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Post by bradshaw on Aug 10, 2017 6:39:46 GMT -5
358156hp.... pigments vary in mineral composition. If actual pigments are used in powder coating, various reactions to heat with some chemical reactions may be expected. Metallic or other aspects in pigments might influence reaction to static electricity. A pigment itself might contribute to bore friction or fouling, although it may be difficult to verify. My introduction to Powder Coating by Jeff “Tank” Hoover and Dick Thompson immediately brought the pigment question to mind----it was not whether the bullets were pretty or ugly. So I thought the question of friction & abrasion was worth a look. Meanwhile, beside Tank’s elation at not handling greasy lead, my recognition of Powder Coating comes from the softening of lead alloy as the bullet is baked----the anneal----which occupies a place of honor among sixgunners who pursue deer. Contrary to some preaching, an athletic whitetail may go an incredible distance when wounded with a pencil hole. Whereas the same placement with a bullet that expands, even into a mild rivet, works to settle accounts.
Hard rifle bullets exhibit the same “wrong choice syndrome” on whitetails, punching a pencil hole that puts the game to flight. Two examples: the old Speer .358 250 Spitzer fired at a deer from the .35 Whelan, when the bullet was designed for the .358 Norma Mag. The early .338 Win Mag with 225 grain Trophy Bonded Bear Claw, which goes through a deer unaware it hit anything, was designed for animals in the elk to bear class.
Powder Coat has its place on the six gunner’s belt. David Bradshaw
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Post by magnumwheelman on Aug 10, 2017 7:07:34 GMT -5
the thought of pigment abrasion had come to mind with me as well... I'm assuming the white & quite possibly several of the "creamy" colors has Titanium Dioxide in them ( which I have quite a bit of experience with, in the food industry, where it has fallen from grace as a whitening agent )... & quite a few of the colors would have some sort of "rust" as a pigment... we know "aluminum rust" ( aluminum oxide ) would not be good added to a powder coat, unless fire lapping were your goal which begs the question, as a lubricant, perhaps the clear Polyester coatings may end up being the best... although not nearly as "pretty"
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Post by magnumwheelman on Aug 10, 2017 7:32:33 GMT -5
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Post by sixshot on Aug 10, 2017 14:00:09 GMT -5
When I was using the "shake & bake" method I used the air soft pellets because it did help in the coating process because of the added static electricity. Now that I only use the Hornady tumbler there's not need for the air soft pellets & I get a great coating. Some of the "flat" colors don't seem to bond as well, at least that's what I read, where as the gloss colors seem to work best. As mentioned I only use HF Red & Smoke's gloss black & see no reason change, they are working great & only tie up 2 of my tumbling tubs. I do need to see if there's any change in impact on the target because the other day I thought I noticed a change. Because I was having misfire problems at the time I didn't follow up but not that my son has corrected the problem I'll see if changing colors makes a change on the target. One last thing, try to figure out a way to get away from using the tweezers, that's a real pain guys! Just gently dump them in a collander & bake them. Also the Sil-Pat liners work great & they make some generic one's that only cost a few bucks & last for a very long time. Just dump the bullets on there & bake them, let them cool, shake the pan hard a few time & the bullets will usually come apart quite easily & you are ready to size. If you are going to quench, do it quickly, also size them quickly, don't wait 3-4 days or they will start to age harden. My preference is to run them on the soft side if accuracy is acceptable, especially for deer, antelope, small game, Utah fishermen, etc. A gas check is desirable with a soft bullet because you can lean on it for more speed & still get great results with out "skidding". Even without the gas check you can get very good velocity with powder coating, remember....the poor man's gas check!
Dick
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Post by tek4260 on Aug 10, 2017 16:09:26 GMT -5
I started out using a cheap Frankfort Arsenal vibratory polisher and Smokes powder. It worked great. I'm still puzzled why my Harbor Freight powder doesn't work. I may get another can of it just to see if somehow I got a bad batch. I'm not sure how it could be bad, but it refuses to stick to the bullets. I can run the polisher for an hour and still none sticks. Can dump the HF powder, put in the smokes blue with the same bullets and have a great coat of powder in 10 minutes.
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Post by bradshaw on Aug 10, 2017 20:46:03 GMT -5
Tank Hoover’s POWDER COAT process is designed to minimize mess & labor, so he can get on the the real work of shooting. May be time to dredge up Tank’s country simple recipe. David Bradshaw
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Post by bradshaw on Aug 10, 2017 21:08:06 GMT -5
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sal
.30 Stingray
Posts: 315
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Post by sal on Aug 11, 2017 1:49:57 GMT -5
Dick, I use the shake n bake method you showed me. I don't use pliers, I use Basic vinyl gloves. Cover glove with PC then just pick them up and place where you want them.
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Post by sixshot on Aug 11, 2017 12:34:42 GMT -5
Sal, you can do that but have you tried just dumping them gently into a collander & shaking off the excess paint? If you use a tumbler it seems to impact the paint, making it more durable & you can shake the collander quite hard without knocking off the powder except for the excess that you don't want on there anyway. You could also rig up a small container in your brass tumbler, say a small coffee can inside the tumbler, dump in some bullets, a couple table spoons of powder & spin it for 30-40 seconds with the lid on good & tight & your powder should impact better than the shake & bake method. Two or three plastic ribs epoxied into the coffee can would help a bunch. And a container with a screw on lid would work even better than a coffee can, plus I don't drink coffee!
I meant to say brass separator, the tub you separate your walnut or corn cob from your brass, not your brass tumbler!
Dick
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sal
.30 Stingray
Posts: 315
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Post by sal on Aug 11, 2017 13:34:46 GMT -5
Dick,I'll try the tumbler again,
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Post by sixshot on Aug 11, 2017 14:34:38 GMT -5
Sal, you may not be getting any tumbling action, just vibration, either that or you are using too much powder, I've done that & it won't work. The bullets have to be able to move a bit.
Dick
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Post by lscg on Aug 11, 2017 23:00:08 GMT -5
per Dick's advice I started out with my brass tumbler rather than the shake and bake method. sure is easy! I use powder that I got from Smoke over on the cast boolit forum. and I use a little wire strainer from Walmart to shake off the excess powder. dump them onto a baking sheet covered with nonstick foil and pop them into the toaster oven for 20 minutes. here's a few I did earlier this week.
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jdoc
.327 Meteor
Posts: 727
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Post by jdoc on Aug 17, 2017 12:17:30 GMT -5
Zane shared some of the bullets in his post with me. Super nice and can't wait to send some down range.
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