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Post by seak89 on Jan 21, 2018 3:24:47 GMT -5
Good questions with good answers plus a screw coming.Just getting a good crimp in the right place is all you need with the old flat top,you don't want the big hot rod loads.
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Post by zeus on Jan 21, 2018 9:17:52 GMT -5
Seat/crimp two steps. Seat all then readjust for needed crimp as mentioned already. You will not have that happen again.
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Post by Alaskan454 on Jan 21, 2018 10:52:52 GMT -5
I use TiteGroup in my competition revolvers because of how clean it burns. Like others mentioned, it may be crimp related. Possibly the bullet selection too. I've gone 2k or more rounds without cleaning in my revolvers with the same powder.
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Post by oddshooter on Jan 21, 2018 11:06:10 GMT -5
Thanks Alaskan for that second report on Titegroup. I use it and like it. I was about to go look at my range logs and the dirty column. I've not noticed any dirty myself on the titegroup. But I do like a tight crimp and I keep closer to max load than starting load. Both those help on keeping dirty to a minimum.
Prescut
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Post by Alaskan454 on Jan 21, 2018 11:20:01 GMT -5
Thanks Alaskan for that second report on Titegroup. I use it and like it. I was about to go look at my range logs and the dirty column. I've not noticed any dirty myself on the titegroup. But I do like a tight crimp and I keep closer to max load than starting load. Both those help on keeping dirty to a minimum. Prescut I use almost exclusively coated lead with TiteGroup and set the crimp as tight as possible without removing the coating in a bullet puller. Seems to work well. I did some testing and those loads take about 30 trips on the recoil ride for a measurable bullet jump with my calipers.
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Post by Burnston on Jan 21, 2018 18:26:47 GMT -5
Thanks Alaskan for that second report on Titegroup. I use it and like it. I was about to go look at my range logs and the dirty column. I've not noticed any dirty myself on the titegroup. But I do like a tight crimp and I keep closer to max load than starting load. Both those help on keeping dirty to a minimum. Prescut I use almost exclusively coated lead with TiteGroup and set the crimp as tight as possible without removing the coating in a bullet puller. Seems to work well. I did some testing and those loads take about 30 trips on the recoil ride for a measurable bullet jump with my calipers. Perhaps I purchased an unusual batch; I've not even worked through one canister. My pistol does not cease functioning, but does show far more filth and grime than Unique or 2400, which are the only other two I have any experience with. Light loads are all that I've attempted using TiteGroup, so I'll try some heavier loads and see what difference that makes.
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Post by Alaskan454 on Jan 21, 2018 19:09:53 GMT -5
I use almost exclusively coated lead with TiteGroup and set the crimp as tight as possible without removing the coating in a bullet puller. Seems to work well. I did some testing and those loads take about 30 trips on the recoil ride for a measurable bullet jump with my calipers. Perhaps I purchased an unusual batch; I've not even worked through one canister. My pistol does not cease functioning, but does show far more filth and grime than Unique or 2400, which are the only other two I have any experience with. Light loads are all that I've attempted using TiteGroup, so I'll try some heavier loads and see what difference that makes. If you post some data on your loads I'm happy to help, I burned around 8-9# of TiteGroup last year.
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Post by eddiesouthgate on Jan 21, 2018 20:51:04 GMT -5
Try 18-20 grains of 2400 with either one of your 240 grain bullets . 22 grains if you decide you like em' hot .
Eddie
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Post by batmann44 on Jan 21, 2018 20:53:55 GMT -5
I have the 50th Flattop .44M, I was under the impression that the grip size is the same except for the location pin. By the looks you “new” pistola, you have some work to do. Good luck
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Post by Burnston on Jan 21, 2018 21:08:24 GMT -5
I have the 50th Flattop .44M, I was under the impression that the grip size is the same except for the location pin. By the looks you “new” pistola, you have some work to do. Good luck The 50th Anniversary has the SBH frame but dropped the Dragoon size grip frame and replaced it with the XR3 (or Red?) I do not recall which of the two smaller frames replaced the Dragoon grip for that particular model, but the smaller grip on the larger frame wasn't ideal for me, which is why I prefer the OM, with it's smaller frame to match the XR3 grip.
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Post by 2 Dogs on Jan 22, 2018 0:25:35 GMT -5
Ben, first, thanks for asking. Don't worry, you aren't even close to wearing us out. Somebody has to do the asking, and somebody has to do the answering. Besides, even the old dogs can learn some new tricks from the good men on this forum!
I'm going to go through your good post and comment here and there and see if we can come to a reckoning. Kind of like Harry Hogg and Cole Trickle in Day's of Thunder where they had to "invent" a common language.
First, it helps if you let us know if you are talking about a "grip frame" or a "main frame". When you say Super Blackhawk frame, almost everybody thinks of the dragoon style grip frame with the square back trigger guard but in your report I believe you are discussing the "main frame"instead. So if that is the case, I will say that a 44 magnum on a XR3 grip frame starts getting pretty lively in the recoil department. With 300 grain bullets you start getting whacked in the knuckles. However, even more, if I am reading between the lines correctly, it is the ACTION of the New Model you didn't care for. Anyway, maybe you can clarify....
10 grains of Unique is a great all around load for almost every bullet you can think of in the 44 Magnum. There is no need to go full Magnum unless you really need to derail a Locomotive or some such. I would agree, you need to snug down your crimp a bit. Additionally, your crimp will be different for jacketed and lead bullets. But you will figure that out. The range. You have your own range. You have your own bailing wire. You even have your own rawhide. I ain't sure I am grasping this problem at all...
Let's talk about that Micro sight screw on that old Flattop guys. Keith wrote about the Flattop not having enough support in the mortise for the Micro rear as it was elevated. It's an easy mistake to make. And it could be a painful one. Thank goodness for guys like Rob Barnes! We can all learn from this one. Ruger has had some issues getting the right front sight to match the rear on various sixguns over the years. Sometimes you just need to change the front sight or go to a different bullet weight. But PLEASE, if you are in doubt, ask us!
At this point Ben, I have a question for YOU... did you let yourself get so distracted you forgot to check the muzzle for a lube star? Did you look down the barrel buddy? What did you see? And yes, the little screw in the base pin needs a corresponding hole in the bottom of the barrel to stop the pin from backing out. If you just tighten it up against the barrel then the pin gets in a bind and you don't need that. A hole in the bottom of the barrel lets the pin "float" like it should.
With your 1911, the crimp is more about keeping your ammunition from "collapsing" instead of growing. One of the guys suggested how you can modify your semi wadcutter bullet seater for round nose bullets and that method works fine. As an alternate, I just file mine flat. That will seat all the bullets I use and won't cut into any of them.
The tarp is a grand idea I use myself. Hint: use a old Ammo Can to keep 4 stout rocks in or other form or fashion of tie (stakes work too, and can come in handy if vampires prowl your area) down to keep your tarp from turning into an Oklahoma Prairie Sail.
I can't say for sure if Barnes is referring to cast "billets" or jacketed "billets" so I can't help you there. Good thing I don't need the screw tho...
A single stage press can be adjusted so it seats and crimps in a single step. But it takes some adjusting and that means trial and error. It helps if you make up a "dummy" and keep it if you will be using more than one style of bullet. Life is not right with no RCBS single stage press about but for high volume sixgun work you might outta start up a turret press fund or even better a Dillon press fund. Yup, they cost as much as a sixgun but the savings in time is far worth it. Besides, they can sometimes be found at a bargain. I'm sure with all the eyes and ears we have on here we might be able to locate one.
Alaskan 454 says: "I use TiteGroup in my competition revolvers because of how clean it burns. Like others mentioned, it may be crimp related. Possibly the bullet selection too. I've gone 2k or more rounds without cleaning in my revolvers with the same powder." I'm pretty sure I would PM that fella and ask him real nice and pretty please about his recipe....
Oddshooter says: "Thanks Alaskan for that second report on Titegroup. I use it and like it. I was about to go look at my range logs and the dirty column. I've not noticed any dirty myself on the titegroup. But I do like a tight crimp and I keep closer to max load than starting load. Both those help on keeping dirty to a minimum." This fella has "range logs".... Him I would definitely PM....
Testing Crimp with a bullet puller is a fantastic idea. I will include one in the box I got working for you Ben. Don't be using it to fix the fence or tack up wanted posters or any other ranch/cowboy stuff please....
There you go Buddy. That's about all dos cetavos get's ya!
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Post by kings6 on Jan 22, 2018 0:34:59 GMT -5
Billet correction made twin poodles! Oops, I mean 2 Dogs!
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Post by 2 Dogs on Jan 22, 2018 0:38:45 GMT -5
Billet correction made twin poodles! Oops, I mean 2 Dogs! LOL!!
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Odin
.327 Meteor
Posts: 971
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Post by Odin on Jan 22, 2018 0:44:38 GMT -5
...the little screw in the base pin needs a corresponding hole in the bottom of the barrel to stop the pin from backing out. If you just tighten it up against the barrel then the pin gets in a bind and you don't need that. A hole in the bottom of the barrel lets the pin "float" like it should... Not a hole, really, just a dimple. An extra hole in the barrel would lead to... well, let's just not go there...
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Post by kings6 on Jan 22, 2018 0:57:16 GMT -5
Odin is more of a wordsmith than I am and he is correct that a dimple or recess would be a better description versus hole which sounds like it is breaching the integrity of the internal surface of the barrel better known as the bore😊 The first guy screw up around this bunch of jokers doesn’t stand a CHANCE! They’ll stomp ya, romp ya and tromp ya then reach down and pick you back up with a grin and call you brother.
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