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Post by bigbore5 on Mar 4, 2024 19:01:31 GMT -5
Is the ten degrees before it will be tightened properly or after? That wasn't clear in the original post.
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Post by leadhound on Mar 4, 2024 20:09:05 GMT -5
Is the ten degrees before it will be tightened properly or after? That wasn't clear in the original post. After, says the sight is ten dungarees to the right when viewed from the muzzle.
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Post by rickiesrevenge on Mar 4, 2024 22:45:58 GMT -5
If the barrel is large enough in diameter it could be set back. There would be the old hole from the ejector rod though. Guess it could be timed to be under the housing. How much play is there in the barrel when its about 1/2 a turn from all the way in? I don't like a barrel that is so tight that it needs tools to go the whole way in, which means there is some amount of play. Too much is a bad thing though, as it can vibrate loose. This is with bolt actions though, thats mostly what I build. From the limited testing I've done the threads need to be pretty close, but super tight doesn't make them shoot better, opposite in my experience.
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Post by bigbore5 on Mar 5, 2024 5:48:06 GMT -5
Honestly, I would probably find a good take off longer Ruger barrel and have it refitted for a close barrel gap, proper forcing cone and crown, and if needed a proper lap.
I totally agree with the late Mr. Linebaugh that there's nothing wrong with a good Ruger factory barrel. It will be an additional expense, but satisfactory.
Your only other options are to refit the current barrel at a shorter length (4" is nice), or put a good thread locker on it, properly cure, then hope for the best while watching it closely. You could even consider pinning the barrel like an older Smith.
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Post by marcruger on Mar 5, 2024 6:40:02 GMT -5
I really appreciate the collective wisdom here. In looking further, it appears that the real issue is with whoever originally threaded the barrel. They did a crappy job making the threads, and did not have it turn all the way up to top dead center when tightened. I was thinking setting back the barrel a turn was the answer, but after looking at the barrel threads, I think that will still be an issue due to poor mating of the frame and barrel threads. Shortening the barrel by cutting off the offending threads and creating new threads is not an option as the barrel is 4-5/8". I think this one is in need of a replacement barrel. I will hunt down a 44 Flattop or Super barrel and have it fitted and finished by someone who is skilled. Clearly this is not a short-term repair. Suggestions for a gunsmith who can do this right would be appreciated, and preferably one without a four-year backlog. Many thanks again and best wishes, Marc
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Post by bigbore5 on Mar 5, 2024 9:08:19 GMT -5
Ronny Wells. He'll make one from scratch how you want it or can modify a factory one. He probably already has a barrel.
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Post by Encore64 on Mar 5, 2024 12:57:40 GMT -5
Hopefully that barrel being fit so loosely all these years hasn't put excess wear on the frame threads...
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Post by RDW on Mar 5, 2024 14:29:50 GMT -5
Ronny Wells. He'll make one from scratch how you want it or can modify a factory one. He probably already has a barrel. i have tons of take off barrels cuz i always make my own. But there is always someone who needs one so i keep and save for those in need with situations just like this. Be more than glad to help. First. 11/16 by 24 threads per inch. 1.000 divede by 24 =.0416666666666667 setting a barrel back 1 rotation gains you .0417 of barrel to cylinder gap closure so you can slick that mammy up real tight. Second you do the same to the Ejector rod housing. If a full turn is neccasary, remove .041 from that. Never happens that way. I prefer 12 degrees. why? 76 foot pounds dry or 58 oiled is the ultimate tightening for that thread pitch and that size. The frame fronts are not always perfect 90 degrees from the base pin which is what i realign the gun to every time i pimp one out. I straighten what needs to be straight and then go from there. I evne use the base pin to wire edm the window of the frame when i cut for a larger cylinder. That way the gap is even around the cylinder top to bottom. If the threads are boogered, 90 percent of the time they can be chased and corrected. In actuality you only need 8 threads to accomodate that type of tightening value to hold perfectly. That would be .3336 of an inch and the thickness of a standard blackhawk threaded barrel shroud area is around .600. So you have plenty of room. If they are really Twanked you can step up to 3/4 by 20tpi as well like the hunter. I actually have a couple of Blackhawks that were given to me because the threads were jacked and they both sport a Metric thread to correct them. 18mm by 1.0 tpmm. Comes to .709 instead of .687(11/16) and i was able to salvage it. I hate wasting a good sixgun. R PS: It can be fixed. You just gotta wanna doit man.
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Post by cas on Mar 5, 2024 16:01:53 GMT -5
I had a Ruger Bisley and Freedom Arms 83 both start to unscrew. I dunno, I'm just lucky.
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Post by messybear on Mar 6, 2024 7:44:40 GMT -5
Ronnie gives great advice here! If you like the barrel, let him set it back. If you don’t , let him dig up a replacement. I would say your choice. Front sight original? Or a better one than stock? Think the barrel shoots good? My experience with Shilen replacement barrels is that they are so shallow in land and groove. Don’t grab cast very well. The Ruger always does. Good luck!
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