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Post by doninnh on Feb 9, 2019 0:06:52 GMT -5
Had 112 rem peters 25/20 cases unfired necked down to 224 for 218 mashburn bee fired 14 rounds had 7 case failures at the shoulder 1 primer did not fire powder two other rounds required second strike. Primers may be it, but the shoulder fail make using these mostly a waste of time and also the safety thing. The brass was about ten years old to me. I did not do any annealing with this stuff and right now I think I'll just break these rounds down and put them and about 50 more 25/20 into a baggy and use the hornady brass only. Have a nice day DON K
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Post by bradshaw on Feb 9, 2019 9:07:37 GMT -5
Had 112 rem peters 25/20 cases unfired necked down to 224 for 218 mashburn bee fired 14 rounds had 7 case failures at the shoulder 1 primer did not fire powder two other rounds required second strike. Primers may be it, but the shoulder fail make using these mostly a waste of time and also the safety thing. The brass was about ten years old to me. I did not do any annealing with this stuff and right now I think I'll just break these rounds down and put them and about 50 more 25/20 into a baggy and use the hornady brass only. Have a nice day DON K
***** To assess a fire forming problem it is important to know exactly the gun, chamber, cartridge case, history of brass in question, POWDER & CHARGE. Some brass is not amenable to fireformin----just wants to split longitudinally at the shoulder, for instance. While other seemingly crystalized brass stretches above the web. Brass may not be at fault when the neck of the recipient chamber is greater in diameter than parent brass. Powder and charge may be incorrect or require adjustment. Bullet and/or seating depth may require adjustment. If you are a veteran of case forming, with chamber, powder & charge in order, you may quickly suspect the brass. Not all brass is equal. David Bradshaw
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Post by doninnh on Feb 9, 2019 14:20:32 GMT -5
I do not think there is anything wrong with the brass in this case except what I did with it first the brass is older than I had remembered. It was for a Remington 26C in 25/20 found in the1970s in an attic contained in doeskin saddle scabbard for a longer rifle growing really bad green fur. it was probably worth more than the gun too bad it disappeared on me. The brass was bought in the early 1980s (Where does the time go) so it should have been annealed. I had bad thoughts over the shape of these rounds after neck sizing in a full length die. It in effect made two shoulders on the rounds delaying the seal of the chamber or blocking it completely. Powder burn was poor, 10 grains of lil gun works very well in Hornady brass but not here. the gun is a Ruger #1 in 218 mashburn bee. There is a sbh to go with it underway. Load data is not easy to come ,One member sent a lot of data from the late 1980s Have a nice day DON K
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Post by bradshaw on Feb 9, 2019 22:26:47 GMT -5
I do not think there is anything wrong with the brass in this case except what I did with it first the brass is older than I had remembered. It was for a Remington 26C in 25/20 found in the1970s in an attic contained in doeskin saddle scabbard for a longer rifle growing really bad green fur. it was probably worth more than the gun too bad it disappeared on me. The brass was bought in the early 1980s (Where does the time go) so it should have been annealed. I had bad thoughts over the shape of these rounds after neck sizing in a full length die. It in effect made two shoulders on the rounds delaying the seal of the chamber or blocking it completely. Powder burn was poor, 10 grains of lil gun works very well in Hornady brass but not here. the gun is a Ruger #1 in 218 mashburn bee. There is a sbh to go with it underway. Load data is not easy to come ,One member sent a lot of data from the late 1980s Have a nice day DON K ***** I would not firearm corroded brass. Embrittlement is a certainty. I have not worked with .25-20 but on the face of it, I would use a medium powder of stick or flake persuasion. I would not use a double base ball powder to firearm 19th century brass. I would want relatively fast burn with relatively low expansion. A call to tech at Hodgdon, Hornady, Sierra, or Speer should help. Others right here, also. What is Remington 26C? I don’t get along with acronyms, initials, and abbreviations. I understand .45C and .22LR, but 26C is a mystery. David Bradshaw
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Post by doninnh on Feb 10, 2019 3:25:31 GMT -5
It was a Remington model 25r slide / pump action in 25/20 made in 1931. Have a nice day DON K
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Post by doninnh on Feb 10, 2019 9:55:53 GMT -5
Was talking to Hornady Friday about data on 218 Mahburn bee ,there is none there ,On previous conversations with them I was told they did dropped data (such as 30-338) when they computerazed which lost data on some of the oldtimers. I have to wait till I get back north and see it some of the old book have any data. Have a nice day DON K
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