hunter01
.327 Meteor
Posts: 581
Member is Online
|
Post by hunter01 on Jan 19, 2024 15:27:26 GMT -5
I have never fired any of my double actions as a double action in a charge. Nor have I fired more than 3 shots. I'm fine with a single action plus it's faster in recoil recovery for me. Well, if something has you by the arm shaking your guts out, I’d imagine you might appreciate a DA. Id be willing to bet your “charges” were either instigated for the shot or following a wounded animal knowing full well it was likely coming. BIG difference in that scenario and something you aren’t prepared for getting a hold of you before you know it. I would not fire a double action in double action either under MOST circumstances, but I can envision plenty where it might be the only way you are getting a shot off. If something has a hold of me, I don’t want to lose my opposable thumb GRIP to cock the hammer and chance loosing the weapon, and if something is gnawing on my strong hand, I don’t want to deal with a single action in my weak hand. Much more likely to loose the weapon that way. Im talking about protection here, not hunting.
|
|
|
Post by reflex264 on Jan 19, 2024 17:50:32 GMT -5
I have never fired any of my double actions as a double action in a charge. Nor have I fired more than 3 shots. I'm fine with a single action plus it's faster in recoil recovery for me. I had to shoot a hog or get bit double action. Necessity is the mother of a good trigger. It happened so fast I don't know if I could have thumbed the hammer if I had to.
|
|
|
Post by 45MAN on Jan 19, 2024 18:43:19 GMT -5
I HAVE NEVER FIRED A DA REVOLVER DA AT ANY LIVING THING.
MY MOST CARRIED BACK-UP REVOLVER WHEN HUNTING CATS IN AFRICA AND BEARS IN ALASKA IS MY LINEBAUGH CONVERTED SS REDHAWK IN 45 COLT, FORTUNEATELY I HAVE NEVER HAD TO USE IT.
|
|
|
Post by bigbore5 on Jan 19, 2024 23:28:51 GMT -5
I have never fired any of my double actions as a double action in a charge. Nor have I fired more than 3 shots. I'm fine with a single action plus it's faster in recoil recovery for me. Well, if something has you by the arm shaking your guts out, I’d imagine you might appreciate a DA. Id be willing to bet your “charges” were either instigated for the shot or following a wounded animal knowing full well it was likely coming. BIG difference in that scenario and something you aren’t prepared for getting a hold of you before you know it. I would not fire a double action in double action either under MOST circumstances, but I can envision plenty where it might be the only way you are getting a shot off. If something has a hold of me, I don’t want to lose my opposable thumb GRIP to cock the hammer and chance loosing the weapon, and if something is gnawing on my strong hand, I don’t want to deal with a single action in my weak hand. Much more likely to loose the weapon that way. Im talking about protection here, not hunting. Actually most have been coming up on a bear bayed with the dogs, a few following up wounded bear for a poor shooting client, hippo just being a hippo, follow ups on cape Buffalo, brown bear, and leopard. 80% of the charges I have had to handle over the past 40 years has been with a handgun. Until recently it was first a very heavy loaded Redhawk 44mag. Then that same gun went to Reeder and became a 500L. Others have been leverguns,bolts, doubles, or a pump 12ga. I've never fired a stopping shot double action. Never needed too. I am fast and more accurate cocking with the offhand thumb. How I practice and how I shoot with all revolvers. I'm a firm believer that if you are getting chewed on, you either weren't paying attention to your surroundings or you can't accurately shoot in a bad situation
|
|
|
Post by sixshot on Jan 20, 2024 14:42:15 GMT -5
One year when rjm52 was here visiting we were shooting a lot of varmints, rock chucks & ground squirrels so we weren't using large caliber six guns but some of them were double action. Bob took a liking to my model 16 S&W 32 magnum & also my N frame 38 super & every single round he fired was double action. A big fat ground squirrel, when it's sitting up is usually about 2 1/2" wide & Bob shot a bunch of them from 20 yds out to 75-80 yds with boring precision. He told me, everyone should practice often shooting double action. He's a very practiced hand with a double action six gun....and my 8 shot 38 super. I've probably shot at least 300,000 rounds through various S&W revolvers in competition, just like many other revolver shooters. Not sure if I've taken any big game double action although I had good intentions on my mountain lion.
Dick!
|
|
|
Post by bigbore5 on Jan 20, 2024 15:26:16 GMT -5
I'll add that it is possible when you are getting chewed upon, you didn't bring enough gun or made poor ammunition choices.
Light animals can be stopped by energy transfer. Up to a leopard an hp in a hunting design is a better option. In the US, a nice A-frame in a 44mag works nicely on a black bear. Self defense ammo is great on cougar.
In America, I think it is best to divide the classes of game into three classes: Regular Hazardous Dangerous.
Regular class animals would be the small game, deer, pronghorn, etc. that rarely injure the hunter.
Hazardous game would be the ones that could and often do cause injuries that can be dangerous and have occasionally killed people. This class includes pigs, cougar,bobcat,elk, alligator, and black bear under 350 pounds.
The dangerous class are the big black bear, grizzly,polar bear, brown bear,moose, and bison. These animals due to their size, strength, general disposition, and history of being aggressive require a different attitude when it comes to hunting them. Their strong bones and heavy muscle layers exclude any light hollow points from consideration.
Once a dangerous class animal attacks, forget energy transfer theory. It will get you injured severely or killed. The history speaks for itself. It may kill an organ hit animal faster than a solid in a normal hunting situation. I often use heavy hollow points myself on game, but they weigh 490grs. I will not give up penetration for energy transfer on a dangerous game animal.
To reliably stop any charge, you must crush supporting bones, destroy the supporting muscles or destroy the central nervous system. Anything else will be the animal dying AFTER it's reached you. History proves this to be true.
If you hunt in an area you may encounter some of the dangerous class game but it's not your main quarry, I recommend your first two rounds up to be matched to the game you are seeking. The rest should be a deep penetration design loaded heavy. And practice with it.
A common theme I hear is the theory of a double action being better if an animal is on the person mauling them because then they don't have to worry about cocking it or it jamming. Well I will say definitively a large Bowie knife, which I do carry, is superior to any handgun for that situation. Why you ask? Simple. By that time your gun should be empty and it makes a poor hammer.
|
|
hunter01
.327 Meteor
Posts: 581
Member is Online
|
Post by hunter01 on Jan 20, 2024 16:12:14 GMT -5
I'll add that it is possible when you are getting chewed upon, you didn't bring enough gun or made poor ammunition choices. Light animals can be stopped by energy transfer. Up to a leopard an hp in a hunting design is a better option. In the US, a nice A-frame in a 44mag works nicely on a black bear. Self defense ammo is great on cougar. In America, I think it is best to divide the classes of game into three classes: Regular Hazardous Dangerous. Regular class animals would be the small game, deer, pronghorn, etc. that rarely injure the hunter. Hazardous game would be the ones that could and often do cause injuries that can be dangerous and have occasionally killed people. This class includes pigs, cougar,bobcat,elk, alligator, and black bear under 350 pounds. The dangerous class are the big black bear, grizzly,polar bear, brown bear,moose, and bison. These animals due to their size, strength, general disposition, and history of being aggressive require a different attitude when it comes to hunting them. Their strong bones and heavy muscle layers exclude any light hollow points from consideration. Once a dangerous class animal attacks, forget energy transfer theory. It will get you injured severely or killed. The history speaks for itself. It may kill an organ hit animal faster than a solid in a normal hunting situation. I often use heavy hollow points myself on game, but they weigh 490grs. I will not give up penetration for energy transfer on a dangerous game animal. To reliably stop any charge, you must crush supporting bones, destroy the supporting muscles or destroy the central nervous system. Anything else will be the animal dying AFTER it's reached you. History proves this to be true. If you hunt in an area you may encounter some of the dangerous class game but it's not your main quarry, I recommend your first two rounds up to be matched to the game you are seeking. The rest should be a deep penetration design loaded heavy. And practice with it. A common theme I hear is the theory of a double action being better if an animal is on the person mauling them because then they don't have to worry about cocking it or it jamming. Well I will say definitively a large Bowie knife, which I do carry, is superior to any handgun for that situation. Why you ask? Simple. By that time your gun should be empty and it makes a poor hammer. I’ll say sometimes $hit happens, and I need some taller boots. And as far as your gun being empty by the. time something reaches you, that’s ridiculous. I clearly pointed out I was speaking of situations where you are caught with your panties down. Are you telling me if you are walking an old logging road and a bear busts out of cover at 15yds that your gun will be empty by the time he reaches you? Yeah, whatever, but some of us just aren’t that fast. Is your knife going to crush bones, destroy supporting muscles, or the central nervous system?
|
|
|
Post by bigbore5 on Jan 20, 2024 16:54:16 GMT -5
After this long being raised in the woods, I have never had a bear come bursting out of the woods at 15yds unless I was in a thicket hunting it. That's called situation awareness.
The only big game animals I have had around that close before I knew something was there are some of the cats. They thrive on stealth.
I wouldn't expect most people to be like me. People raised in the country have a different awareness than those from a suburban or city existence. I grew up aware of the animals that are there and will eat you. As a youngster playing in the woods, we were always on the lookout for panther and bear. They were simply part of our daily life. For my background, not being surprised by dangerous animals is not anything special and being able to deal with it is just a part of growing up.
I have been close to some of the most dangerous animals on earth. I've been surprised. Most surprising out of hunting for the specific animal was a leopard just appearing at about 30ft when I was fishing in the Limpopo river before. Even surprised my friend who owned the property and guides hunters professionally there.
I'm not saying that I can't be surprised or I can stop any charge.
Once while hunting leopard, we were stalking one down a trail through some wait-a-minute brush. The trackers had said that it was close. Out of seemingly no where it appears in a full charge, going through the 3 natives like a whirlwind. My friend Richard darts to the side of the trail and hits it with a load of buckshot as it comes through the trackers headed for his brother, who's directly in front of me.
At the hit from about 10ft, it veers off to the side. I hit it a bit back with the 44mag. I think I was still using the Federal cast core ammo back then. Richard gives it a second load of buck. End of a goat killer, but numerous stitches in all three of his trackers.
My closest in the US was a black bear. I was hunting an area of the Pisgah National Forest located near Blowing Rock,NC. I saw a nice bear enter a bushy spot and stalked in after it. Long story but it charges from about 40ft. Stops at about 6.
In all my bad situations, I have been trying to get close. If you have ever spent much time hunting these animals, you know what I am talking about. You would have seen how they reacted to being shot. You may have even seen them stalk and take prey. If you look at the attacks, you will see that normally it wouldn't matter if it was a single or double action. Once a determined animal reaches you, you are screwed.
|
|
hunter01
.327 Meteor
Posts: 581
Member is Online
|
Post by hunter01 on Jan 20, 2024 17:52:22 GMT -5
We are to the point of going in circles. Carry what makes you feel good inside and go forth to slay the dragon.
|
|
|
Post by handgunhuntingafield on Jan 20, 2024 19:08:04 GMT -5
Cute and cuddly black bears🤣
The threat changes a bit when you are working on your downed elk in grizzly country with nice and slick hands….
|
|
|
Post by bigbrowndog on Jan 20, 2024 19:57:56 GMT -5
One time at band camp………..
Trapr
Sorry I couldn’t resist!!! I take it back before I get called argumentative or attacking!!!…it’s not aimed at anyone in particular. It just seemed funny at the time
|
|
|
Post by 45MAN on Jan 20, 2024 22:33:33 GMT -5
IT HAS TAKEN ME A COUPLE OF DAYS TO TRY AND REMEMBER MY DA KILLS. PRETTY DARN SURE I HAVE NEVER USED A SEMI-AUTO ON GAME. WITH A 6" S&W MODEL 53 JET REVOLVER, WITH A CYLINDER IN EITHER 22 HORNET OR K-HORNET, AND USING THE HORNADY 40gr JET BULLET, I TOOK A MEDIUM HOG. WITH AN 8 3/8ths" S&W MODEL 53 JET REVOLVER, IN EITHER 22 JET OR 22 SUPER JET, AND USING THE REMINGTON 40gr JET BULLET, I TOOK A NICE 9 POINT BUCK. WITH MY SS 5.5" REDHAWK (CONVERTED TO 45 COLT FROM 44 MAG BY LINEBAUGH), I HAVE TAKEN: 1) A 5x5 ELK USING EITHER A 300gr OR 325gr GC'ed CAST WFN; 2) AN EXCELLENT SIKA BUCK AT THE YO USING A 300gr XTP BULLET; and 3) A BIG BOAR HOG USING EITHER A 300gr OR 325gr GC'ed CAST WFN. WITH A SCOPED 10.5" S&W PC 460 REVOLVER, USING CORBON 200gr BARNES BULLET AMMO, I HAVE TAKEN: 1) AN AOUDAD RAM; 2) AT LEAST 1 AXIS BUCK; 3) AT LEAST 1 WHITETAIL BUCK; and 4) SEVERAL EXOTICS (DEER, SHEEP). DA REVOLVER HUNTING/KILLING HAS PROBABLY ACCOUNTED FOR LESS THAN 3% OF MY HUNTING/KILLING, THE REST BEING DIVIDED AMONG SA REVOLVERS AND CONTENDERS/ENCORES/XP's. JUST REMEMBERED THAT WITH A S&W 625 POWER PORT 45 COLT I DRILLED AN AOUDAD EWE DEADCENTER THRU THE SHOULDERS USING A 260gr SWC, SHE WENT ABOUT 20-30 YARDS, STOPPED, WOBBLED AND DROPPED DEAD.
|
|
KRal
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,029
|
Post by KRal on Jan 20, 2024 22:47:52 GMT -5
I prefer single actions for hunting, but occasionally use double actions and semi’s… Ruger GP100 .357 S&W M57 no dash Ruger Super Redhawk 480 S&W 686 S&W M57 no dash Springfield TRP Operator 1911 10mm Springfield TRP Operator 1911 10mm S&W 686 S&W 686 Ruger GP100 .357
|
|
|
Post by sixshot on Jan 21, 2024 4:10:11 GMT -5
I'll say this about a well tuned double action revolver. A practiced hand that has done a lot of shooting can do some amazing work with one in a very short amount of time, and that's with iron sights or a red dot, and I'm not very practiced with the red dots although I have a few. The hardest part about becoming fast with a double action gun is staying on the front sight after that "first" shot, most any one can do it for one shot! When you get where you see it for shots two, three, four, five & six, then you've covered a lot of ground! It actually becomes much easier once you clear that hurdle. But you have to practice, practice, practice. I've always said, you never really master a six gun.
Dick
|
|
|
Post by 45MAN on Jan 21, 2024 10:46:05 GMT -5
DICK: I LIKE WHAT YOU SAID, AND AGREE: "you have to practice, practice, practice {but} you never really master a six gun"
|
|