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Post by wheelguns on Jun 10, 2019 4:45:13 GMT -5
Bullets, primers, and powder.
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Post by contender on Jun 10, 2019 10:04:30 GMT -5
Matching the bullet, primer & powder are the things most recommend,, especially for new reloaders. Once you gain knowledge,, you can understand how to switch some stuff & still be safe. But as always,, when loading start low & work up to accurate loads. Max or power does NOT equate to accurate most often. And one thing you will notice in the different manuals. You can pick the same caliber, and study it,, only to find different powder charges etc listed as "max." Confusion abounds. Which one is "right" or "safe" is the question. Well, first,, you have to STUDY all that is written in each manual to see what gun they used, what primer, what bullet, etc. When encountering differences,, the tiny details of the variables appear. A "Universal Receiver" is a different test action vs a specific firearm. Different results can happen. This is part of why I stress different manuals,, and studying a lot. It MAY seem a daunting task,,, but I can promise you,, it's not. Not only will you gain a lot of knowledge,, you will get a lot of pleasure out of making your own ammo. And if you hunt,, if you use your ammo to bag any game,, it's even sweeter! Anybody with a willingness to learn & follow the safe practices can easily learn reloading. I started long ago on a budget,, buying individual pieces as needed. (No kits were available back then.) I bought a Lyman Spartan press,,, some Lyman dies, a powder measure, a scale, and a loading block. I used the press mounted priming assy, and was easily able to assemble my first reloads in 38 Spl & 357 mag. Mistakes? Sure,, I made some. But I learned,, and my mistakes were not dangerous. (Swaged lead bullets are not as hard as many cast ones for example. Horrible leading early on.) Swaged were cheaper,, and I was on a budget.
Again,, if you are anywhere near WNC,, I'll offer any help I can!
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Post by azshaun on Jun 10, 2019 17:57:25 GMT -5
I am self taught as well. I started with the Lee Hand Press kit from Fsreloading.com it is the cheapest I have found for Lee products. Anyway, I really like the kit, I added a hand primer from Lee as well. If I were to start fresh and I have thought about this for my boys, I would get them a Lee Loader (the hammer model). It is inexpensive to get into it. Walks right through each step and is surprisingly fast. I picked up my first kit in 41 Magnum cheap on eBay, and I really like the kit. I would definitely get a couple in 357 to hand to my boys as they get their first handgun.
I guess it isn’t for everyone, and can’t turn out the volumes of the bigger presses, but I love the hand press and the LEE Loader.
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Post by deaconkc on Jun 10, 2019 19:51:59 GMT -5
1. your brass needs to be clean and un-damaged. Unless you have Berdan primed or the old, old balloon head brass. this will be the component that least affects your reloading. 2. The bullet you use will have slightly different profiles and crimping grooves which can affect your loads, so use the manufacturers specs for length and type of crimp. 3. The powder and primer choice will be your greatest variable. Always use starting loads and work up carefully. 4. Remember that every manufacturer is going to give the best loads for their components. This is not being selfish, just a company promoting the products they make and know the best.
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JM
.375 Atomic
Posts: 2,423
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Post by JM on Jun 10, 2019 23:46:09 GMT -5
Take a look at Starline brass. Consider buying a bag of 500 or more. Having uniform brass simplifies case prep. Eventually you will need to develop a system to clean your fired brass. If you intend to carry your rounds in leather cartridge loops, you might consider nickel plated brass to help prevent verdigris. Same with belt buckles, but that is another topic.
I used to buy Oregon Trail bullets. They were a good value several years ago. The cost of lead & shipping has risen dramatically over the last few years so keep that in mind.
Winchester or Federal primers. CCI is also a good.
Winchester also has a few powder choices.
You will also need one or more Loading Blocks & cartridge storage boxes. Loading Blocks keep your cases upright & in order. This allows you to easily verify that each case is charged with an equal amount of powder by performing a one by one visual inspection with a flashlight. Always perform that step prior to setting your projectile on top of the case.
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JM
.375 Atomic
Posts: 2,423
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Post by JM on Jun 10, 2019 23:48:33 GMT -5
Masking tape & a magic marker to make labels to identify your cartridge boxes, etc.
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Post by oddshooter on Jun 11, 2019 9:46:46 GMT -5
I can't tell you how much a mentor helps, but I think you already knew this. You can absolutely do it alone. You wrote, "3. I have a very nervous personality (lol)." Perfect ! A little paranoia is not bad in this hobby.
Even an hour or two from a mentor can save you days of fiddling. and there can be a lot of fiddling. I have found handloaders are quick to share and enjoy giving support to new folks. If you look around, you will find someone.
I got really lucky and selected the Dillon 550b to start with. I used it as a single stage for several months. It works perfectly for that. Redding and RCBS, but I have Lyman M's and Lee FCD's, ... But the greatest aspect of all, I had the best progressive around when I was ready. and I believe most handloaders find themselves there eventually.
My son had a 550 and he gave me an hour's education on setup and the basics of measurements. I started because I had just got hooked on the 357 Maximum and rounds were over $2 each. Now I handload for a dozen calibers and enjoy it as much as shooting; I can handload every day. Shooting is tough to get to.
This site is phenomenal for getting reloading assistance. It's near impossible to stump this bunch of folks. But nothing compares to having someone in the same room you can watch and they can watch you.
Once again, where do you live? Somebody knows somebody around there.
Prescut My one handloader truism: Organize, Organize, Organize
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