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Post by Quick Draw McGraw on Oct 19, 2018 22:35:18 GMT -5
My .475 Linebaugh BFR's base pin gets pretty funked up when shooting hard case bullets. Requires me to stop, we down the base pin, and add a drop it two of oil. What do you guys use?
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Post by mike454 on Oct 19, 2018 23:41:08 GMT -5
Same as on the rest of the gun, CLP.
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Post by coldtriggerfinger on Oct 20, 2018 0:34:36 GMT -5
A guy told me STP was the best thing to use.
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Post by wheelguns on Oct 20, 2018 6:45:15 GMT -5
I just put a drop of Hoppes oil on each end of my cylinders. The base pin on my S7 does get a little funky, but I think that is mostly due to the tiny gas ring on the cylinder.
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nicholst55
.375 Atomic
Retired, twice.
Posts: 1,039
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Post by nicholst55 on Oct 20, 2018 6:50:25 GMT -5
I use either LSA-T (if I have any) or TW-25B. Since I won't be able to get LSA-T any more once I retire, I'll probably just stick with TW-25B. LSA-T is the preferred lube for the Mk19 Mod 3 40mm Grenade Machine Gun, and TW-25B is used on the M134 Mini-gun, among other things. Both are suited for (relatively) high pressure, load bearing applications and high cyclic rates of fire. I also use them to lube the front and rear of the cylinder.
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Post by bula on Oct 20, 2018 7:40:39 GMT -5
I put a dab of teflon grease into the front end of the cylinder and rotate it as seating the base pin to work it around. I like synthetic 80W gear oil too. Been wondering about chain saw bar oil but haven't tried. Meant to stay put and not attract gunk.. hmmnnn..
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Post by Rimfire69 on Oct 20, 2018 8:46:55 GMT -5
I’ve found all the different oils eventually blow off with the high pressure, I’ve gone exclusively to never seize after seeing it here on the forum a few years back. It’s heavier and may even have a little drag to it, but it stays put period. If you shoot long and hard enough to dry it slightly, put a tiny drop of oil on the existing never seize and it will rejuvenate to new condition. Could be in my head, but it just makes my whole gun feel smoother and tighter. I went through the my syn 75/90 stag a bunch of years back, and it worked good enough. My Kimber would run a 2 day IPSC match clean as a whistle, but smelled like an over heated rear end out a Kenworth by Sunday afternoon.
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Post by bradshaw on Oct 20, 2018 9:21:38 GMT -5
My .475 Linebaugh BFR's base pin gets pretty funked up when shooting hard case bullets. Requires me to stop, we down the base pin, and add a drop it two of oil. What do you guys use? ***** Single action base pin: Anti-Seize Compound. In lieu of Anti-Seize, molydisulfide or other chassis grease. For hard freezing weather, ATF (auto trans fluid) or synthetic motor oil. The generous hub on Ruger single action cylinders deflects fouling better than a shallow hub, or no hub at all. Ratchets run on Anti-Seize. David Bradshaw
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rug480
.30 Stingray
Posts: 139
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Post by rug480 on Oct 20, 2018 9:34:13 GMT -5
Is there any adversity to using white lithium? Just happen to have some on hand
I’ve stuck with clp myself, but now that I think about it I might have some STP moly-ep around here
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Post by taffin on Oct 20, 2018 10:23:24 GMT -5
My .475 Linebaugh BFR's base pin gets pretty funked up when shooting hard case bullets. Requires me to stop, we down the base pin, and add a drop it two of oil. What do you guys use? SWITCH TO A GOOD QUALITY GREASE NOT OIL
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Post by ncrobb on Oct 20, 2018 12:22:57 GMT -5
Tetra grease. I’ve had good results with it in a number of applications where oil just wasn’t working or there was a lot of sliding friction like M1 Garand receivers. A little dab on the base pin rubbed around and I’m good to go. Just bought a new tube this morning.
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dhd
.327 Meteor
Posts: 941
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Post by dhd on Oct 20, 2018 14:49:35 GMT -5
I remember Mr Bradshaw suggesting anti seize sometime ago, and since I have quite a bit of it, it's what I use. It stays put. I also use it on the front and back of the cylinders.
I use the containers of it that look like tubes of Chapstick. A little oil mixed in with it probably can't hurt either.
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Post by bobwright on Oct 20, 2018 20:20:22 GMT -5
I've never had any problems with fouling of the base pin. I do wipe it down with Hoppe's No. 9 when cleaning after a range session, then oil with my 50/50 mix of motor oil and Three-In-One oil.
Bob Wright
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Post by bradshaw on Oct 21, 2018 7:17:42 GMT -5
"Is there any adversity to using white lithium? Just happen to have some on hand...” ----rug480
*****
I would use the white lithium over no grease. One of my coaches with the M1, Sam Burkehalter, watches me apply Lubriplate to my National Match Garand. “David, that stuff will gum in the rain.” Burkehalter fetches me a jar of synthetic grease. I think the year is 1960.
While galling is an especial threat to stainless steel, with some junk stainless guns behaving more like clay, fine appropriate stainless as used by----to name two----Ruger and S&W----seems very resistant to galling. Nevertheless, I profoundly prefer my stainless firearms to know they are respected, which good lube insures. To illustrate the point with a slight digression, the locking lugs of stainless steel bolt actions DEMAND lubrication, again with ANTI-SEIZE my preference. Handloaders in particular should be aware that to chamber an insufficiently sized bottleneck case may instantly gall stainless locking lugs, most certainly dry lugs. David Bradshaw
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Post by contender on Oct 21, 2018 9:37:14 GMT -5
I've got some anti-seize I use,, but I wonder,, is one brand better than another??? Just curious.
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