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Post by Alaskan454 on Jan 14, 2019 11:43:26 GMT -5
I was swapping grip frames recently and I have one Vaquero that would require the cylinder frame to be filed a bit on one side. The "ears" would also need lowered in order to mate up properly with the grip frame. For those of you with some experience on fitting these, how much can or should you remove from these areas? Other swaps I've done before were closer from the start.
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Post by 2 Dogs on Jan 14, 2019 12:16:33 GMT -5
Aluminum will certainly cut more easily than steel however it will also “load” your file faster as well. So just go carefully and “card”’your file frequently to prevent gouging your work.
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Post by leftysixgun on Jan 14, 2019 13:24:13 GMT -5
“Card” meaning clean your file.
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Post by lazytcross on Jan 14, 2019 13:34:32 GMT -5
Would chalk be a good idea on the file?
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Post by leftysixgun on Jan 14, 2019 13:44:01 GMT -5
Not sure, never tried. A little dab of Tap majic works well and I imagine WD-40 too
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lws
.30 Stingray
Spokane Valley, Washington
Posts: 229 
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Post by lws on Jan 14, 2019 18:53:54 GMT -5
Chalk was uses lots when the old time gun smiths and machinists were using hand mills.( Files) Helps from keeping them from plugging up. |
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Post by Alaskan454 on Jan 14, 2019 19:13:20 GMT -5
Does this amount of fitment seem reasonable? I've taken metal off the back of the cylinder frame before, but not the sides. Just wanted to confirm before I remove material.   |
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Post by 2 Dogs on Jan 14, 2019 19:25:46 GMT -5
Would chalk be a good idea on the file? IMO, chalk and any other substance “masks” the problem and prevents me from seeing what I need to see and feel. Sure, carding a file every other stroke is a bit of a pain but only you are setting the standard for your work. A lot depends on the job. Sometimes I will start with a double bit file then move to a single then to a fine single and on to a coarse stone. But that’s just me. |
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Post by 2 Dogs on Jan 14, 2019 19:27:57 GMT -5
Does this amount of fitment seem reasonable? I've taken metal off the back of the cylinder frame before, but not the sides. Just wanted to confirm before I remove material. Not anywhere reasonable to me. That grip frame is very undersized. Is it a XR3-RED? |
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Post by Alaskan454 on Jan 14, 2019 19:52:45 GMT -5
It's stamped NXR3-Red. Do I need to find another grip frame? There are quite a few waves in the finish of the cylinder frame, so just flattening that out might get it closer. Likely about half way to matching the grip.
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Post by contender on Jan 14, 2019 22:40:16 GMT -5
I'd not file the main frame,, I'd look for a different g/f.
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Post by singleaction on Jan 15, 2019 6:13:35 GMT -5
Some time after Ruger began making Bisley revolvers, they changed the height of the rear of the grip frame on all their SA’s. It looks like your grip frame is a pre-bisley era part. You should definitely get a newer part that will better fit your gun. Unfortunately, finding an aluminum grip frame that fits really well can be difficult. The alloy used in the last several years is crap, and getting a nice result on the finish can be difficult. I would definitely not use a grip frame that will require you to thin the side of the cylinder frame to get a good fit.
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Post by Rimfire69 on Jan 15, 2019 8:58:37 GMT -5
There is lots of parts out there, I would for sure keep looking till you find a better fit. As for files, you can’t beat clean, it’s easier to see what your doing.
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Post by Alaskan454 on Jan 15, 2019 9:02:51 GMT -5
Thanks for the input guys. I figured the alloy part was likely pre bisley since the ears were so low. I'll shop around and maybe see if I can find a good one. I've heard the newer aluminum frames were not ideal to refinish, so hopefully I can get lucky.
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Post by Alaskan454 on Jan 15, 2019 20:14:30 GMT -5
After comparing this frame to my single six it is very undersized. I found two promising parts online so hopefully they work out! Was planning to install one on another Vaquero as well.
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