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Post by mobjack on Jun 16, 2019 18:20:02 GMT -5
It appears that my new five shooter has a "catch" in cocking. It is not on every chamber, but if I draw the hammer back normally, it will hit a spot where the hammer binds. If I nudge the cylinder to help it rotate, it will go into battery. The binding is so bad, I have had my thumb slip off. Now if I "snatch" the hammer back it doesn't have as much of a "catch". I don't think I should have to abuse the lock-work to get the cylinder to rotate. None of my other single actions require me to do anything but a slow smooth cocking of the hammer.
I am wondering if the second "tooth" on the hand or pawl could be grabbing on the ratchet? or?
Mobjack With .480 Bisley questions.
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nicholst55
.375 Atomic
Retired, twice.
Posts: 1,041
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Post by nicholst55 on Jun 16, 2019 19:28:15 GMT -5
Send it back to Ruger and make them fix it. Call them and ask politely for a return shipping label.
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Post by foxtrapper on Jun 16, 2019 19:54:12 GMT -5
Throwing out the idea of transfer bar pinch. Spitballing here.
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Post by coldtriggerfinger on Jun 16, 2019 20:13:22 GMT -5
I had a bit of a hitch in the gitalong cocking my current SRH. It was a lack of lube with a new gun. I oiled it well and it's been 100% ever since.
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Post by contender on Jun 16, 2019 21:26:38 GMT -5
Stainless guns & parts often have small "galling" spots that create minor issues. If it were MINE,,, I'd disassemble it & clean up any rough spots inside it anyway,, hoping to find the issue & cure it. But,, I'm comfortable tinkering on the guts of my guns. If you are not,, then a polite call to Ruger will get it looked at by the folks who make them & know them quite well!
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Post by bigbrowndog on Jun 16, 2019 21:35:09 GMT -5
I’ve had a similar issue, both were easily remedied. One was base pin drift and thus not pushing on transfer bar enough to clear the firing pin.
The other was loose screws attaching the grip frame to the frame, snug them up and all was ok.
Trapr
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KRal
.375 Atomic
Posts: 1,029
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Post by KRal on Jun 17, 2019 11:43:36 GMT -5
High primers rubbing on the recoil shield will cause this problem as well, if the headspace is tight.
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Post by mobjack on Jun 17, 2019 18:12:19 GMT -5
Here are a few answers: 1) "transfer bar pinch" - I am not familiar with that term.2) "It was a lack of lube with a new gun." - One of the first things I did was to disassemble, and lube it real good. 3) "Stainless guns often have small galling" spots that create minor issues" - When I took it apart I noticed some, and tried to clean it up. This is on the "ratchet teeth" (if that is the correct term).4) "One was base pin drift and thus not pushing on transfer bar enough to clear the firing pin." - I checked that & had tightened the locking screw. That was the first thing I was looking for.5) "loose screws attaching the grip frame to the frame" - I checked & they are tight.6) "High primers rubbing on the recoil shield will cause this problem" - This is with the cylinder empty, no cartridges.
If there is something that I overlooked, please let me know. I am almost to the point of sending it back to Ruger.
Mobjack With a less than perfect revolver.
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nicholst55
.375 Atomic
Retired, twice.
Posts: 1,041
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Post by nicholst55 on Jun 17, 2019 21:18:47 GMT -5
Here are a few answers: 1) "transfer bar pinch" - I am not familiar with that term.If there is something that I overlooked, please let me know. I am almost to the point of sending it back to Ruger.
Mobjack With a less than perfect revolver.
Kuhnhausen addresses this on page 154, para 1, if you happen to have his Shop Manual. What we call 'Transfer Bar Pinch' is caused when the thickness of the transfer bar is greater than the depth of the hammer transfer bar recess. This can slow, or even prevent, transfer bar return. A common method of testing for this is to fire the gun and hold the trigger back. As you release the trigger, observe if the hammer moves as the transfer bar repositions itself. In a perfect world, the hammer will not move.
If you are experiencing this issue, be careful how you remedy it. The transfer bar recess in the hammer should be kept flat, and it should the same depth (within reason) as the top part of the transfer bar. Too deep, and you will experience light firing pin strikes or inconsistent ignition. If you go totally crazy and cut it WAY too deep, the gun may fail to fire and require a hammer replacement.
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Post by mobjack on Jun 18, 2019 11:15:43 GMT -5
I was having the hammer lock up even with the cylinder removed, till I had a "DUH" moment and reinstalled the base pin. 
Without the cylinder in place, the action works smoothly, no "hang-up". With the cylinder in place, I either have to jerk the hammer, or ease the cylinder over, to get it into battery. I am a little reticent to send it back to Ruger, because every chamber doesn't have the same problem, to the same degree. Plus, it is easy to show someone, but you never get to talk to the Ruger technician, and if it was "good enough" to go out the first time, it probably is still "good enough".
Mobjack Maybe sending it to a custom smith is the solution.
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Post by bula on Jun 18, 2019 11:24:56 GMT -5
Am following this thread. My 4 5/8" 480 BSBH has a "hitch in the giddy-up" too. Same/same. I've not sent it back either. I had a thread, and opinions too. One not heard this time, a 6 shot part installed and not throwing the cylinder into motion well or far enough..? A friend and me went over it for rough spots, galling, de-gunked and relubed, etc.. Am suspicious of the transfer bar yet here.. Luck.
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