I have two questions regarding the "old Model"single six.
1. Is the conversion by Ruger to the single six recomended. I do not carry it in the field . For my use it is a paper puncher only.
2. I picked up an unfired 22 mag cylinder at the gun show. Ruger said they would not fit it to my gun. Does anyone here know who would? Thank you
1: The Ruger transfer bar conversion is NOT recommended by me. And I do carry my Old Models in the field. I recommend using the old system of carrying them with 5 rounds and with the hammer over an empty chamber just like people have been doing with single actions for well over a hundred years with perfect safety. Load one chamber, skip one chamber, load four chambers then pull the hammer all the way back and lower it. The hammer will be over the empty chamber.
2: Do you have a good dial or digital caliper? >If so take the LR cylinder out of the frame, and measure it from the ratchet to the end of the gas ring at the front and write it down. >Put the cylinder back in the frame and using a feeler gauge measure the space between the front of the cylinder and the frame with the cylinder held firmly to the rear. Write it down. This is your end shake amount. >Now measure the Mag cylinder like you did the LR cylinder. If it's as long as the LR cylinder, but not longer than the LR cyl and end shake amount the cylinder will fit the frame. If it is too long you'll need to shorten the gas ring at the front till the cylinder just fits into the frame, then remove no more than .002" for clearance. If it is too short, it's best to sell that cylinder and keep looking. The gas ring can be lengthened, but it's a PITA. > If the cylinder length is OK then put it in the gun. > Cock the gun slowly watching the latch and trigger. If the cylinder times up so that the latch locks in when the trigger snaps into the full cock notch you are almost there. If the cylinder locks up a wee bit later than the trigger it's no big deal. > Put the LR cylinder back in and check it just like you did above and see just how close they are. A little bit of variance is OK > One last thing to check. Chamber to bore alignment. You'll need either a range rod ( preferable ) or a strong light coming into the breach area from the sides. With a range rod, slip the rod down the barrel with the cylinder in place. You do not need the gun cocked. The range rod should slip into the cylinder without catching on the edge of the chambers. Without a range rod, hold the pistol so you can look down the barrel from the muzzle end and see all the way back to the firing pin. Now look close at the joint where the chamber and barrel meet. Can you see the edges of the chamber? All you should see is a straight tunnel. If you move the cylinder back and forth by hand you'll see the edge of the chamber, but with the hammer down and your hands off the cylinder you shouldn't see it. > If the cylinder fit passes all these tests you are home free.
Hope this helps a bit.
Last Edit: Nov 2, 2009 10:49:42 GMT -5 by J Miller
***Be sneaky, get closer, bust the cap on him when you can put the ball where it counts .***