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Post by uncletom on Nov 16, 2018 23:38:26 GMT -5
I picked up this Stevens 45 Range model in 32 long rimfire the other day. Bore is pretty rough, but went ahead and converted it to centerfire and reamed it to 32-20. I shot it and it seems to have some potential. I was kinda hoping that it would shoot worse than it did so I would have a good reason to have the barrel rebored to something else, being that it's a good bit heavier than my 32-20 low wall, not to mention chambered in the same cartridge. So looking for opinions, bore it, leave it, fit a second barrel? It's a takedown and on the 44 1/2 receiver, so a second barrel in say 38-55 should be easy enough.
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Post by leftysixgun on Nov 17, 2018 4:51:03 GMT -5
Bore it or rebarrel it, you said you were kinda hoping it would shoot worse, you were looking for a reason to rebore/rebarrel. What would you chamber next?
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Post by uncletom on Nov 17, 2018 13:01:45 GMT -5
If I were to have it bored, leaning towards 38-55, but open to other suggestions. If I were to fit it with an auxiliary barrel, maybe 25-35, but I would do a lighter barrel profile.
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cmillard
.375 Atomic
MOLON LABE
Posts: 1,936
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Post by cmillard on Nov 17, 2018 15:32:28 GMT -5
Try fire lapping before anything serious
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nicholst55
.375 Atomic
Retired, twice.
Posts: 1,029
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Post by nicholst55 on Nov 17, 2018 21:52:35 GMT -5
Paper patched cast bullets will often shoot acceptably in a rough bore. Probably not an issue if you're looking for a reason to rebarrel.
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Post by magnumwheelman on Nov 17, 2018 21:59:11 GMT -5
Maybe reline the barrel with a TJ's hammer forged barrel liner
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Post by Aeroscout on Nov 25, 2018 15:10:19 GMT -5
Nice rifle! Do you mind sharing details about moving the firing pin for CF (if you did anything at all)?
Joe
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Post by uncletom on Nov 27, 2018 21:56:43 GMT -5
Nice rifle! Do you mind sharing details about moving the firing pin for CF (if you did anything at all)? Joe I don't mind at all sir. Unfortunately I get way too focused on what I am doing and am horrible at remembering to take pictures of the process. Basically, I drilled and tapped the existing firing pin hole for a 8-40 screw, soldered the screw in the hole and then cut and filed the screw flush. I then installed the block back in the action and dropped an appropriate size transfer punch down the bore to mark the center. I then set the block up in the mill using a piece of rod in the hammer side of the firing pin hole to ensure the new hole would remain parallel with the firing pin body. I then drilled the hole through the block and 1/8" or so into the rod after locating off of the transfer punch mark. I then changed to a .003 or so larger bit and enlarged the hole slightly in the block only. The locating rod was then cut to proper length and notched for the retaining screw and became the new firing pin body. A piece of appropriate size drill rod was pressed into the hole to become the firing pin tip. This was trimmed for a .055 protrusion and the tip was shaped. One could also reuse the existing firing pin body as I did on my low wall, just file the tip flush with the body and drill and press in a new tip. I elected to make up a new body on this one as it was peened pretty bad by the hammer. Works great and between this gun and my similarly converted low wall, I've ran several hundred trouble free rounds.
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Post by uncletom on Dec 1, 2018 22:41:19 GMT -5
Here you can see the plugged rimfire firing pin hole And the new firing pin Side by side with a similarly converted low wall block and pin And both rifles. The low wall was in pretty bad shape, loose breech block, bore badly pitted, and rust pits all over. I picked up a Green mountain barrel blank on sale, some blemished furniture and did a lot of filing. It isn't perfect, but it carries like a dream and and shoots as good as I can see. I kept the original barrel and plan on relining it in the future. Also have a 1873 and a 1892, both in 32-20 to reline, plan on doing them all at the same time.
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Post by uncletom on Dec 2, 2018 19:22:50 GMT -5
I guess I'm leaving this barrel alone. This is 5 shots at 100 yards under 3". The load is a 120 gr flat point over 3.4gr of Unique in Starline brass. Runs 1040fps and is about as loud as a 22lr. A second barrel remains a possibility.
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Post by wickerbill on Dec 8, 2018 12:30:30 GMT -5
I had a 32 long RF in a 44 frame that I relined and changed over to CF and rechambered to 32-20. It shot great after the work was done. Topped it off with an old Unertal 12X scope and it was a tack driver. Won a couple of matches with it and sold it to a competitor for way more than I had in it. Bill
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Post by uncletom on Feb 10, 2019 21:18:04 GMT -5
Trigger pull was way too heavy for my taste on this. Tried cleaning and polishing everything as well as reducing preload on the hammer spring to no great success. Found CPA double set trigger complete lower tang and placed my order. Also required was a longer lever. Took some minor fitting on both as well as a second order to procure missing hammer fly. 50 rounds trouble free down range, next need to put some rust on the lever.
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Post by Aeroscout on Feb 16, 2019 16:51:18 GMT -5
I guess I'm leaving this barrel alone. This is 5 shots at 100 yards under 3". The load is a 120 gr flat point over 3.4gr of Unique in Starline brass. Runs 1040fps and is about as loud as a 22lr. A second barrel remains a possibility. Wow great project and great shooting!
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Post by uncletom on Feb 17, 2019 0:18:58 GMT -5
I guess I'm leaving this barrel alone. This is 5 shots at 100 yards under 3". The load is a 120 gr flat point over 3.4gr of Unique in Starline brass. Runs 1040fps and is about as loud as a 22lr. A second barrel remains a possibility. Wow great project and great shooting! Thanks Joe. I need to see what it will do with the good trigger. The pull on the original was around 8 pounds. I passed up a .30 cal and a .35 cal barrel last week, both Douglas half octagons, holding out for a quarter bore or a .38. This old rifle is fun to shoot, just way heavy for a 32 wcf. Similar to my Winder musket in 22 short.
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