I find this more convenient for fast teardown/reassembly than pushing out the trigger spring pin and replacing the trigger spring each time. Either method works.
Note on trigger spring pin: common to Rugers, a burr or roughness on a pin hole. If a fine drift is not at hand, clip the straight from a paper clip and drive out the pin. A leg from a trigger spring works as a drift; clip off the angle, square the pin with a file or stone. The trigger spring is hardened and much stronger than the garbage Red Chinese paper clip. Burrs on a pin are removed with a stone.
To index grip frame with frame, ease back on the hammer just a taste. Two lugs on "ears" of illustrated New Model grip frame mate dovetail slots at rear of frame. Make sure loading gate spring mates cam on load gate before fitting grip frame to frame. New Models of recent manufacture lack these grip frame lugs.
David Bradshaw
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awp101
.401 Bobcat
They call me…Andrew
Posts: 2,757
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Post by awp101 on Aug 12, 2015 13:22:50 GMT -5
Mr Bradshaw, many thanks for the excellent pics! I will take a look at this again when I get the .45 in question back in hand.
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Post by bradshaw on Jan 13, 2016 13:51:41 GMT -5
Tek4260.... while this piece is about the trigger, photos also cover the grip frame tabs.
David Bradshaw
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Post by bradshaw on Aug 26, 2018 22:22:45 GMT -5
magumwheelman.... perhaps this will help guide you toward reassemble of your Ruger Bisley. Super Blackhawk (shown), Blackhawk, Single-Six, and Ruger Bisleys all share same strip & reassemble procedure.
Secure frame upside down in a padded vise. If no vise available, place topstrap on edge of wood block (sight boss overhangs block). The trigger pin has a groove which locks the loading gate spring. With lockwork in frame, depress gate spring with screwdriver or similar tool and start shank end of trigger pin[/i] from right side of the frame. From left side of frame, insert guide pin in trigger pin hole; center cylinder latch (aka bolt or stop). push trigger spring into frame until spring snaps into groove.
Ruger New Model hammer and trigger pins should be inserted into frame to check clearance before revolver is reassembled. Blurs are common to these pins and may be dressed with a sharpening stone.
A Tibetan Buddhist or Zen archer might describe assembly of a New Model as a coordination, and be right.
Make sure cylinder latch plunger contacts cylinder latch before you flush grip frame to frame. Start grip frame screws at the front, working front to back. Barely snug all five screws. Lightly snug forward screw. Pinch-align gripframe to frame and slowly snug “topstrap” screws and rear “trigger guard” screws. My technique is rotational, similar to tightening a cylinder head.
David Bradshaw
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Post by squawberryman on Aug 27, 2018 9:57:56 GMT -5
Of all the tips on anything offered up on any of these pages my favorite is "rotate screw backwards until you hear a click".
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Post by Rimfire69 on Aug 28, 2018 7:37:54 GMT -5
That’s good sound advice, I have done that for as long as I can remember. Just makes you feel better when you know your thread engagement is starting correctly.
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Post by bradshaw on Dec 6, 2019 18:15:02 GMT -5
pgohil..... as shown in Vol. 33 (XXXIII), another look at the Ruger New Model trigger-hammer relationship. It is the same for all Ruger New Model singles actions, regardless of individual model. Bill Ruger described ENGAGEMENT ANGLES between hammier and trigger as “REGAIN.” Between trigger pull and hammer fall, sear engagement tends to regain or reset the contact patch.
Note on sensation felt by finger as trigger is squeezed. A heavy pull (letoff weight) masks any roughness on engagement surface of hammer or trigger. For a light pull to be smooth, full cock dog (hammer) and sear tip (trigger) must be smooth.
David Bradshaw
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Post by bradshaw on Jan 17, 2020 16:33:20 GMT -5
For those who may be confused as to why Ruger put the LONG GRIPFRAME SCREW----bottom screw with post on end of threads----on the left side:
Ruger designed the GRIPFRAME with INDEXING LUGS on the “ears,” which plug into notches on the rear face of the FRAME. The left indexing lug was scalloped for the longest of the five gripframe screws to clear. The long screw holds the HAMMER PIN in the frame. Thus, the grooved end of the hammer pin and the long screw should be on the LEFT when the gun is assembled.
The indexing lugs allow the gun to be assembled and dry fired with just the FORWARD GRIP FRAME SCREW holding gripframe to frame. While this saves time in trigger work, my habit is to secure grip frame with two screws during trigger work.
Both left and right side indexing lugs were scalloped on some grip frames. This SBH was made in 1979, with only the left lug scalloped to clear the long screw.
David Bradshaw
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Post by bradshaw on Sept 20, 2022 21:03:47 GMT -5
tj3006.... photo #18 in Vol. 34 shows how I hold New Model in my off hand to install grip frame to frame. I use a flat screwdriver to tuck trigger spring under trigger at last moment before indexing grip frame to frame. Because of subtle interior improvements Ronnie Wells makes on his grip frames, assembly is easier than with factory grip frame. To cock hammer 1/4” facilitates itup of INDEXING LUGS on grip frame to slots finback of frame. (Indexing lugs were omitted perhaps 10 years ago). Loop of trigger spring is tucked above trigger shelf before grip frame flushes up to cylinder frame. An exposed spring----as seen in photo----is out of place. Be sure pawl spring is not pinched by back strap, and cylinder latch spring pushes cylinder latch.  David Bradshaw |
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Post by bradshaw on Nov 23, 2022 8:47:13 GMT -5
ira41magfan and lar4570.... reviving to show New Model trigger spring----bent in a shallow “V” to reduce pull. Also, one leg has been cut. This is a silhouette setup, 1-lb letoff. Main tune was at 1) HAMMER DOG, 2) TRIGGER SEAR, in this case for a clean break without take-up. One pound clean break is too light, with too small a CONTACT PATCH, for hunting. May be used for hunting with a trigger spring set stiffer.
Note: a light spring amplifies any engagement glitches.
David Bradshaw
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Post by bradshaw on Apr 7, 2024 20:56:54 GMT -5
Pete.... lookout photos #14, 15, and a couple others to see the LONG GRIP FRAME SCREW goes in the hole to the left of the trigger guard (opposite loading gate.
David Bradshaw
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Post by wilecoyote on Apr 8, 2024 2:30:14 GMT -5
More on trigger quality... * Keep stones away from drop-forged, case-hardened, S&W hammers and triggers. * Never push a cocked hammer to test engagement. Any baboon can ruin a good. Such a stunt is little more than exercise for a weak mind and heavy thumb. I have see so-called safety inspectors do this at matches. It is arbitrary and devoid of measure, and will shortly turn correct sear engagement into fugitive engagement. The test for correct engagement finds the trigger sweep rearward at hammer fall. * Proper sear engagement on revolver or auto pistol holds up in presence & absence of lubrication. * I have tried to do trigger jobs on revolvers where variation in molecular structure of the sear was evident. Soft metal with hard spots. * If there are better hammers and triggers than original Ruger parts, I have found NO need for them. Same applies to drop-forged, case-hardened S&W parts----just don't stone through the VERY THIN hardness layer. David Bradshaw...learned hard way on Mausers, from the little I've learned_ but my problem arises when in a vintage S&W it's necessary to fit another OEM vintage factory trigger, or hammer_ this is not me playing to be a Gunsmith, but out of functional necessity... |
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